I own a 36" Wolf DF and am one with porcelain issues. I love the burners with a great low heat and the oven is wonderful. I am looking to replace it though. After dickering with Wolf they have agreed to provide the part and $350 in labor. The problem is the labor starts at $800+ because they don't know what they will find and the time may vary depending on how fast the guys work. They will only guarantee the part one year. They used to replace ovens with this problem even when 4+ years old for a small fee. Most posters here and elsewhere have had more than one replacement and the replacements don't last as long as the one before. I don't want to risk inhaling or ingesting tiny glass shards when the liner starts to degrade. "I thought electric was a more consistent, and therefore better, option for baking/roasting? " "gas is better for roasting because of the moist heat. " Consistency has nothing to do with gas or electric, but bulk for thermal stabilization (providing radiant heat), air movement within the oven chamber(providing convective heat), placement of burners and accuracy of thermostat. Some companies seek to improve this by adding among other things,more insulation, more bulk, fan(s), a third and possibly a fourth element with computerized controls and and a thermostat with a narrower variance from the set temperature. When looking at humidity in an oven, you have to look past the immediate heat source and look at what happens with the oven and the cooking process. In general a gas oven has more ventilation through the oven chamber so the water that is a product of combustion is vented out along with more heat, so the heat is drier. Electric ovens are not ventilated as much so hold moisture from cooking. The moisture in the electric oven is beneficial the first half of baking breads and cakes because it allows the dough/batter to expand a little more, promotes starch gelatinization and allows better heat penetration of what you are baking. "Dry" is better the second half of the baking process. People seem to pay more attention and it makes more difference for bread. There are many ways people use steam for bread. "Dry" heat from a gas range or using the convection mode on an electric stove gives crispiness to a roast and may be better for some cookies, pies etc. External moisture has nothing to do with internal moisture of a roast. The amount of internal moisture is due to the temperature of the meat. Plus you have to pay a huge premium for dual fuel when in fact it does not cost the manufacture a lot more to make. You pay a premium for the additional elements, fans and the computers to make them run correctly. It would be up to the individual to decide what is huge and if it is worth it. They have fantastic 23k btu open burners with very even heat. No need for high maintenance tin lined French copper pots. What the heck does this mean??? If you have a burner with a flame pattern of 5-6 inches wide, if you use anything wider than 8 inches, you will benefit from a pan that has good heat conduction. Best is heavy gauge copper, lined in tin or stainless. Not everyone polishes. You can also get plied cookware with copper that goes in the dishwasher. Cheaper is aluminum available in several configurations including plied cookware. This is a very biased statement from a sealed burner owner that thinks dual stacking makes any meaningful difference. The purpose of dual stacked burners is to provide two separate burners each with its own range of heat. You would have to look at the range of BTU output for each burner to see the benefit. Rating by temperature is meaningless. I might have a BTU output of 325 and the temperature of what I am cooking could be 190 or 80 depending on the pan and what I am cooking. CC's 23k btu burners are capable of 145 degree simmer which is more than reasonable. Other than raw foodist, virtually no one needs or can use Wolf's 100 degree simmers. This is unbelievably presumptuous to pontificate about what other people should or should not find useful in their kitchen. I use low heat daily for -cooking a whole dinner or pot of soup in a LeCreuset pot using minimal energy -serving off the range, no worries about any scorching pastas, mashed potatoes etc -a short term sous-vide -anything that used to require a double boiler A few weeks ago I was making a syrup that had to be held hot while another step in the recipe was completed and even with the low simmer, it would not stop boiling. I could have "used" even lower heat. There is a whole big world of people that cook in many different ways. Wolf's sealed burners will not give you a decent stir-fry or Pittsburg steak while the CC will. Cooking is about the temperature of the cooking surface. The source of heat is just one component of this. A cook who understands how the properties of cookware work as well as how what you are cooking comes into play will be able to combine these things to come up with the right temps for the cooking surface on both high and low end. You can find blogs where cooks preheat cast iron to extremely high temps by low powered burners to cook pizza. Some restaurants cook a steak on a rock table side with no flame underneath. You just need to understand how to accumulate heat in your cooking surface. How are those pictures representative of the burners referenced? The CC is way off. I have cooked on many different open and sealed burners over 50 years. I agree with weissman that ease of cleaning burners depends on the build and also has a very subjective component. I think you have to avoid generalizations. Even the black enamel on the Dacor range we had was much more difficult to clean than the black on our current Wolf. This, an observation from my husband.

I think there are differences in brands even among electric convection ovens as well as gas convection ovens. They all are a little different in the way they roast/bake so unless you can try them out it is hard to compare. They will also vary according to the way the individual uses them. I really like my electric convection ovens and would get them again. They are two different brands and are each a little different. If you broil a lot then I would get all gas but if you bake large amounts and fill up the oven, the third convection element is supposed to keep the oven temp more even. I like the various modes and being able to direct the heat from top or bottom. I have baked in all kinds of ovens over a long time and you can make any of them work but it just depends on what you bake/roast/broil and what will make that easier.

weissman is correct. I've done a lot of reading on these ranges/ovens as far as the pros vs cons for each. There is danger issues to consider if one chooses gas as a fuel. Now that assumes the burners are all working and none of the gas eyelets in any of the burners are sans flame. But a reasonable cleaning ritual should prevent this. Seems as though sometimes when partially clogged, an eyelet may go flameless while surrounding eyelets spewing flames like a blow torch. One would think that un-burned gas escaping from any clogged eyelet would be ignited by the flame from a neighboring eyelet. Not so in all cases. I know I've had cooktop burners with a few eyelets not producing a flame while others in the circle were. But I never gave it any thought, and in more cases than not, a flame would appear after a while. I've noticed this especially after plopping the burner's eyelet ring in soapy dishwater for washing. Even after I thought they had thoroughly dried. This same phenom happens more readily in the oven and may never be undiscovered, as the oven is more subceptable to grease and fat,... viscous and baked. That's what I've learned in my research leading to my decision to settle on the GE Cafe AG. The comment about gas heat having a higher humidity level than the arid heat produced by electric heating elements is also true. And all the convection fans do is to blow around dry heat. Now there are some high-end DF ovens that introduce moisture (steam) into the mix. Can't remember the brand names and model#'s, but I do remember reading that. Shawn

lisa there may be an easier method but I do know the following works. 1. get the model,mdl number, and size of the furnace, heat pump, and evap coil. 2.go to the HP Directory on the AHRI site and locate your specific configuration. 3.the AHRI matching number will give you the HSPF eff number. 4.Take the HSPF number and divide by 3.3 this will give you a very close est of the COP. or better yet, ask Trane dealer for the matching AHRI number with the est COP. if he is worth his salt, it will take him a few minutes to provide these numbers. if he is unable to do this, send him packing. go to warmair.com and locate fuel comparison calculator. punch in the numbers with cost and efficiency and results will give you a good comparison. Trane is losing its competitiveness in dual fuel systems compared to Carrier. Look at Carrier's Performance 15 "H" model heat pump. It has better eff ratings in dual fuel systems than Trane's XL15i. IMO