>>It's interesting that there's crown molding on the columns and a lot of detail on the wall, but no crown in the kitchen. Is there crown molding elsewhere in the house?Oh my, have you hit on a sore subject. Crown molding was only included in the formal areas and master bedroom. They also crowned no sloped ceilings. Adding crown to other areas was $250 per "room". $250 now, not so much. 20yrs ago when we're building a house and running out out money, it was. Crowning just that hallway and the adjoining family room cost $500 because it counted as 2 "rooms" even though it was only as much crown as a bedroom; the exterior wall is sloped so the family room is really only 1/2 crowned (one wall not crowned and open on one side). I didn't crown the kitchen because the only wall that would have received crown is that single wall (because again, the outside wall is sloped), and it would have cost me $250. Don't think so. I did the crown in my office myself (come on -- a box) along with the sloped ceilings in the formal living room. If *I* can do it, why in the heck couldn't a carpenter? New cabinets will go up to the ceiling in the kitchen. They put tile crown where I cared in the master bath when it was remodeled. What I should have done was made them crown the hallway to the bedrooms just to punish them. It has so many compound angles it would make any carpenter cry.

My vote is to take out the top cabinets and go with the wall hood. No reason to hide it. Be proud of it and show it off.

Thanks, the Home Depot unit has a large flange (flashing) about 2" wide and a good looking spring door. In real cold weather I'd stuff something in the outside just as I do with the cloths dryer and tell my wife not to use unless we remove the block. I have never cut through an exterior wall but believe all there is, is the drywall on the inside, insulation between studs with the vapor barrier against the drywall (inside) and plywood sheathing with tar paper or other wrap on the outside, plus the clapboard siding. I believe it would be correct to remove enough siding to open the sheathing for the rectangular hole. Then to place the aluminum assembly through the hold with the flashing caulked (with an adhesive silicone caulk) around the hole under the assembly flashing. Then reinstall the siding to fit the assembly sticking though, with most of the flashing covered by the siding. Sound right?

Does this hood have an internal blower? (A) If not, I would recommend you purchase a 1000 CFM or greater nominal (zero static pressure) flow rate blower and decide whether to put it on an outside wall or on the roof, with a 10-inch duct between the hood and blower. The longer roof path may allow adding a silencer from Fantech. Selection will depend on house architecture and allocated cost. (B) If supplied with blower, duct either path as described above without the external blower or silencer. I am only guessing here, but suspect your existing wall vent will be too small for the blower you need to use so if you choose that direct option, some carpentry will be required. Please dredge through the many hood threads here to gain insight into what your goals are and what the requirements are for good ventilation. Also note that a make-up air (MUA) system will be needed in most locations.