Dark wood, Dogs, Shaw and Engineered (Advice needed, quickly)
scotkight
10 years ago
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juno_barks
10 years agoRelated Discussions
Help!!!!! Need Advice Quickly..Pic Posted
Comments (17)It looks like you are getting prefinished wood. Read the manufacturer's recommendations for using it in a kitchen. If it is just a wood layer on top of a compressed wood product, then it is not supposed to be used in a wet area because the underlayer will warp if it gets wet (i.e., water seeps between the cracks--water doesn't have to be on the floor very long for that to happen) and the underlayer won't flatten out when it dried out. We have site finished hardwood floor and had a leak under our kitchen sink. Although the leak only left a 3'x2' puddle on the kitchen floor, the water got into the cracks and the warped area was really 12' x 3'. Since it was a solid quarter sawn oak floor, the wood flattened out when it dried (it took at least 6 months for that to happen), but if we did not have a solid wood floor we would have had to replace a big chunk of it. Good luck....See MoreLarge dog - real hardwood or engineered wood floor?
Comments (11)I think it comes down to the expectations you have for the appearance of the floor. Some people pay extra for hand scraped/beat up new floors. I paid less for new #1 common with knots, worm holes, and mineral streaks. If you want it to always look new, then what floorguy said, or tile would probably be best. If you don't mind a few dents and dings, then you need a finish that can be easily spot repaired. Examples of easily spot repaired finishes include oils, oil + varnish mixes, waxes, or wax + oil finishes. Straight oil (tung or boiled linseed oil) does not offer much surface protection. Oil + varnish offers reasonable surface protection (Waterlox). Waxed floors require periodic buffing. I don't know much about the wax/oil mixtures that come from Europe (OSMO Hardwax Oil). All of the oil-based finishes have the issue of more VOCS and slower dry/cure times than the water-based finishes. The only touch-up products I have seen for water-based finishes are the liquid acrylic mop on stuff. Search this forum for previous discussions about the product. Our 40 lb. indoor dog has scratched and dented our R&Q red oak floor in a few places, mostly from jumping up and down on the bed and her chair. It's not really that noticeable with all the grain. I will cover it up with another coat of Waterlox sometime down the road. Pigment-type stained floors are not easy to fix/match to undamaged areas. If you expect dings, then it is probably best to avoid stains. I don't have any experience with dyes as a colorant on floors or the repair issue. Finally, laminate floors do dent. Go to any retail store that has laminate and look at the floor from an angle to see the dents and display case "drag lines" in the plastic surface layer....See MoreWhat (engineered/solid) wood for this type of look (pics)?
Comments (11)Vinogirl, Heart Pine. I'm torn here because I've gone to houses and seen it finished on-site. I've also seen UA's Pine as well as Crescent Hardwood's Pine in the natural and Amber (darker) finish. Stunning. I know it will be slightly softer than oak but that's part of the character of heart pine. And heart pine is harder than regular pine. But it's not cheap. They do have engineered with relatively no sheen. Both the UA and Crescent Hardwood were 7" planks. I've gone to a fantastic local flooring place with my photos. The guy that's helping me pulled out the heart pine engineered as well as a beautiful brazilian walnut floor that was a bit less and much much harder. The third choice I liked that he pulled for me was Mannington Marrakech Hickory in a med/deep stain. My goal is to have a floor with character but something that won't overpower the space and that helps the space feel comfortable. I was happy with these three over everything I saw. Then I saw the site finished reclaimed heart pine and my heart stopped a little. If we only had unlimited funds!!...See Moreengineered wood or porcelain wood tile with cats?
Comments (47)I have cats (and they are getting on the elderly side). Half the flooring is engineered, the other half the original oak. All litter boxes sit on a throw rug - so far none are having accidents. That said, if we reached that point I would lay down some sort of vinyl/plastic/resin material underneath the throw rugs and then put the litter boxes on top of those two surfaces. And yes, CP, the floor was done by previous owners - evidently they didn't want to spend the time or money to repair/replace what must have been severly damaged original oak floors in the living area....See Morescotkight
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