Thanks everyone. I didn't imagine folks would try to locate this file and check on their computers. that's very nice of everyone. I think people are finding the short guide (which is just a few pages). The manual is different (it's over 40 pages) - I will link it here: http://www.dvdflick.net/guide/guide_new.pdf This is what I can't get to print. Most other documents do print. I have had occasional trouble printing - but usually it's a pdf file that only Acrobat will read (or at least some pdf readers won't read them). had this experience with some Medicare/government documents. Saving to my hard drive doesn't help. Bob - I think you had the right document. I looked at properties as well - and sure enough, it says printing not allowed. This is really bizarre to me that printing is not allowed. That makes it very difficult to refer to the manual while you are actually working with the software. I see that the author wants me to ask permission to print - it's password protected. He's asked to be contacted via the forum - so I've just done that. Bob - thanks for the linux/ubuntu link. I have no idea what any of that means. I can download and burn to disc - but don't know what it would look like to boot into linux - never done it - don't know if I could figure it out. I think this is useful sometimes - but this isn't so urgent. So I will leave learning linux for another time when I'm not drowning in more pressing tech clean-ups. Thank you. Lynn.

I much prefer it and have it on all of my computers. Adobe has gotten so bloated and has so many patches constantly, do remember to check for updates on PDF xchange too though because they do update it regularly.

I am not an educator... I do HOW questions. I don't do WHY questions cause it takes a lot of typing and most of the WHY information is misunderstood and it always leads to more questions and my fingers get tired of typing... but I'll accommodate your questions. "What's the benefit of the twin tank?" For all the same reasons that the Kinetico salesperson said... soft water 24/7, slightly more efficient operation, regenerating with soft water = longer resin life, and you don't waste the calculated reserve hardness removal capacity that has to be set aside, and often waste, when you have a single resin tank softener. "Some say we need it others say no". Some don't know what they're doing and some don't know what they don't know. There are lots of people in water treatment that learned what they learned and haven't kept up with any advances in technology. It is said that you can't teach an old dog new tricks but the reality is that often you can't teach an old dog any tricks at all. "What are the baskets used for and why do we need them?" They are cheap and they keep the resin from getting up into the control valve and plugging it up. Not using top baskets is just plain stupid. You just want REAL:Fleck top baskets and not the Asian junk. "What's the benefit Of adding extra resin?" A twin resin tank softener with 2 cu ft of resin versus 1.5 cu ft in each tank would allow longer intervals between regenerations (fewer regenerations per year) and provide a higher flow rate at a minimal increase in price over a 1.5 cu ft twin. "Is the gravel bed under the resin and what are the benefits of having that?" Gravel under bed reduces pressure loss through the resin. Does that mean anything to you? "Kinetico said 120lbs of salt every six weeks and the Fleck guy said 200lbs every six weeks. That's a big difference. Could this be true?" I did the math for you a post or so ago and linked to Kinetico's spec sheet for you to check the math. Did you check the math? No matter how much a sales person wants things to change chemistry, physics, and arithmetic are the same for everyone on this planet regardless of the brand of softener. NUMBERS DON'T lie but sales people are not always as forthcoming as we hope they will be. $1725 for a Fleck 9100SXT Twin softener with 1.5 cu ft of resin in each tank, two top baskets, gravel under bed, and INSTALLATION is not a bad price. Just make sure you're getting quality resin and not that pacific rim junk. And now my fingers are really hurting and you have more detailed information than you need to make an informed decision. I have no dog in this fight and gain nothing, other than helping you get what you need, whatever you decide Let us know what you decide and how it works out for you. This post was edited by justalurker on Thu, Aug 1, 13 at 20:23

"....Also, don't expect to use a product in a manner it wasn't intended and expect it to last..." - xedos Kind of case in point here. The Kerdi Board web site does not show any floating bench examples or installation advice. I guess that means it is not in the scope of capabilities. Mortar or concrete nees to be about 1.5" thick to be able to withstand the force of the average person. I believe all pavers are 1.5"-2" thick. All bricks the same. Driveway pavers. The better bench is a form made from stainless steel that allows you to anchor the bench to the wall and create a custom paver in the shower that is later waterproofed and tiled. Kerdi Board is no where near the same. Can not be anchored the same. So in my opinion not an alternative to the Better Bench.