PS:Maybe "Horton Hears a Who?". I live in Zone 3 as well but Alberta winters are very long and this year's forcast is for very cold--the mountain ash trees are loaded with berries not a good sign. I have pipe boot connections in my pond for both my retrofit bottom drain and a new midwater drain that I put in this year to get more flow into my sc. Pipe boots in the settling chamber which is also liner chamber and on discharge as well. Never had a problem. If you are just intending on using the pipe for the fish to go back and forth it doesn't need to be that deep--at least a foot of water over the pipe to allow for water level changes should be enough. I would go with the largest pipe you can find both for the fish to go through and not get stuck (don't know how big your fish are) and for water flow between the two ponds. You will need to have both ends of the pipe extend into either pond far enough to cap the pipe for the winter. As I use my pipe for the drains I have a fernco fitting on the pond side of the pipe. In the fall I pull the drain and put a threaded cap in the fitting. On the settling chamber side I just use a test cap. The line has a knife valve so I can shut it down--drain the sc down below the fitting and put the cap in on the pond side then shop vac any water out of the pipe between pond and sc (it's only 18" of pipe) and cap the sc side. In your case depending on how deep your pipe is you can cap one side off then you'll have to drain the other side down far enough to get any water out of your between ponds pipe then cap it. Water left in the pipe will freeze and crack the pipe if you don't drain it. There is another thread on this forum on overwintering fish under ice in cold weather conditions. I've never had any luck overwintering fish in my pond but like I said I live in -25C weather for three to four months of the winter. Oh joy. Not! Good luck with your project! Patti

A 15x15 living room is pretty small but whether it is too small depends on what you plan to do with it. You mentioned that you are a family of three (with maybe one more someday) but I see a living room, a family room, and a game room. That's essentially THREE living areas. Plus you have a dedicated office. Then there are FIVE bedrooms. I won't be like some folks and try to tell you that you don't need all that space - perhaps you have lots of overnight company on a fairly regular basis or expect to have aging parents move in with you fairly soon. But, with only three people living in the house full time, it does make me wonder how you plan to use the front living room. The family room and game room should provide plenty of space for one or two children to play and the family to gather to watch TV, converse, play games, do chores, etc. The dedicated office means you shouldn't be needing the the living room as a computer space or home office. So I'm guessing the living room will mostly be a "show piece" that gets little or no use. And in that case, 15 x 15 is plenty big. What I see missing from the floor plan is any sort of mud-room area. I also don't really like the location of the downstairs powder room and the garage looks too small to park two full-sized vehicles. For comfort, your garage needs to be at least 4 ft longer than your longest automobile and it needs to be wide enough to give you two feet of clearance on the sides and between the two vehicles. Otherwise you're constantly brushing your clothing up against a vehicle when you try to get in/out. And, if there are any steps down into the garage, you need extra space around the steps so that you don't have to park with your bumper over the bottom step. I also don't like front-facing garages that nose out in front of the house because it tends to make the garage more prominent (noticeable) than the house. Makes it look like you built a garage with an attached house instead of a house with an attached garage. The proverbial GARAGEhouse. If your lot is small and you have no options except a front facing garage, I would at least want the architect to push the garage back so that the house is closer to the front of the lot than the garage. I'd also rethink having the master bedroom over the garage. Anyone sleeping in the bedroom over the garage is likely to hear the garage door open/close. I'd see if there wasn't some way to move the game room to the spot over the garage and put the master bedroom in a quieter location.

I have to state publically that lazypup rocks! He sent me this very detailed email, accompanied by the drawing below. I wanted to post it for anyone else who might want to learn a thing or two about plumbing and codes. I know I sure did. His advice: On first inspection your bathroom project appeared very simple, but as I began going over the details it soon became apparent that your project has a number of rather unique problems to overcome, so much so in fact that I intend to add this bathroom to my apprenticeship training program. To make matters worse, the Indiana Plumbing Code is based upon the Uniform Plumbing Code (UPC), which is much more restrictive than the International Residential Code (IRC), especially in regards to venting requirements. For the purposes of discussion let us assume your print to have standard map orientation thus the top is north (N), the bottom south (S), the left side west (W) and the right side is east (E). Let us begin with the shower and watercloset drain (Common name "toilet", proper name "watercloset"- abbreviated WC). The shower enclosure is 36" N x S & 48" W x E with the drain opening centered @ 18" north of the south wall. We have a stud wall running N to S between the shower & WC enclosure and the WC is centered against the E wall of the enclosure. This means the closet flange must be 12" W of the finished E wall and centered between the N & s walls at 18". Problem: Both the shower and WC drains are centered at 18" however the flow from each fixture opposes the flow of the opposite fixture but code requires each to connect to the receiving drain line in the direction of flow. To add further complication, the code prohibits installing a Tee on a horizontal line; therefore we cannot join the two lines over the vertical drain riser in the load-bearing wall with a Tee. WE could come forward from the WC to a point over the LB wall, install a 1/4bend to turn 90deg then install a Wye to connect the shower line but; Code prohibits notching the underside of the joists so we must find a solution that fits within one joist bay. We could install a 3x3x2 side inlet 1/4bend under the closet flange but that would place the inlet too high to permit the required pitch on the drain line from the shower. We have one quarter bend under the closet flange, which turns the closet