I agree with those who suggested to just go for the wood and put in throw rugs for the sound deadening. If you do go with carpet, definitely check with the manufacturer to see if they have an approved vacuum list. Many of them actually tell you not use Dyson on some products. You are on the right track looking at nylon and smartstrand for a high traffic area. Most pro tests I've seen indicate that Nylon is still top dog as far as durability and not crushing, but Smartstrand is very close. That said, smartstrand is generally easier to clean and more stain resistant. Nylon has the advantage in resisting soiling and if you go with a solution dyed nylon, you can match smartstrand in ease of cleaning. Solution dyed nylon for residential is not the most common yet, though it has been expanding in recent years but I don't think they have it available in nearly the same softness as your soft nylons and smartstrand products. I generally don't look for softness if I am looking at a high traffic area. Other considerations for high traffic - keep to a lowerpile cut or loop carpet. If cut pile, go with a lower pile frieze or textured. Color plays a huge part in hiding soil so look at your mid-tones in particular. Twist should be at least 5.5, 6 preferable, and should have fairly high density.

We did a reno 10 years ago that involved a large country kitchen and what was the master bedroom in an old farm house. The master bedroom was already fir floor and the kitchen had some layers of lino on it, the fellow doing the reno tore all of the old lino off and tried to sand off the old black tar like glue that held down the original lino. It was taking forever, so he took the fir floor up in the kitchen and turned it over and refinished the other side. It is a very high traffic area and we now have 2 corgis tearing around and it is starting to show some wear. But it is an old house and suits the era of the house. What was the master bedroom we took the wall part way back opening it up to our kitchen and made it our tv sitting area. Made it all very useful. The floors are not perfect but they suit the old house.

Julie ~ Have you looked into Wilsonart's laminates? There's a lot of very positive reviews on their product. I didn't want tile or hardwood because of the hardness on one's legs with tile, and I have hardwood everywhere else and wanted something different for the kitchen. I sent for a sample of the laminate "snap in" tile and I tried to destroy the sample with a screw driver and couldn't even leave a scratch. The cost for 280 sq.ft. was approx. $1400.

Let me clarify my experience for the less educated commenters. In my experience, many different species of wood are sold with the word "Mahogany" in the name. The "true mahogany" comes from genus Swietenia, and has about 3 species that are sold as "Honduran Mahogany" Janka hardness is about 800. That is not a very hard wood. Cherry, Oak, Walnut, and Maple are all harder than true mahogany. Trees of the Khaya and Afzelia genus are sold as "African Mahogany" This is the same hardness as true mahogany, pretty soft. There is a common Eucalyptus sold by the name of "Red Mahogany" This is much harder at over 2,000 Janka. But it is not Mahogany or even related to it in any way. Myroxylon is sold by the name "Santos Mahogany" This is also very hard, over 2,000 Janka. Again, this is not Mahogany. Then there is this awful junk sold by the various names "meranti" "luan", and "philippine mahogany". It is the hardness of Balsa wood. I have a good deal of experience making things out of all the above mentioned kinds of wood. I've also done plenty of finish work with Alder (Janka 590) and Sapele (Janka 1510). I recommend Sapele for your application. The common application where I would use Alder is for a rustic kind of finish. It looks good with a distressed or antiqued kind of finish. I do not think Alder is a good choice for your project.