Everyone is mentioning epoxy grout or unsanded grout. What is the difference? Which is the best? Unsanded grout is the more conventional of the two. It's basically portland cement, pigment, and dry polymers to give it strength.it's the normal grout used in grout joints under 1/8" in size. Epoxy grout is just as the name implies. It's epoxy based, and is tough as nails. Epoxies make several claims. They claim to be more color fast than normal grout. They claim to be alot more stain resistant than normal grout. They claim to be much stronger than normal grout. In all three cases, the claims are valid. However, in residential installations, with the exception of maybe countertops, it's my feeling that epoxy grouts are bigtime overkill. Common sense in picking grout colors will go just as far. In addition, epoxy grouts are about 4 times as expensive as conventional grouts, and if you're having a pro do the installation, there's usually an upcharge for grouting with epoxy. Personally, depending on which epoxy, I'll charge 1.50 to 2.00 a foot more just for grouting with epoxy, because it's that much more difficult to use. One other thing to think about-- if you decide to go back to the white grout, you definitely don't want to use the epoxy. Because of the color of the epoxy resin, white epoxy grouts tend to take on a yellowish hue. Also, you talk about using hex tile-- the choice is then epoxy or SANDED grout. Otherwise you'll end up with a grouting nightmare, due to pin holes and shrinkage. Trust me on this.

I like the spray to be useable on both sides of the sink...Is it's reach long enough for both sides if it's off to the left or the right? For me that would answer that question. If the reach is long enough no matter where it's placed, I'd say that personally I use it more on the disposer side (cleaning up scraps) than the other. I like the clustered look as opposed to spreading out five differnt gadgets. To me that looks busy and unplanned. Since you're planning it :oP YOu shouldn't have that look. I'd want the main faucet to be able to reach both sides of the sink. We have a current set up here in the rental where the main faucet does not reach the disposal bowl terribly well (spills over the devider). It's annoying to no end! I would place that faucet in a location that will reach both bowls. That would be primary to me. From there, I'd decide the issue of the reach of the sprayer, and use that to do my final placements.

I am a fabricator. backsplash; some stones will not survive being cut down to a 2" wide piece; it will literally fall apart. Quartz and some stones are fine but regardless you'll probably have more backsplash seams with 2" material because 2" pieces are so fragile. "Negative reveal" = overhang. Reveal means some amount of the top flange of the sink is exposed. My shop does a very slight (1/16") overhang because it hides the caulk joint and eliminates the exposed rim that eventually gets beat up. The overhang generally goes from 1 - 1-1/2". More becomes an interference with drawer access and less than 1" makes it much more likely the joint between the countertop and cabinet is exposed. It's common for there to be a gap in some areas between the countertop and the cabinet. (cabinets usually aren't perfectly level and the backside of the granite is not perfectly flat.) The overhang masks the countertop/cabinet joint from casual observation. lots of ways to do "invisible" supports as per other posts. If they are as slight as some in the pics you might want the overhang rodded. Rodding is the process of embedding metal strips in the underside of the stone (like re-bar in concrete) so a big piece of stone doesn't go crashing to the floor in the event of a fracture. I am aware of 2 incidents where this happened; once when a teenage daughters football player boyfriend hopped up on to the counter and broke off the overhang. The other was a homeowner that came in with (2) 24 packs of beer and dropped them on to the counter.

Yes, stained concrete can look like that, but the bottom photo that looks so real is quite a bit of work with the staining because each “stone” has to be stained. This gets into artistry and not all concrete people are that patient. I did my back yard stamped concrete patio myself with the staining and I’ve had people that have to take a double take before they realize its just concrete. Just make sure you take off work for the time the concrete has to be treated and decide on your colors beforehand. There is another post on this site about people who installed bluestone and its flaking. One other thing, you have to seal the concrete several times after this process. See also: https://www.concretenetwork.com/concrete-patio/stone.html