I used a Valspar 2 part epoxy bought at lowes in may last house with great success. Took three gallons to do a two car garage. Admittedly I was only there for 5 years but it held up very well over that period. Only damage was due to furniture delivery guys dragging a palletized amoire with protruding nails that scratched down to the concrete. I always liked it due to being able to easily squegee out water/ice/slush/salt during the winter. I would basically squegee out the nasty mess, hose it down a little, squegee again, and it looked as good as new. Prep work just like painting walls seems to be the key to good adhesion, I used a degreaser to clean, allowed to dry, etched with muratic acid, rinsed, allowed to dry, and then painted. Took almost a week in total elapsed time basically started one weekend and finished the next.

Gray Wings & Faron Thanks for chiming in and the advice. Your posts came at the perfect time (right after we de-greased and scrubbed the floor with heavy brushes on our hands/knees going in circular motions, cross-wise, straight away, etc.). I soaked up the dirt & grime right away with a combination of shop towels and rags). I did read somewhere that if water was soaking in, there was good indication that any previous sealant was well-worn away and that a good soakable surface existed for paint to adhere to. This was my condition so I was encouraged while scrubbing and AFTER reading your posts. After the scrubbing and drying over-night, we patched one crack/gouge with paintable cement caulk and painted away. One coat was recommended but I ended up doing a second coat for color saturation. The soaking "in" seemed perfect and the drying time was half of what the label said. I would HIGHLY recommend this paint for anyone with a similar project. I waited the label recommended time anyway to recoat and it looks fabulous. I've started moving things back in and so- far-so-good. I'll start a new thread later in the week with a before and after. I also stucco'd and painted an accent wall which was a painter's challenge too but I had experience with that. You're advice on NOT to etch -- saved boat loads of time and mess so I appreciate it very much. Thank you!

I think I have the same siding as you - it looks like Hardi Board. Those nail holes look wrong to me. If those are on every piece of siding then the original installer didn't know what they were doing. Except in special situations, the nails should be covered by the piece of siding above. There should not be nails down low on the siding. Since those holes should not be there, I would think that filling them would be an extra step. FWIW my neighbor has the same siding and the installer caulked the seams between the boards - the vertical seams. It looks horrible because the caulk is a different texture than the siding so it sticks out. Caulking those holes would probably give you the same result - strange shiny dots on your siding. Having said that, giving water a path into the siding is not good either. But if the house is several years old and that has not been a problem, you are probably fine. On the soffit - I would have someone finish that area with an appropriate soffit material that will accept paint well and hide the 2x4s and plywood that are there now. No amount of paint is going to make that look good.

This is recycled from one of your previous threads, but I used part of the existing powder room for the kitchen, and the remainder for the mudroom closet. I made the island longer and gave you two choices of location for the MW--if you don't want a MW drawer, you could separate the island and table, with about 42" between them, and make the secondary prep space the main prep. The laundry/mudroom/powder room could be arranged like this: The matching mudroom closets could be omitted to combine the mudroom, laundry, and dog grooming room. The red wall and door are optional, in case you don't want to see the powder room door from the family room, and there is a pocket door between the garage entry vestibule and the mudroom, to hide the mess from guests.