Musty smell - no mold/water/mildew issues
j_mac
18 years ago
Featured Answer
Sort by:Oldest
Comments (14)
prettyphysicslady
18 years agolast modified: 9 years agomaryland_irisman
18 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
Newer home w/ musty smell - please help
Comments (12)I like the stand alone dehumidifers better than ones incorprated in to hvac system. When you place the dehumidiferes in the conditioned space they sense the RH in that space, many central dehumidifiers sense the RH in the area they are located in and do not dehumidify the conditioned space as well. Where are you located? Where are central units located? Have you talked to hvac company about adjusting dip switch settings? Many times they are installed with factory settings and need to be adjusted for your climate. ERV's are usually not for cold climates..that would be an HRV, so I wonder about your location. Also ERV's are for 'tight' houses..with less than .25 air changes per hour. If your house is not at this level of air tightness the ERV can bring in moisture adding to the dehumidification load of hvac. Was the house tested for air tightness with a blower door? To 'see' what is happening behind the walls and between floors of your home would require a thermal scan of your home. This will show you moisture intrustion sites and moisture in walls, ceilings and floors. IMO this will be the way to go to actually KNOW what is happening. Then whatever the IR scan shows will be on you to address. Around here (Louisiana) thermal scan (InfraRed) scans are used often when home owners and builders are seeking solutions. I've even seen them used in court cases. But hopefully...it won't come to that! best of luck....See MoreMold/Mildew Smell in Master Bath - Checked Everything!
Comments (6)"Could older hardware cause this type of smell?" Certainly not. The smell of mold/mildew is unique. You are smelling what it is. Now you need to: 1. Find the mold or mildew, and 2. Eliminate the cause. The cause is moisture. The place you will find the mold/ mildew is inside the walls around your shower stall and the floor under the shower pan. Just about any shower stall built in the early 1990's is going to have mold. The construction materials and methods commonly used during that era have been discontinued. Poly plastic was often used as a vapor barrier, and sometimes a dreaded "double vapor barrier" situation occurrs. Also it is common that gypsum board products, like green board drywall, were used rather than a cement board product such as hardibacker or a proper mortar bed. I would gut the bathroom shower stall. The home inspector's report recommending replacment of the fiberglass shower pan, is a gentle way of phrasing "you need to gut the shower" I've never just replaced the shower pan in a tile shower. By the time the shower pan is bad, the tile walls are also bad. The shower pan is more robust and water tight than any tile work done in 1993. Can you open the drywall on the back side of one of the shower stall walls? That would be a good way to look for mold and still be able to abort the demolition work if you do not find it....See MoreMildew smell with NO EVIDENCE OF WATER
Comments (5)This is typically a problem with single stage AC systems and "over sizing". To understand this, over sizing relates to the tonnage of your AC system and not the physical size. Sometimes seasonal changes can contribute to this problem. An air conditioner's main function is to remove humidity from the air, but the cooling attribute of the thermostat the system is controlled by "temperature". An Air Conditioner is naturally oversized automatically when OAT (outdoor temp) is lower than design. Design temperature can vary depending on location (this is the science part). So if your AC was sold to you by "up sizing" the system from what was originally installed you may never find a solution that truly works unless you put in the proper size of the equipment or increase the load or force the AC system to run longer. Realize these are blanket statement guesses. Without proper diagnosis there is truly no real way to know for sure. On the short end of this, it could just be a "perfect storm" in which the weather and the load on the house are in perfect harmony to cause the problem. You can test this by lowering the temp a few degrees when you notice the smell, force the AC to run longer. If the system is grossly over sized it likely will not help much....See MoreConcrete slab is larger than house - mold and mildew issues
Comments (6)Bottom of the siding should have a starter strip, not the undersill trim. Unfortunately, for some reason it looks like they did not start at the bottom with no full piece down there. Caulking the bottom of the wall behind the house wrap (or WRB) is desirable, but caulking the bottom between the siding and concrete is not. If water gets behind the siding in any scenario it needs somewhere to go. This is also the reason they put a WRB behind the siding. So what I see happening is water gets trapped in the undersill trim, then some goes behind and is stuck back there due to the caulking at the bottom. Repair: Take siding on bottom off move house wrap up, and address sheathing if needed. Replace areas if rotten. Use a waterproofing paint on the sheathing of the exposed areas followed by quality concrete caulking between the sheathing wall and the concrete. Reapply the housewrap and siding. Mildew smell more likely coming from somewhere else. Usually due to carpet on concrete. However it is possible the walls are getting water damage and possible mold/mildew in the wall cavity with what you have going on....See MoreSuzieSnowflake
18 years agolast modified: 9 years agoevesty
16 years agolast modified: 9 years agobillyo62
15 years agolast modified: 9 years agolkplatow
15 years agolast modified: 9 years agolkplatow
15 years agolast modified: 9 years agowinkwink
15 years agolast modified: 9 years agoLtw_hotmail_com
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agot_kiemaya_yahoo_com
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agonicolewalton64_yahoo_com
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agoG Krieger
2 years agojacqueline griffin
last year
Related Stories
HOUSEKEEPINGWhat's That Smell? What to Do About Stinky Furniture
Learn how to diagnose and treat pet and other furniture odors — and when to call in a pro
Full StoryDISASTER PREP & RECOVERYHow to Combat Mold in a Flooded House
Before you rebuild or restore your water-damaged home, take these steps to keep mold at bay
Full StoryHEALTHY HOMEHow to Keep Water Vapor From Ruining Your House and Your Health
We help you find out when it’s happening, what it means and how to fix it
Full StoryLIFEThe Top 5 Ways to Save Water at Home
Get on the fast track to preserving a valuable resource and saving money too with these smart, effective strategies
Full StoryHOUZZ TOURSHouzz Tour: Creative Design Moves Rescue an Island Cottage
Facing down mold and nicotine, two industrious Canadian designers transform an uninhabitable wreck into an artful getaway
Full StoryGREAT HOME PROJECTSHow to Bring Out Your Home’s Character With Trim
New project for a new year: Add moldings and baseboards to enhance architectural style and create visual interest
Full StoryDISASTER PREP & RECOVERYRemodeling After Water Damage: Tips From a Homeowner Who Did It
Learn the crucial steps and coping mechanisms that can help when flooding strikes your home
Full StoryHOUSEKEEPINGProtect Your House From Winter Water Damage
Avoid costly repairs by learning to spot potential problem areas before water damage is done
Full StoryHOUSEKEEPING10 Problems Your House May Be Trying to Show You
Ignore some of these signs and you may end up with major issues. We tell you which are normal and which are cause for concern
Full StoryMOVING5 Risks in Buying a Short-Sale Home — and How to Handle Them
Don’t let the lure of a great deal blind you to the hidden costs and issues in snagging a short-sale property
Full Story
conceptneeper_hotmail_com