I rather agree with GC. You want the light to "land" on whatever you want to see (the primary exception usually being for indirect lighting used to lighten mass areas). In a kitchen you want the brightest portion to fall on your working areas -- a light that falls on your back would put that chopping knife in shadow, which isn't a very comfortable idea.

If it's an eat-in kitchen, himo, hanging lights over the table provide a more attractive ambience than floods. And being me, I also want a separate circuit to light the floor for cleaning. This all can add up to a high electrician's bill, but I think it's worth every penny!

I prefer mini-spots placed directly over: the counter areas mostly used for chopping, mixing, measuring; over the sink (even when the sink is under a window); and over the cooking elements. If you have odd corners or deep cabinets which will be in the dark -or shadowed; it's far more useful to small lights placed *inside* the cabinet so that it comes on when the door is opened or (least expensive method) battery minis which you can click on.

You might want to post this in Kitchens. I followed the advice of many and put my can lights right above the counter edge, so centered about 24" from the wall. Where there was a deeper floor to ceiling cabinet (fridge, double oven stack), I brought the can light there out further so the edge of the can trim was about 2" from where the crown would be. You need to know the depth of the crown as well as the total size of the can including trim.

I drew a scale drawing of the kitchen on graph paper, drew in the cabinets as well as any obstructions and then determined where everything should go. I eventually went with 3 pendants over the island, one short pendant over the sink and about 11 cans (plus under cabinet lighting). In addition to deep cabinets you need to account for things like your range hood. I didn't add one there because the hood has plenty of built in lighting and a can would have just lit up the hood since it sticks out so far.

Thank you ladies! I will post there too. Makes sense about the shadows.

I rarely use the cans in our kitchen. OTOH the under-cabinet lighting is on from dusk until we go to bed. I have the Juno Trak System 12 -- a strip into which you can insert as many bulbs as you want. This doesn't heat up like Halogen 'pucks', and it's *warm* lighting, not cold like some fluorescents.

Ceiling lights provide 'ambient lighting'. You need 'task lighting' where you will be working or eating. You need to bring the light source closer to YOU. I have pendant lights over my sink and table. The exhaust hood over the cooktop has lights.

I do have trouble seeing into my oven. The interior lights are poorly positioned. Sounds like Sue_36 solved that problem by positioning a ceiling flood. ???

While I won't comment on the placement of the lights
I would like to suggest that when recessed cans are
purchased to make sure that they are not only IC
(insulation contact) but ICAT (air tight)
it is less than $20 per contractors package
to get icat..and to retrofit to air tight standards
over $20 per light.

while recessed lights meet a certain lighting need.
they are open access for attic air, insulation particles
and in my area..humidity.

best of luck,