Bill--yes, I'm talking about glass block. And I have no clue if it was waterproofed. I can see (after removing some of the molding around the bottom) that there is some sort of white square pan (maybe with an inch of lip) under it. The corner where the glass blocks meet is where it's leaking, and the little pan thing is holding it in. When I wick away moisture with a paper towel or something, more water comes in. So I'm assuming something wasn't waterproofed or sealed or whatever. I'm gonna call the tile guy tomorrow that did our floor tile last year and see if he has any clue. computerklutz--thanks for the info. I'll definitely check that one out.

If you want to be ready...call your town building office. Ask what version of the IRC code they are using. The code is updated every three years, so it might be 2012, 2009, or the 2006 version, etc. To a certain extent it doesn't matter, because the applicable section of code hasn't changed in quite a few years. But you want to avoid showing someone a 2012 code reference when your town still uses 2006. Even if the verbiage is the same. Your goal is to eliminate wiggle room. Go to this website. Click on the appropriate version of the code. Click on Chapter 27 - Plumbing Fixtures Click on Section 2709 - Shower Receptors Scroll down to read the text. Sections that could be of concern to you are: P2709.2.1 PVC sheets. Plasticized polyvinyl chloride (PVC) sheet shall meet the requirements of ASTM D 4551. Sheets shall be joined by solvent welding in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. That patch in your membrane? You want to make sure is was solvent welded per the manufacturer's instructions with a proper PVC sheet cement, and not stuck together with the red stuff which might be RedGard waterproofing membrane. P2709.3 Installation. Lining materials shall be sloped one-fourth unit vertical in 12 units horizontal (2-percent slope) to weep holes in the subdrain by means of a smooth, solidly formed subbase, shall be properly recessed and fastened to approved backing so as not to occupy the space required for the wall covering, and shall not be nailed or perforated at any point less than 1 inch (25.4 mm) above the finished threshold. 2709.3 specifies that the membrane or the lining material itself needs to be pitched to the drain at the rate of 1/4" per foot of run. Yours is not pitched, it's flat on the subfloor. It specifies that the base under the membrane needs to be smooth and solid so moisture that gets below the tile can flow to the drain's weep holes. You wrote that the base around your drain appears to be swollen/raised up, soft, and spongy. If that's the case, your membrane needs to come up and the base needs to be redone. Do NOT reuse the old membrane. And the last reference: P2709.4 Receptor drains. An approved flanged drain shall be installed with shower subpans or linings. The flange shall be placed flush with the subbase and be equipped with a clamping ring or other device to make a water-tight connection between the lining and the drain. The flange shall have weep holes into the drain. Your weep holes are clogged with RedGard pookey. No good. The weep holes need to be open so moisture in the mud bed can flow through them and escape into the drain. A flat liner with no weep holes? Your mud bed will saturate with water and with it unable to drain, it can get nasty. My opinion? Neither your inspector nor the crew that built the shower can waffle if you can cite and show them the applicable code. Code is simply considered the minimum standard for residential construction. Not that the following will occur, but If you went to small claims court, the code will be your best evidence that the crew failed to construct the shower using the minimum standards for construction. Take photos, save emails, document the conversations by writing notes after you converse. Hope that helps. Good luck.

Call a professional tile contractor now and ask for a consult. Is the ceiling below it finished? If so, open it up about 2 ft. radius around the leak area as the damage there will need to be inspected as well. You likely have a failed shower pan which requires that the shower be torn out and completely rebuilt. As cpartist mentioned, grout has nothing to do with it. DO NOT use the shower now as it will only contribute to further potential of damage underneath. Sorry you are dealing with this. It is a major issue and really requires an onsite consult by a real professional.

I have a shower pan in my bathroom and a tiled floor in my girls' hall bath. I like the shower pan better: - It is solid and even underfoot. The tile is grouted, and the tiles around the round drain are a little uneven. The pan is going to be perfect, whereas the tile is subject to the installer's skill, and no tile with a round drain is going to be perfect. - The slope of the pan is ideal, whereas the tiled floor could have been sloped a little more. - The pan is easier to clean. - A pan will have a longer lifespan, and if it develops a problem you'll be able to see it. On the other hand, pans are only available for standard sized showers -- and yours may or may not be standard.