@AndrewK I wish I could offer some significant help, Andrew. However you are way ahead of us on getting your head around what is needed. Thanks for uploading bigger images. I still find it hard to see your floor plan (not liking Houzz for image posting). Your quote does seem reasonable, based on a few low voltage quotes we received (our plans were less involved, but for many items we were quoted higher than you -- atlas that is typical in Canada). Have you looked over the thread called "Things that get forgotten". I believe it is back on page one of the building a new home forum. It has many important reminders to get in place before the walls are closed up (including some on wiring and a few on home automation). Let me know if you have found any other online sites helpful in your quest on seeking info on home automation. @amoopen1: Can you elaborate more on your advice. I am trying to learn what I can on pre-wiring for future needs. For example can you explain in more detail what you meant by: "I have learned from many different forums that you can't have enough Cat6 drops. My plan is to run 2-3 drops at each TV location in addition to the coax". AND "The easiest way to have full control with minimal switches is to panelize the high voltage for the lights". All: I am very interested in what others' have learned about lighting scene controls. We have planned some very nice, multi-layered lighting. I have read way too much on designing lighting, and know that those light scene controls would really allow us to maximize the use of all of our lighting to the best effect. Unfortunately, the world of lighting controls seems very complex and costly. Carol

You'll need to get power to the cameras and also be concerned about whether it will be convenient to place the receiver where it will pick up a good signal from all cameras. Why not go with a hard wired system while you're still in construction. JM$.02W

There are lots of technologies: X10, Insteon, Z-wave, UPB. Most of these use some form of wireless technology. I'm not sure I'd want to do a hardwired system. You really need to plan really well. If you have good vision to know where you want controls and remote switches, I guess it has benefits. I don't expect to know how we will use lighting controls until we are living in the house. Do I want to be able to turn lights off from my smartphone in bed. Dim them. Close the garage door. All questions I think you have to be living in the house to learn the answer. I plan on doing standard switches and replace them later with smart switches and controls. Hardwiring also binds you to that company. Our family got an Amazon Echo for Christmas. This thing has great home automation possibilities. It's a voice activated device (similar to smartphone Siri) that can be connected to a smart home. Say "Alexa, turn living room lights on" and voila they are turned on. Home automation can be overwhelming. So many possibilities and decisions. My plan is to pull wire and figure it out later. CAT5 is cheap by the box. Pull plenty of cable. A cable to a blank plate for a future audio distribution control or alarm panel. Pull speaker wire to each room ceiling, mark it and let sheetrockers do their thing and I can cut speakers later. Once the house is built and we are living in it, I'll research switches and controllers and pick a technology and replace the switches. Read that document. It has LOTS of ideas. Such as running a dedicated circuit to a home theatre or an exercise room to power treadmills etc. eg: Interesting Electrical Options These are items that you might want to consider in preparation for future projects. Some are not really HA/HT related, but just nice to have. Of course, making your home more enjoyable is the reason for HA, so maybe they are HA related. Holiday lighting Put switched outlets under the eaves and in a few places at ground level around the outside of the house for decoration. If you have a large Christmas tree, or use lots of lights, consider a dedicated circuit for it. If you have a large room, also consider putting receptacles in the middle in the floor. These can provide power for a tree or lamps in the middle of the room, without having to run extension cords. Make sure there is an outlet (preferably switched) near the front door for a wreath, or similar lighted options. Be sure to include spare outlets in attics for an ultrasonic pest repeller and such. It also allows you to plug in a fan when working up there. Consider switched attic lighting, so when you go up there you can flip a switch and see. Code requires a minimal number of outside outlets on the house. You might want to have an outlet on each side of the house so you don’t have to run an extension cord all over the place to power the hedge clippers. If you plan on having security cameras, consider the power needs for the type of camera you intend to install. Some units require power at the end destination, while other will require it at the camera location. Do you intend to have a fishpond, fountain, or other outside water attraction? You might need power for pumps, lights, etc. How about a birdbath heater? Note: There are extra code requirements whenever you mix water and electricity (or more accurately, whenever you DON’T want to mix them). Make sure you do things correctly. If you plan to have decorative yard lighting (either LV or HV), you will need power for them, and some way to control them. If you plan one controlling them from a plug-in module, try to locate the module someplace protected from the elements. If you have a larger yard, consider running power to other spots on the property. These additional outlets can be used for decorations, yard work, or someplace for the kids to plug in their boom box. Plan for task lighting/floodlights outside. These lights should be mounted high on the sides of the house, and can be either halogen or regular spotlights. If you plan to control them remotely, make you stay within the switches power limits. Spotlights, especially halogens, add up quickly. Look around for places that you MIGHT want electricity in the future, either for electrical appliances, or lighting. Some suggestions that require either a switch, or receptacle are; Lighting for picture frames or artwork Lighting for cabinets holding collectables Bannister lights In the kitchen * Under cabinet lighting * In cabinet lighting * Above cabinet lighting * Kick-space lighting * Decorations * Do you want a fan over the kitchen table? On the deck/patio * Lights on/under the railing * Accent lighting * Task lighting over the grill * Decorations In the bedroom * Do you want a ceiling fan? * Up lighting in a tray ceiling * Task lighting around the mirror In the living/great room * An outlet near the fireplace mantle for decorations or lights * Spotlights on the mantle * If you have a “stone” chimney, consider putting lights on the ceiling, around a foot from the chimney. These lights will bring out the texture of the chimney * Ceiling fan(s) Consider putting lights in the closets. There are in-expensive switches that can be put in the doorjambs that will automatically turn the light on and off Depending on how much you plan on installing automation, you can wire the house without 3-way (or 4-way, etc) switches. Then install the loads in out of the way locations and put multi-button remote control at the locations where you normally would have had switches. When you do this, it eliminates the "switch banks" that normally crop up around the doorways, especially exterior doors. Very versatile, and it removes a lot of visual clutter. In some locations, increase the size of the box by one space (i.e. 1 single gang is replaced by a 2-gange, a 2-gange by a 2-gang, etc.). The extra space can be used for a multi-button remote control. Plan for future LCD/Plasma installations. If you know where they would go, you should power for them now. Don’t forget the LV connections either. If it’s a large house, consider installing power for a high-speed hot water recycling pump, such as THIS (gothotwater.com). This will provide hot water --Russ

All wall outlets where your nightstands will be in the bedroom should have USB plugins. I have installed them in my home and it is great. I would put one in the kitchen, and living room as well. No bulky charger taking up room. I now have two functional outlets and a USB charging port for my phone. I also have a dimmer switch with remote control in my master bedroom which is nice. Heated towel bars are another option. They are either hardwired or plugged in. The hardwired version looks better in my opinion. Your master bath shower can be fully automated with electric controls so you preset your water temp and then your have your mood lighting and speakers in the shower as well. http://www.us.kohler.com/us/DTV-Custom-Showering-Experience/content/CNT2400429.htm If you wanting to go insanely fancy and budget isn't a factor they have glass doors that can be installed in your shower that frost when shut. You can do the same to your windows so you flip on a light switch and you frost out your window. http://innovativeglasscorp.com/default.htm This is really just the basics. The sky is the limit with home automation in todays world. If you want to have a lot of fun you can get a PLC and you can wire the entire home into it. You would then be able to program any switch to turn on any light in the entire home. You can set up and program timers into it so when you turn on the light A light B turns on 5 seconds later and so on. Making it seems as if your lights are preceding you. You are talking 100's of thousands of dollars though but since budget wasn't discussed I will throw it out there for the future person to look into.