"No, I don't fertilize at all". Your plant is suffering a severe nutritional deficiency, as evidenced by its advanced chlorosis (serious yellowing). That will only get worse with time as the deficiencies become more serious, then be on the look-out for shedding of leaves as the plant robs older foliage of nutrients to fuel new extension growth (longer branches). May I suggest you purchase a small container of Foliage-Pro 9-3-6 for your plants? It will serve them very well, and fill all the plants nutritional needs from a single package. It doesn't get easier than that. Using it, you can make a gallon of solution for less than $.02 (2 cents). If there is anything you're wondering about fertilizing, or why I suggest this product, just ask. Container gardeners cannot rightly expect the grow medium to provide for the plant's nutritional requirements. It just won't happen, even if the grow medium's packaging suggest the medium holds enough fertilizer to supply the plant for 6 months, it will not contain near enough product to prevent deficiencies. It will make a very significant difference in your ability to keep your plants healthy. It doesn't sound at all like you repotted. A repot includes bare-rooting, pruning of heavy (thick) roots, and a complete change of grow medium. The object of repotting is to entirely eliminate all limitations associated with root congestion. Potting up, might or might not include a cursory stab at trimming a few roots at the perimeter of the root mass, then bumping the pot up to one which holds a little more medium. It represents a half measure which ensures the limitations imposed by root congestion in the center of the root mass will remain interminably or until someone actually gets their hands in the middle of the root mass to correct the congestion. You can tell if your plant needs a full repot by separating the plant from the pot. If the root/soil mass remains intact, your plant would benefit from a repot. Tight roots can easily sap a huge fraction of a plant's potential in terms of growth, vitality, and eye appeal. It's not uncommon for growers of rootbound plants to be sacrificing more than 90% of their plant's growth potential because of tight roots. If you'll try to find some time to read it, this Overview of Good Growing Habits should prove very helpful. Al

Your contractor was too aggressive with the buffing. They sanded through the Nordicseal down to bare wood. Nordicseal does not require a mechanical abrasion. You can apply the following coat without worry-ing about adhesion failure as long as is within the recommended 48 hours. A mechanical abrasion is only needed after 48 hours of drying or to knock down raised grains. Abrasion should be done lightly to avoid sanding through the finish. Best way to fix the issues you have is to redo the area and make proper adjustments to their process or redo entire project with a different product, due to their skill level.

We have to see what the space is like on the inside. You may be able to have a recessed landing inside for 7 inches, or two steps down inside for 14 inches of drop. Then whatever is left can be a low platform or raised walkway outside. A more outside option is to build a retaining wall at the fence along the entire length and have steps at each end. This avoids a ramp. The remaining alternative is to relocate the door to a different side of the structure. The next choice is to eliminate the door. I think that covers about everything.

You can purchase from LG the matching pedestals to raise the machines. You wouldn't be able to use the drawer in the pedestals, it would just raise the units. Or make a base out of wood...something that would fit inside the basin. You would have to make it strong and solid to hold hundreds of pounds and withstand the spin cycle shaking. I also found an appliance stand that can raise the machines up 4.1 to 5.1 inches.