Michelle - I feel your pain. I think I lost a total of 15 registered cultivars, mostly newer cultivars. I've been through it several times before, so it doesn't surprise me. I'm sure many of our member have had losses this year. Those of you who've been around for a few years will remember about three years ago when some of our Southern members lost hundreds grown in pots. It's much harder on those new to daylilies, who don't have that many. What bothers me more than the registered ones, is the 150 seedlings I lost. I had put a lot of planning, time and effort into those and it will take years to replace them. But people, this pity party for me must stop. REALLY! I've felt the love and appreciation and am most grateful. Plant growers of any kind have got to roll with punches Mother Nature throws us and move on. Debra

Thanks again for all the input, everyone. After sharing some jars from my test batch I can definitely say that I'm going with the low-sugar this year. My main reason for wanting it was simply the amount of sugar in the normal Ball recipes - I tend to give away quite a bit of what I make and the only complaint I've recieved, quite regularly, is that it's too sweet. The reduced sugar level definitely lets more of the fruit flavors shine through, without the overpowering taste of sugar. For reference, I used the recipe in the box, 4 cups black raspberry juice (from ~1.5 quarts of berries and enough water to come halfway up them in the pan) and 3 cups of sugar - Yeild was around 2.5 pints...I could have probably got some more, but I didn't realize how fast this stuff jels up. Normally, after finishing the rolling boil, I let it sit for about 2-3 minutes - this way the foam forms a kind of "skin" and is much easier to skim off - The low sugar set so quick that I lost nearly a quarter of a pint just in skimming th foam. ...Will be clearing out my freezer this week and making up some jelly - Should get around 10-12 pints each of black raspberry and blackberry with what's in there now, and yes, I will be firing up the water canner. Thinking about taking some down to the local farmer's market as well to see if the owners would be interested in selling any. -Thanks again for the info, I do appreciate the comments and concerns...

There are tons of posts on hood liners. This was a very useful thread IMHO: Range hood decision time Once you've perused this post more questions.

Given that your are under the IRC the solution to your problem is fairly easy. in your original post you stated that you want to move your sink about 15" to one side of where the existing sink is. You didn't state whether you were moving to the right or the left, but then that really doesn't matter anyway, except for the sake of illustration allow me to say we are moving to the right. If you are in fact moving to the left the procedure will be the same but in the opposite direction. We can use the simple triangle formula which states that the length of the hypotenuse of a triangle is equal to the square root of Side A squared plus side B squared. We are moving 15" horizontal along the wall from the existing fixture arm, so let us say "Side A" =15" and the center of the drain is approximately 12" forward from the wall so let us say "Side B"=12". L= the square root of (A squared + B squared) Where A = 15" and B= 12" L = the square root of (15 x 15 + 12 x 12) L= the square root of 225 + 144 L= the square root of 369 L=19.2" If we were certain that there is a vent behind the wall in the manner that i showed in the previous illustration this short length would be of no consequence, however since we don't know whether that vent exists we must then presume that the fixture arm in the wall may turn horizontal and run a short distance to the vent stack. Understanding that the codes are very specific in regards to the maximum length of the fixture arm from the trap weir to the vent we must then assume that an additional 19" could extend us beyond the allowable limit. Fortunately you are under the IRC, which allows us to use an AAV and no one will ever fault your for having additional venting so we may proceed without opening the wall. You stated that the existing fixture arm exits the wall, then turns down and back up. That in itself is a code violation for two reasons. 1. dropping down then back up creates a trap and the codes prohibit have two successive traps in series. 2. There must be an even 1/4" per foot downward slope from the trap weir to the vent. I would begin by cutting the existing fixture arm about 1-1/2" from the wall then attach the discharge end of a Wye on the fixture arm with the side opening of the Wye pointing in the direction of your new trap location. One the end of the Wye I would install a female thread adapter and a cleanout cap. i would then install a 1/16 street bend in the side opening of the Wye. (NOTE- A 1/16th street bend is a 22.5 degree sanitary elbow that has a female hub on one end and a male spigot on the other end.) Next cut about a 2" or 3" section of sched.40 PVC and insert one end into the hub on the 1/16th street bend. Position this Wye with the side opening pointing up and install a 18th street bend in the side opening of the second Wye.(The side opening of a Wye comes off at 45deg. adding the 1/8th street bend will then complete the 90deg upward turn. (Note-you must use a wye & 1/8 bend here because the code prohibits a Tee on a horizontal line.) Cut another 2" length of sched.40 PVC and insert it in the top of the 1/8th bend, then install a female thread adapter on the top end of that PVC nipple. You can now screw an AAV into that thread adapter. NOTE-With the Wye, 1/8th bend, PVC nipple and the thread adapter you should easily have the required 4" from the top of the fixture arm to the base of the AAV.) Now connect your trap to the sink tailpiece and direct the tailpiece of the trap towards your new fixture arm. You can then compute the final length from the opening of the second Wye to the position where your new Trap adapter will be. (When all is said and done, you may need to cut a bit off the end of the trap tailpiece. that is ok)