Our bouncer is a wet/dry one with a bounce area and a slide. The only part that burns the grass is the part that holds water (that does not blow up) so literally a lining of plastic. It does not burn the grass under the bounce or slide areas. We have the pirate blaster from blast zone Canada. We also have direct sun all day long. I was wondering if I tarped underneath that part if it would help stop the burning of the grass or if filling it with water would stop this? I don't think it can really be avoided. Just to note: The grass does come back it basically only seems to burn the tips. I can send pictures if necessary.

There are many "ifs" in this situation. How large was the above ground pool and was it in the place for a long time and was it lifted in the fall, put back in the summer. What was the ground like before the pool was constructed...grass, bare ground, was it used heavily for foot traffic. The ground, if it was used as a lawn, chances are it had a reasonable amount of goodness to the soil...and grass can grow again without too much trouble. If it was bare ground, chances are it was neglected, the rain ran away from it, absorption did not happen very much and otherwise the area was more waste than grass. In this case, you will have to dig it up, add some organic matter, improve it to want to grow grass. If it was in an area where foot traffic was heavy, chances are the area of ground is heavily compacted. Again, it needs to be either aerated (by a machine) or dug up, improved and grass tried to grow. There are two methods of growing a lawn....put down sod, or seed. With seed, you should find out what type grass you have now in the outlining areas. How is that area growing. An overseeding might be thought of. Sod, while more expensive, is the fast way and it can be done NOW...you'll have a lawn that you can walk on in about two weeks. With seed, its too late....the soil temperature says seed wont germinate and you'll have to wait until spring. It can come down to how large is the area to be sodded. Sod pieces generally can be had for about $3.00 or less for ?? It depends on how large sod pieces come in your particular area....call up a sod provider and ask how much he charges and then plan on using the family car to go get it. A car's trunk can reasonably carry about 15 - 22, 25 sod pieces. Let's assume a sod piece is 2 ft by 6 feet...12 square feet. Just measure the area that needs repairing and figure how many sod pieces would be necessary....add a couple for insurance. The area should be given some new soil in any case...if you add some organic matter, dig up at least 6" - 8" down...and churn it in with a rented rototiller...use one that you can handle...don't need a big machine...as long as it can dig the tines in to start, the rest will follow. If you use peat moss to amend your soil, be sure to wet it first with hot water...peat moss will absorb warm water but will reject cold water; so the mixing in with the soil will be much easier if you sprinkle with hot water the peat before adding. If you use hay or straw as an amendment, be sure its OLD --new straw (hay) has seeds in it and it will give you a barnyard instead of a lawn if you use it fresh. To measure how much soil you might need to improve the ground there....measure the area...if it was a round pool, simple measure across the diameter, divide by 2...gives you the radius and then use the old standby...pi R squared. pi meaning 3.1428...X R..radius X itself. example: if the pool was 24' across...half is 12'...X 12 X pi....3.14 X 12 X 12...= approx 450 sq feet. If you were to put down 4" of topsoil or compost you would then multiply the square footage X 4 (inches) = 1800...which you multiply by 3...= 5400 and dvide by 1000...move the decimal 3 places to the left..giving you exactly 5.4 cubic yards of soil to purchase. If the pool area was less or you wish to use less soil just replace the figures but do the math the same way. If the pool was in rectangular form, just use the same method...length X width in feet, giving you square footage...times the depth of soil (in inches)...multiply by 3 and divide by 1000.... If the area is in pretty good shape, then maybe it doesn't need cultivating but can be reliably raked hard to raise furrows before putting down sod. In any case, look to the drainage so that when you grow grass it will not become a sotted mess....make sure the water rans away from the house and can easily be absorbed into the ground. The sod provider can give you instructions on what you must do to bring the sod along and don't get antsy and want to mow it too soon...its late now. sod can still be put down but let any mowing wait until spring....you mower should be just about ready to be put to bed for the winter anyway. But again SOD can still be put down even at this date.

Same exact problem. I bought mine 8 years ago. A year ago I called a service man, he got it to stop ($200) after several visits (replaced sensors, mother board, etc.), and less than a year later, I'm having issues again. Top of the line. I am replacing it. After reading everything I've read here AND talking to others, this is the worse appliance out there. I wish someone would do a class action law suit...count me in! I called another service man and he said he won't touch it. He told me I could find someone to fix it but if I were smart, get rid of it and never buy a Samsung refrigerator again. Of course I won't. I'm going to start shopping tomorrow. I just hope it holds up until I can buy another one (I have to ring the water build up from under the tray every few days). I hear there's a 6 week delivery wait and appliances are hard to get right now, refrigerators in particular...I'm not sure if this is true or not?

Maybe I was generous. At 10 FPS, inch and a half pipe will do between 60 and 65 GPM. Todays recommended maximum FPS is 10 on the return and 8 on the suction. These numbers are based on safety and friction loss.You can push higher volumes of water through but your friction loss will increase very quickly. A 1.5 HP Super Pump will exceed these velocities. If I was generous, the reduced flow numbers would dictate an even longer run time for his pump, increase his power consumption, shorten his motor life, etc... only adds to the benefit of having the high efficiency motor of an Intelliflo with it's ability to be dialed down to both reduce power consumption and reduce friction loss by running slower.