Well I think I've finally made my decision for what to buy. (lol - Got about 1 more week before I need order bulbs so a change is always possible, but not likely.) I've been reading up on aquarium lighting. No disrespect to the many knowledgeable people within the gardening online community, but on the whole, the aquarium lighting community is way more sophisticated than the terrestrial plant lighting community. The sales market is pretty much like the plant market, doesn't provide much data and prices of bulbs similar but a little cheaper. But the user community never talks about lumens; they talk in terms of PPFD, which we know is the best photosynthesis related unit of light measurement. I'm going to start a new thread about the great data you can get through the aquarium community and raise the question of why can't the land gardeners do the same. I'll leave my discussion of their data to the new thread so let's meet there if you interested in that. Aquarium folks like high color temps, so for HID, they use metal halides, probe and start. So you can find lots of great info on MH but essentially none on HPS or conversion bulbs. Some aquarium experts have generated spectral data for 900+ bulbs and it can be accessed through a site I'm naming over in the new thread. They have also written bulb comparison articles based on the same data. Based on their data I've decided to get two EVC (brand) 400W 10000K probe start metal halide bulbs ($57 ea), which run optimally on a M59 type ballast. The EVC bulb gets a very good PPFD (205 umol/m2/s) and a broad spectrum on the blue end (remember I'm focusing on vegetative growth). I'm going to get Magnetek M59 ballast kits ($83ea) because that was the one used for the testing of that bulb, although several folks said any ol' m59 should work fine. I'll gut one of my Sun System I housings and install a new ballast kit. Since probe start doesn't require an ignitor, things will be easier for me as a very novice electrical guy. I could have gotten slightly higher PPFD's with a few other bulbs but you had to start getting into HQI ballasts which cost a lot more. The second EVC bulb & ballast I'm going to install in my Sun System II fixture (self-contained). Thought about getting a 250W bulb instead of second 400w but decided against that. If I was going to get a 250w I would have gone with the XM 250w 10000K probe start MH and a M58 ballast. I will be starting seeds all along so by April my plant area might be too big for the two 400'ers to cover. If so, I'll kick in my spare 600W Super Hortilux system to get me to frost free outdoor conditions. Might even do that anyways if some plants look like they would benefit by more red light. If you match up the spectral curves of the EVC MH and the Hortilux Super HPS, you'd see that the combined light makes for a decent full spectrum although a bit weak in the desirable 640 nm peak area. Other HPS bulbs could do better I'm sure. A combo with the Philips Mastercolor 400w CMH HPS-retro might be a really nice full spectrum. I know the MH bulbs have shorter lifes and are less PAR/watt efficient than HPS, but that is just the cost of business to do what I want to do. If in the future suitable 600W HPS S106 compatible bulbs come along, I can put my old ballasts back in. I stopped considering the reg terrestrial plant-light bulbs because I could not get good data on them. I have more comments along that line which I'm going note in the new thread.

Here's my latest attempt. Uninstalled the software everywhere I could find it. Did an Error Check and then a defrag. Rebooted. Downloaded the software again. Disconnected the printer and reconnected it accoriding to instructions on the Quck Start poster that came with my printer. After installation, I did a manual test page, which printed out fine. I made sure the printer is listed as the default. But when I tried yet again to print from a computer file, yet again nothing happened. If I had a cd, I don't now. That's strange because I have the cd for my scanner,which is older than my printer. I also have cd's that came with my first computer, years ago. But no printer cd. There is still an explanation in front of the Printer Port in the DM, and the printer is still not listed there. The link you gave, grandms, didn't help, unfortunately. I will go to the hp site to locate the live person when I have the time to devote to it. I've spent so much time on this, my RL is slipping, and I have to catch up. Thanks to everyone who has tried so hard to help me. If any more ideas occur to anyone, just post it. I'll be checking back here, as I always do. I love this site. Dee

Owbist is correct. I have not connected the PC in any form or fashion to the printer (or vice-versa). I have not tried to run the printer's installation CD on the PC yet. Windows has no idea that the printer exists and has no way to communicate with it. There is no wired or wireless communication between them. I am literally at the beginning. Powered the unit and that was it... The set up or initialization of the printer requires connecting the electric wire to the wall, then to the printer and turning the printer 'on'. No CD. No wires connected to the PC. Once it had power, I pressed the Power Button. Once turned 'on' for the very first time, the printer then asked questions. The first question was 'which language to use', and I fatfingered that one. As soon as I did that, the set up instructions that were being displayed on the printer's control panel or console turned into Chinese. Attempts to correct that by pressing here and there in the printer console did not improve/correct things. Since the console's screen looks different than it used to when the languages were listed, my clicking of buttons in the console moved forward the set up to other questions but I have no idea what the current display in Chinese means.... So to summarize, my problem is literally with the printer. There is no link up between the printer and my PC yet; I never got far enough with the printer initialization steps. The printer's control panel (I call it a console) is about 1" by 1.5", and is located on the printer itself). It is touch sensitive like a smaller smartphone screen. As such, it is impossible to use my PC to copy/paste anything. And messing with Windows would accomplish nothing in the printer. ;o(

It sure does sound like a feed problem. As I recall from the last time I opened up a printer, there are two types of roller. I will call them guide and feed. The feed rollers are the ones than develop traction with the paper to move it. If you can locate them, and they are rubber they can be cleaned with denatured alcohol. Being "mechanically inclined" I wouldn't hesitate to dismantle the printer as much as needed. As you reported a basic replacement is cheap. A month or so a go I purchased a HP C4680 AIO from HP delivered for $79.00 plus tax. It replaced a HP F380 AIO. DA