The fan and light both work, but both of the indicators don't light? Did the lights both go out at exactly the same time? The more clear and precise you can be about describing the symptoms to the customer service person, the more likely you'll to get help. By phone is probably best. It's easy to check to see for yourself if all the wires are plugged into back of each switch. Just remove the front square grates and shine a flashlight in there. There are supposed to be three wires in each switch: A Black, a White, and a Blue. If they did both go out simultaneously, but the fan and light still both operate, the problem might be the white wires as they complete the circuits that allow the little blue leds to light up. If the problem is internal to the switches, and you're handy, have them send you a couple and you can install them yourself. It's not rocket science. Just make sure the stove is unplugged and that you be certain the wires are plugged into the new switch exactly like they were in your old one. The burners and front inner faceplate need to be removed. It looks to be all the same kind of Phillips screws. The switches pop out by pushing from behind while squeezing the top and bottom to release the plastic retainers. Once out in front, it's easy to unplug the three wires, plug them into the new switch in exactly the same locations, and simply click the switch back in place.

The confusion is in the word seasoning in this application. OK it's not a wok or a cast iron pan that needs to be properly seasoned but here's Bluestar's recommendation: This is from the BS web site..."Your ring grates, top grates and burner heads may darken over time with use. This is normal. TIP: To prevent your burners from darkening at an uneven rate, rotate the ring grate and top grates between more and less active burners. BURNER CLEANING Ring Grates and Top Grates TIP: Clean spills as soon as possible to prevent sticking and build up.  When burner is cool, remove the ring grate, top grate and center filler grate (30” models only).  Wash in hot, soapy water. Rinse well and dry thoroughly to prevent rusting.  Handle gently to prevent nicks/chips, which can lead to rusting TIP: If you have a nick or chip you can season the area to prevent rusting. Nicks or chips are not covered under warranty.  Put corn oil or other high smoke point oil on a paper towel and rub onto rusted area.  Wipe away excess oil and replace the part on the range. Do not submerge the burner grates in water for extended periods of time. Prolonged exposure to moisture may cause rusting.  For heavy soiling, use a commercially available oven cleaner. Follow the cleaner manufacturer’s instructions. Make sure the cleaning chemicals do not contact any stainless steel or painted surface on your appliance.  Reinstall grates in cooktop and make sure they are seated properly, and do not move unsteadily from side to side". So, BS says it's OK to hand wash or DW and they also use the word "season" so this is maybe why it's a bit confusing to some. It's not seasoning in the traditional sense but oil on these grates will keep them looking good over the life of the grates, IMHO. This isn't that different from keeping your backyard BBQ grates from rusting, same principle.... Here's a tutorial for cleaning, this is just informational.... cleaning your bluestar grates

What is a "local safety officer"? What do you mean "a bunch of back and forth" with your "local safety officer and Wolf"? What prompted you to use your CO meter to test the levels? They are employed by our BC safety Authority who are the regulators for all regulated work, gas and electrical and such. As a licensed gas fitter I hold my ticket through them and they are the final say when it comes to appliance safety. Permits and approvals for equipment go through them. I chatted at length with him about the stove and he did agree we can’t do anything because it meets ANSI standards being below 800ppm, but he did say he wouldn’t have it in his house. His advice to me was if Wolf won’t do anything to then adjust the burner input by under firing the appliance to bring the CO back inline. I went to Wolf with this information and they said ‘based on your requirements I don’t think Wolf products will be right for you, would you consider a buy back’. Checking CO is very common here in Canada especially when commissioning an appliance. I didn’t mention the CO alarm going off because it never went off, however it did show peak levels in the 15-19ppm range after cooking for a short period of time. Enough to make me concerned with a pregnant wife and 2 yr old. This is what will happen if you in a room where the CO levels are 800 ppm. The ANSI standards are referring to the CO levels in the air coming out of the range vent. 800 ppm air coming out of the vent does not translate to a room concentration of 800 ppm. Especially if you have your ventilation on. Now, if you were getting 250-300 ppm where the cook was standing, that indicates a concentration of way more than 800 ppm out of the vent, and thus a violation of ANSI standards. Either way, those readings were way too high and Wolf's response was poor. Yes, I agree, somewhat. The stove should never be operating at the ANSI levels, your house would build up to a dangerous level of CO over time ie. When cooking a turkey for hours. Our utility will actually shut down any gas range over 540ppm during normal operation. Also they shutdown any other appliance if its over 250ppm while operating. I agree we need ANSI standards but as new homes get built tighter and with less makeup air having a cooking appliance pumping 800ppm at the vent/flue is insane. Consider this regulation was put in place in 1926, buildings have changed considerably since then. So, what happened when you tried adjusting it? Was 250-300 ppm the lowest it would go? That would surprise me, I have adjusted several gas ranges and have usually been able to get them down to 30-40 ppm from as high as 500 ppm. I knew this question would pop up, but yes I went through the full range of what is reasonable on a brand new appliance. Below is what I went through, to try and reduce the CO: Tested inlet pressure, adjusted within 1”wc of manifold pressure. ‘Wolf recommends having inlet pressure within 1” for proper operation’ – no change Checked flip top regulator and it was set to natural gas Checked manifold pressure on stove it was at 5”wc Verified orifice was correct as per spec sheet supplied by Wolf Adjusted air shutter, no change was actually higher and this was the lowest I was able to get the stove to run at CO tests were done after 10-15 minutes of operation and the burners were warm Clocked meter to verify burner input is correct Verified no blockage in burner tube Verified all secondary air ports were free and clear House is still very drafty, so not a lack of air within the house The only thing I never did was under fire it, as I didn't want to go down that road on a brand new piece of equipment. Wolf blew me away with their service and willingness to make a customer happy. From a cooking standpoint however, it will be Bluestar for us.

I agree with @opaone. Bluestar makes some absolutely amazing gas burners. Really no comparison. But sealed burners are not where their strength lies. I would not buy those from Bluestar. And while they do make open burners in their RCS series, that does not appear to be an option for their 24" model. So, yes, I'd recommend going with the RNB244BV2 instead. That model also comes with the amazing infrared broiler that only Bluestar offers, and they somehow managed to make the oven cavity big enough to hold regular baking sheets. If you are restricted by the size of your kitchen, there is even more incentive to learn how to use your oven for most of your cooking. It can be a very effective tool for many dishes. Anything that slow cooks should go into the oven after starting it on the stove top. So, I am sure you would love working with this particular model. The only downside is price. IMHO, I'd still go for it, as it is an appliance that would get very heavy use in my kitchen. But it admittedly is a good chunk of change.