MrsGordo is right on. I just got through going through that process. From my experience, hardly anyone does any 1-time construction permanent loans anymore. I called around to about 8-9 local banks and a few internet based mortgage companies and all of the internet based places said, "We don't do one-time close, your best bet is a local bank." Well, all of the local banks said they don't do that anymore. So, I had to go with a separate interim construction loan, at that point...its just shopping the different rates/closing costs. It varied so much. Some banks charge a point, but if you use them for permanent they credit that back to you. Some of them told me flat out, if they can't get the permanent they don't want to mess with the interim (Since they don't make very much off the interim). The bank I wound up using was referred to me by my builder. He uses them, and has referred other clients to them and never has heard anything negative. I wound up going with that bank, and it really worked out well for me. They had the best rate, no points (which allows me the option of shopping the permanent), and also they have a relationship with my builder already. So he knows what they need, and they know he does quality work and finishes on time and in budget. My interim construction loan also encompassed the purchase of the lot. So based upon my total loan amount, the amount I put down paid off the lot and put some in the balance of our building account. Now, if we can just get some DRY WEATHER Q#$(#$@#$!!, we can actually start and i'll start making draws and paying the interest. So, i'm not sure how it'll work with you buying the lot so far in advance of building. I would call around to some local banks and get some ideas from them. Make lots of notes on who you talked to, the rate, any points charged, application fees, etc so you can look back on the big picture and see who has the best overall terms for your situation.

My recommendation is to shop, shop, shop for a rate and a plan. You obviously have access to the internet, so use it as a tool and see what the big boys have to offer. Our banks are offering 6.5% for construction and a little less for the mortgage. My credit union will go 5.75% on the construction loan and the current 30 year mortgage is 5.85%. I am located in MO. This one thing will make a world of difference to you for quite awhile. I've been told that Sally Mae is going to really start restricting who can borrow and how much. New borrowers are supposed to have a credit score of 740 to qualify and forget 100%; 97%; and even 95% loans. I know this isn't necessarily a bad thing, but it sure makes moving an existing house a little more challenging. Good luck to you in your search!!! Saftgeek

I am looking for a new slide in ceramic top kitchen stove. I've looked at them all; Bosch Integra, Kitchen Aid Architectural, and Kenmore Elite. Kenmore is loaded with features, has this great glass topped control panel, nice to keep clean and you don't have to bend over. I cook mostly for two people, don't need the fifth element, but like the porcelain coated oven racks. I do a lot of broiling so a good broil is very important to me, and Kenmore broil looks poorly built in comparison to the Bosch. Also the Kenmore construction doesn't compare to the Bosh or the Kitchen Aid (sharp corners, thin guage metal, warmer drawer is crappy in comparison to either Kitchen Aid or Bosh. Kenmore has big sale on and will save me $500. and no knobs. Kenmore does not have a meat probe. With the knobs up front (kitchen aid and Bosh), I don't have to bend over for the element controls, but will have to bend over for the overn controls. I love the finger touch glass covered element controls on kithcne aid, but kitchen aid has no large element. Bosh has a great expandalbe top element, a wonderful broil, and a fabulous warming drawer, and an accessible meat probe plug in. So I want a Bosh stove top,broiler and warming drawer, with Kitchen Aid element controls and Kenmore oven racks. So please help me with the trade off I have to make, and / or do I spend an extra $500 for quality or am I spending it simply so that I can turn my knobs on German Engineering? Please respond to the followng email; namely rkf@mts.net, because I am unlikely to find my way back to the news group. I will be forever indebted. Thanks in advance. bardocanuck

The mdf (AKA "furniture board") vs. plywood is an old argument around here. You can search it on this site and get a million or so hits, but how about an easy summary? First, definitions: Plywood - made from thin sheets of wood veneer layered so that the grain of each sheet is 90 degrees to the ones on either side. There are 8 recognized grades from sorta glued together with all sorts of defects (fine for some purposes) to really nice. Cabinets would use the top 2 grades. Generally an "upgrade," although many dispute that the upgrade involves any perceptible quality vs. an upgrade in cash outlay. mdf - made from wood fibers combined with wax and resin and formed under high heat and pressure. Doesn't have knot holes and other imperfections of plywood. Doesn't hold wood screws as well as wood, so other fasteners may be used. Often used for painted cabs since it doesn't have a wood grain showing and paints up well. "furniture board" - highest quality mdf, although not all manufacturers use the term. Any decent cabinets made of mdf will use this quality no matter what they call it. particle board - is like mdf except that instead of starting with wood fibers, it starts with wood chips and chunks that are waxed and resined together. Not suitable for cabinets. If any cabinets are actually made with this, you'd probably purchase them in a back alley for a "really good deal." I'd have said it's not used at all for cabs, except that I suspect the cabs in the kitchen of my nephew's newly flipped/newly purchased house. Some building people use the term loosely when they really mean mdf. wood vs. mdf crowns and baseboards - we used mdf for our crowns because they do look the same and cost about half as much. We used wood for our baseboards and door trim because they get bumped by passing feet and furniture. MDF molding strips are softer and will dent with bumping. So what should you do about the kitchen in your vacation house? Find cabinets that fit in your price range that you like the look of. With beadboard add-ons you need to keep an eye on what different lines consider an upgrade and what they would charge you for that. Big variability. Do be sure to check with local cabinet builders who may give you a better price for what you want than any of the pre-builts. Many people here have gone with Ikea cabs, and some of them don't order the Ikea doors, but instead order them from somewhere like Scherr's for a different look. A trip to one of the Big Box stores to look at what they offer may be in order. These stores also offer computer design services where they help you design a layout and then price out all the cabs needed for that design in whatever line(s) you're interested in. This is free, except for your time. Beware: some of the Big Box "designers" are excellent, often not. A few are terrible. Just so you know. One thing to avoid at this point is getting boxed into having to deal with one designer or shop. Before you know if you're comfortable with that person/shop, you need to see what the possibilities are out there.