In the computer store, they told me that it was probably an IE 7 problem and that they "told" me not to get IE 7 and I went ahead and got it anyway (true) My feeling is that we are going to have to go to IE 7 eventually, so why not do it now. If you roll back to IE 6, you have to also go in and delete the update where you went to 7 (my understanding) So..I came home and sent that e-mail that had been sent to me back to myself. When I received it from myself, I was able to save it. They also got onto me about wanting to know how these things work...well, I "do" want to understand this stuff. They said, "You drive your car to town, don't you? Do you want to know just how it works?" Well, if something was wrong with it, I would want to know how it worked... The tech said he didn't have mshtml on his computer either...I'm going to now go and check files and folders and see if it is indeed on my computer....

Linked below is a short description of what kernel32.dll is, just so you know it's job. Regarding Ccleaner I would run it to remove instantly rather than in 'Analyse' mode. CCleaner has been around a while and is a well respected little gem so you would be at no risk but your peace of mind might be restored. Regarding the slowness perhaps run an online free scan and see what they find. You could use either BitDefender, Symantec, Housecall or any other of your choice. Do not fall for spending money if you use another program that will 'fix' your problems for $$$ Also perhaps go to PC Pitstop and run a tune up test. Click on any red or yellow flags at completion and read the comments. Again do not click where money is asked for. This test is free and will tell you how to fix problem areas it finds but will also offer to do it for a fee. Here is a link that might be useful: What is kernel32.dll?

You have a ton of questions and I will do my best to address them, I also have AADD so if I start to ramble and jump back and forth just overlook that :). We need to simplify this more because there are certain issues you can't change..... being on a slab and the weight issues. Any slab has to be reasonably flat and dry, but in your case it needs to be almost dead flat and dry. We are supposed to always check slabs for vapor emissions that can go unoticed when there is carpet over top that allows the slab to breath and release moisture without any problems. You have an 18yr. old glued down wood floor that has exhibited no problems, in my view that is as good an indicator one is going to get..... so we'll just say you are dry. I don't know how many sq.ft. is involved but it takes some space for an installer to check the slab for flatness and then take measures to correct it. Sometimes a low spot can be a few feet in diameter and with the feathering needed I may need 6', 8' or more to deal with it. If I don't have space I could be featuring up to a high spot underneath furniture. It is best to try and figure a way to go one room a time, clean it out, then go on to the next room. If you have your heart set on an engineered BC, then get it :), life is too short to fret over that as long as you know about this issue and are okay with it. On glued down floors the thickness does not really matter as much as opposed to floating. What does matter is the top wear layer thickness and using the right adhesive. A 3mm or 4mm thick wear layer is actually better in the long run as a 5mm thick . Going too thick with the wear layer can cause a phenomenon called "dry cupping" .... the NWFA and NOFMA are aware of this and it is being addressed. If you go with a glued down engineered wood floor and want to put on a sealer as "insurance" , then do it. In your case I would strongly consider using Stauf 960 which is a quality sealer and adhesive combined in one application. You pay alot more for the adhesive but you only have one labor issue. Imo you could also go with a floating floor. But to pull this off you must use a quality product and (here I go again)..... the concrete must be flat. There is a laminate out there that I have personally installed that is almost bullet proof. That would be Wilsonart , which is a high pressure laminate referred to as an HPL. Putting that down along with using their blue fusion glue in the joinery can take any weight you want to put on top of it. When I do that I recommend to the client upgrading the underlayment to a product Sound Solutions. You cannot walk on this type of install and tell that it floats. You could also go with a floating engineered wood... this is where thickness comes into play. I prefer to use nothing less than a 1/2" in thickness and a where the joints get glued up, or, choose a good reliable click-lock system like the valinge or Uniclic joinery systems. They both hold together well. The wood should also be waht is called balanced.... the top layer equals the bottom. You are very typical of alot of my clients. Quit stressing so much :).

Depending on the glass itself, the number of outlets and switches in the backsplash, accents, and the pattern, I'd say anywhere from about 700.00- 1200.00