if wilsonart tap n' lock wont go together, it is one of 4 problems. installer has no idea how to install it factory defective materials installation is bowed (see #1 & #2) subfloor height differential exceeds/varies beyond manufacturer specified tolerance limitations (SEE #1) and this is something the installer MUST check for prior to the install. this product is NOT meant to be nailed ... EVER. Make them stop immediately and get someone who knows what they are doing in there. Here is the Wilsonart Tap 'n' Lock Installation Instructions ... please note where it specifically states: "... Wilsonart Classic, Estate Plus, and Red Label Flooring products are installed as floating floors. This means the flooring is not glued or nailed to the subfloor. Never nail Wilsonart Flooring to the subfloor ..."

purplepansies, of all the yellows in your recent mustard (?) kitchen the cab color is my favorite. I like it with the warm browns--good call. The other yellow items are hard to match using online photos, I know. What gave me the giggles is that you have chosen a fabric I really like, albeit in another colorway (mauvy gray leaves and red birds on natural linen--I think it's out of production now, sigh). I planned to use mine in a rather formal dining room, before the plan morphed out of control--long story. The birds make me smile. Obviously I like the playfulness of your design. I think your wicker chair is useful also--not only a color and texture but it appears to be comfortable in its back support. I often refer to chairs as 1-hr, 2-hr, and 3-hr dinner party chairs. This might be a 3-hr one. Like you, I chose cute yellow hardware. There are a number of these in yellow, aren't there? And they're hard to resist. Mine: Bloom by Anne at Home. Too small to really see in my olioboard...here they are big...

I have not seen it in person. so I'm just going off what I see on your blog and I like what I think the color is and the clean, light feel of it. The simplicity of it. Looks like it could go into a bit of that art deco poster you like. I am seeing white and a soft sage green -- is that right? I haven't looked at laminate in a long time and haven't considered the edges, but I'd probably do a rounded edge like it appears you have now -- simple but not squared. The squared edge looks more contemporary, so keep it softer and more classic. I'm no expert, but what I can see would make me think your kitchen is transitional which means (to me at least) a somewhat updated traditional that gives you some playing room ro be a bit eclectic. Just make sure everything works together and you have them together for a reason. I would consider using that mosaic as a liner and use a solid ceramic tile for the main part of your splash. Someone posted about their favorite thing being 23 cent subway tiles -- you could do those or a square tile (white or they may even have a light, soft green) with maybe 2 or 3 rows of the darker mosaic tile all the way around your kitchen -- maybe not using any more than the one small area but maybe getting more impact from it. Play up the feature you love and get the most out of it. What I read above was you like honed and matte surfaces and the first two laminates fit that. The last one is a 180 away from that. Just an observation. I think the metal ocean one would work too -- it's just not one I would gravitate towards.

Air leakage is overrated. Anything 0.06 or under is outstanding. When the wind blows 25mph per minute a 0.02 AI rating will leak 1.5 soda cans of air. In reality you will not even feel or notice this. So if the wind blows 5-10 mph like it normally does everyday you're going to leak what? A half a can of air? You will not feel or notice air leakage in Windows with numbers this close. It doesn't matter if it's a 0.01 or 0.06 lets be real here. It's like saying triple pane makes a difference in sound reduction. A 0.28 STC and 0.29 STC make no noticeable difference to human ears. If you want to notice a difference you will need laminated glass with a 0.38STC or higher... The difference between a 0.26 u-factor in a Fortis window compared to a 0.25 okna500 will mean basically nothing. What are you going to save over the course of an entire year? Maybe 5 dollars?