Does anyone know how to fix a Sebo K3 canister vacuum that stopped suddenly while running and won't turn on? The cord is OK, because the power button lights green. The manual says there is a "manual reset" that happens if the machine overheats or is clogged or any number of other reasons. I have changed the bag and both filters, cleaned the brushroll, checked everywhere for clogs. The vacuum always feels quite hot the 3-4 times I've used it, but I have not seen the warning light go on (it is several years old, purchased by my MIL and recently given to me when she can no longer live independently).

For a second story, if you have a whole-house boiler already, I would probably just stick to straight a/c with an air handler. I say this because heat naturally rises, and having a secondary heat source, economically, doesn't sound like it would have a great payback on the second story. Do you have a thermostat for heat upstairs already, or just downstairs? If downstairs, upstairs should always naturally be warmer. The Carrier quote does not give you many options. The first option is a bare replacement, not even including a new indoor portion (just the coil inside). The second option is a complete Infinity system. The Infinity is a nice system, but by personal preference I tend to stay to the more simple systems (i.e., 13-15 SEER with variable speed indoor portion). The variable speed indoor unit can sometimes improve airflow to some rooms depending on present ductwork condition, and as you noted it also has a low fan-on setting (I think it comes from the factory like this but nevertheless it is an option for the installers to set). Depending on the thermostat you use, it has the ability to be configured to control (de)humidity (again, that's getting more fancy with controls). I like the American Standard quote (the equipment, that is) However it looks like this dealer too is just proposing a coil and not an actual air handler inside. Perhaps I'm confused as to what you have in the attic now (I'm assuming a fan coil/air handler - just a blower and a coil for a/c). When going to R-410A it is a good idea to flush the lineset/purge it with nitrogen. Surprisingly, some don't do this, and many times there won't be problems, but it is very good practice and any good company would know to do it or replace the lineset itself (which isn't necessary if proper size and in good condition). The second Carrier quote (most recent post) lists two good, reasonably priced options for a/c. With Carrier, those are the two units I'd look at (Comfort 24ACB330, Performance 24APA530). The Performance series unit is physically larger outside, if that makes a difference, since it's more efficient. Either of these units can be used with a variable speed indoor fan coil (model FV4BNF003/5). Let us know if you have any more questions.

Ionized, i understand that if all/most all the loads in my house were active at once and power went out, I would need a large generator (reportedly 15kw) to auto kick in and continue to power the whole house. Alternative 1 is for a smaller generator (reportedly 8kw) and an auto transfer switch and sub panel that will only power critical circuits. In my case that is not a cost effective option because of my main panel and 2 distant subpanel setup with critical circuits in all 3. Alternative 2 is a portable generator (reportedly 8kw) with a manual transfer switch. Power goes out and I manually shed non critical loads in my 3 panels (including AC) fireup the portable and power just the active loads (fridge, freezer, sump, etc.) Even with this setup one contractor says 8 kw is minimum, yet an electrical engineer colleague does just that (alt 2 whole house critical circuits only) with a 3.5kw. The only reason auto backup is being considered is because I have ample propane supply and my propane supplier will only plumb a dedicated generator. I like the propane idea for ease of fuel use, no gas storage or carb clogging with age plus less wear and tear on the engine. I could go gasoline portable for Alt 2 and not get the benefits of propane or convert the gasoline to propane. But the supplier will not plumb it unless its dedicated, hence the question of dedicating a portable to outside use under a cover/enclosure and thus what are the required setbacks. Lastly Alternative 3 is a modified Alt 2. Can I install a dedicated 8kw outside fed by propane but not run it with an auto transfer? Since its not a portable it makes my gas guy happy and he can connect. And when power is out, I manually shed loads in all 3 panels and powerup the dedicated, propane fed 8KW for critical circuits. I would likley need to exercise it manually if I overrode the auto setting but are there any other draw backs to manual operation (battery trickle charge, battery heater, signals between generator and manual switch I am not aware of , warranty, hour meter, low oil indicator, etc.? Thanks for reading through this mess.

If his little generic is like mine there's a 2A trickle charger on it and the unit runs about 20 minutes once a week. I hate to disillusion all you battery experts but there is enough time between attempts for the battery to recover a bit and sometimes it can take a bit to crank that generator over. This is NOT the same situation as trying to start your car with a failing battery. I doubt his propane has gone stale, it's not gasoline. I've been running on the same propane tank for nearly five years now. A low tank however, could cause some problems especially in colder weather. If the thing isn't reporting low coolant or some other alert the thing most likely timed out because it hadn't started after 30 seconds of cranking (or whatever his timeout is). It can indeed be the battery. It could also be something blocking the air intake (while there's a filter on the engine itself, there's also the air into the cabinet that could be jammed with leaves or grass clippings, though that would be pretty obvious. This post was edited by ronnatalie on Mon, Dec 23, 13 at 7:41