Like kimmsr was asking, I was also wondering if you were actually making a lasagna bed. That process has many similarities to composting. You will likely gain more understanding by reading a little about lasagna gardening, and sheet composting (tons of stuff on the 'net). The way I sort of differentiate the two processes is this: Compost pile is to allow all organic materials to break down totally to a soil-like substance over time, and use that wonderful substance to amend exisiting soil or side-dress plants. The compost pile is usually a pile as described like 3x3x3 ft, or in a bin or box. The pile will decompose faster with an ideal mix of browns and greens (i.e. carbons and nitrogens), with optimal moisture, and with turning, but will also decompose (more slowly) if just left alone. On the other hand, lasagna beds are typically started with a layer of cardboard or newspaper to smother existing grass or weeds, often when creating a brand new garden bed, and then organic matter such as you described is added to several inches thick, some folks go to 18 inches high. You can then actually plant right in this organic matter, even if the matter is still fairly large and not decomposing -yet. Although most folks plant veggies, and perennials in there, I don't think the loose matter would support a large shrub or tree, for example. Over time, this matter composts in place and the height typically goes down quite a bit, the grass/weeds underneath die, and the cardbaord and newspaper decompose, and it ends up beinga lovely bed of good soil/humus. I agree the materials you are using are high in nitrogen (greens) and your area would benefit from the addition of shredded leaves or shredded paper or chipped twigs and branches. If you add manure and coffee, that is more nitrogen. I hope at least some of this info is helpful to you, and please feel free to ask other questions or share your experiences. It is never a bother. I enjoy the banter. Laurie in Mississippi

I have canning directions from a number of universities, Ball, Kerr, Presto, etc., dating back for over 20 years to the present. There have been many changes to the recommendations given by the various sources over the years. Example: pressure canning tomato juice in "Presto Cooker Canner, Directions and Recipes, 1978" lists no requirement for adding lemon juice or other acidification, and a recommended processing time for both pints and quarts is given as 15 lbs - 0 minutes. We've used that recipe over the years with no problems, but have since changed to other processing methods (processing time, acidification, pounds of pressure). It was only until a few years ago that we could find an "approved" method for preparing and canning vegetable tomato juice (V8?), but we've been canning quarts and 1/2 gallon jars of our own "V8", using our own directions which I've published here a number of years ago, for over 30 years! Jeez, did I get the nasty comments after posting that. And, the person that posted that the large canneries monitor the temperatures of each container in a batch, and conduct lab tests on products from each batch has certainly observed canneries other than the 10 or so I've visited. Getting back to recipes for half gallon jar recipes, I know it would be no big deal for a University that routinely conducts food safety testing and publishes "safe" recipes to conduct tests and provide recommendations for canning at least a limited number of recipes they standardize as to type and amount of each ingredient, etc. Heck, I can't believe that a great number of grad students haven't wanted to do just that!

I was making BBQ sauce. I have mostly Roma and Italia tomatoes, so I just wash them good and then cut them in half. I put them in the pans on low heat until they juiced up a bit (you can mush some too, to start) and once they get heating they juice up on their own. I added onion, celery seed and garlic, and then just let the mixture boil down. I think I let it boil for about an hour - it really was very mushy. Then I set up the KA with the food mill, and started ladleing the hot tomatoe mixture in - juice and all. I would do a bowl full, dump the bowl and then run the waste back through the mill a second time to get a bit more out. Then I'd toss that and start a next batch. I keep a large metal spoon and hand, and with each full bowl, I would take off the clear plastic cover and use the spoon to scrape the pulp off the seive. That kept it from plugged up and I did the whole batch without having to clean it. When I'm done, I use the garden spray nozel to blow the spiral clean. I also spray into the strainer and use the spoon to scrape the pulp clean - keep at it until it's all gone. My kitchen spayer does not have enough power to do an adequate job. I use to hate cleaning that thing, but now it's pretty easy. But I cheat as my garden hose spayer is in my summer kitchen. My KA has been spending a lot of time out there lately too (it's in the glass case)

Red: Initially, I was thinking of doing it in time for Thanksgiving, but couldn't get everything together in time, then since Johna so kindly offered me her fabric, I had to make use of it--so we can all blame Johna I'm in the midst of this project two weeks before Christmas. JK!! :) I glad you are enjoying the detailed photos. I wanted to document it all as sometimes people just see the before and after, but the during photos I find the most educational for people considering a similar project--plus let's me know if I'm on the right track. I think this is the most challenging application I've done so far with RAF. I did my drum tables first and they turned out beautiful, but these are much more distressed. It's a tough call what to do as I'm worried if I scrub too much I'll rub the existing finish off--which I think I may have done a bit in the photos I posted above as I don't remember it looking quite that worn before I started. But, the shield area are all quite dark--patina or dirt?? Who knows? I'm finding there I can scrub harder, but that area is still darker than the rest. Perhaps that is all the patina? I'm wondering if the wood/finish is sensitive to sun as my tables leaves are also quite a bit darker--can't even think about doing the table right now--summer project for sure since I'm freezing my b*tt off in the garage. For all this work, I'd say $50 per chair is pretty good. I'm finding it takes me one hour per chair to do RAF, and another hour per seat to remove and I've not started the reupholstery yet. One good thing is that the original upholsterer marked a center line on the seat bottoms where I noticed he then used to line up the stripes so they went even from top to bottom plus he used the same stripe for the centers of all the chairs. I'm going to do mine the same. For me (personally), I find a kinship with the original craftsman when I work on this furniture and can more fully appreciate all of the nuances that went into the construction--which I think is probably getting to be a lost art.