flange line from vertical down to horizontal. We will need a second quarter bend on the horizontal to turn it down to the riser in the load-bearing wall. The riser in the load-bearing wall is approximately 24" from the E wall, however the closet flange must be mounted at the standard 12" offset. We then have 12" horizontal remaining from the closet flange centerline to the vertical riser centerline, but each quarter bend requires a 4.5" fitting allowance for a combined allowance of 9". There is no fitting that would fit in the remaining 3". The solution is to install a 3" quarter bend on the closet flange then a 3x3x2 side inlet quarter bend on the top of the vertical riser. The finished elevation of the side inlet will be determined by the pitch from the shower drain once the trap and drain line is completed, (see attached illustration). The side inlet can be placed on the north or south side of the closet drain line depending upon how the WC fits in the joist bay. Place the side inlet on the side, which gives you the most clearance. Next install the shower drain basket assembly & P-trap. Keep the p-trap as high as possible and angle the tailpiece of the P-trap at 45deg towards the side of the joist bay on the same side as the side inlet on the vertical drain line. Code requires that all PVC pipe must be supported at not more than 48" increments so in this manner you will be able to install a pipe support on the side of the joist bay. You will need a 2" vent so at the point where the shower drain line passes under the stud wall between the shower and WC enclosures install a Wye & 1/8 bend or a combo with the side inlet pointing up. You will then extend a 2" vent line up through that stud wall to the attic space. Once in the attic space you may continue on out through the roof or you may turn it horizontal and connect to the lavatory vent before going through the roof. From the vent location continue running the drain line towards the vertical drain along the joist until you can make a 45deg offset to the side inlet on the drain line. (Do not make a 90deg offset because code requires we install a cleanout at every change of direction greater than 45deg.). At this point we have concluded the shower and WC drain and we can turn to the lavatory drains. LAVATORY DRAIN; Per industry & code standard lavatories (common name bathroom sink) have a 1-1/4" drain opening and tailpiece. Code also states that the P-trap and fixture arm should be the same size as the drain opening however code will allow us to increase the size of a P-trap or drain by a maximum of one nominal trade size. Given that the lavatory fixture arm and lavatory drain is the only line in a residential structure that is permitted to be 1-1/4 most plumbers have opted to fall back on the code exception allowing us to increase to 1-1/2" rather than maintain a separate inventory of 1-1/4" pipe and fittings for this limited use. In fact, this practice has become so common that it is often now difficult to find 1-1/4" pipe and fittings anywhere outside of a dedicated Plumbing Supply house. Previously I stated that the UPC is a bit more restrictive than the IRC. Under the IRC all structures are required to have one main vent which must run undiminished in size from the building main drain through the roof, then all auxiliary vents may be reduced to ½ the diameter of the line they serve providing the vent is no smaller than 1-1/4". Under the UPC we are not required to run a building "main vent" however all vents are required to be sized from a table in the code based upon the number of DFUÂs on the line served and the combined aggregate cross sectional area of all vents must be equal to or greater than the cross sectional area of the main drain. Under the UPC both a 1-1/4" line and a 1-1/2" line are rated for a maximum load of 1DFU however an 1-1/4" vent is rated for a maximum of 1DFU while an 1-1/2" vent is rated for up to 8DFUÂs providing there are no WC served by the vent. (WCÂs require a minimum of a 2" vent) In this case we are planning to vent both lavatories with one vent line so we will need a 1-1/2" vent line. Beginning at a point directly behind the lavatory on the NW corner of your bathroom mark the point where the fixture arm will stub out to the sink trap (16" to 18" above the finished floor). At that point you will install a sanitary tee with a stub-out from the side opening to a trap adapter to connect the trap to the sink. From the top of that tee you will run a 1-1/2" vertical line into the attic space for the vent. From the bottom of that tee you will install a 1-1/2" vertical drain line down into the joist bay below, Now you will install a 1/4bend turning the pipe horizontal to the west. Remember to keep the quarter bend in the upper 1/3 of the joist bay to allow clearance for the required pitch drop on the horizontal line as it moves to the west. The total length of the horizontal line will be 7 and all lines under 3" diameter require a ¼" per foot drop so the total drop is 7 x ¼" =7/4" or properly 1-3/4". Code requires that all PVC must be supported within 1 of a major change in direction and at increments of not more than 48". Install a pipe hanger within 1 of the quarter bend where the vertical line changed to horizontal under the 1st lavatory. Now move 4 to the west and install another pipe hanger securing the pipe 1" lower than the output of the quarter bend. Continue running the 1-1/2" pipe until you reach a point directly below the proposed position for the second lavatory fixture arm. Make a fixture arm stub-out for the second lavatory the same length as you made the one for the 1st sink and attach a trap adapter on one end. Now attach a quarter bend on the opposite end and connect it to a 1-1/2" vertical drop down into the joist bay. Careful here. The DFU load from the 1st sink is 1DFU and the DFU load from the 2nd sink is 1DFU so the combined load on the tee will be 2DFUÂs. A 1-1/2" tee is rated for a maximum of 1DFU so you will need to use a 2" tee with a 2"x 1-1/2" reducer bushing on the top and side openings to attach the two sink drain lines to the tee. From the bottom of the tee you will install a 2" line and offset it as necessary to the load-bearing wall where you will make the vertical drop to the basement. As I stated previously, code prohibits running a vent line horizontal at any point lower than 6" below the flood level rim of the highest fixture served by that vent, however in this case the vent line is from the attic space down to the tee behind the first lavatory. From that tee the remaining line down to the joist bay and the horizontal line over to the second lavatory is technically classified as a "Vented branch" and it will suffice to "Wet vent" the second lavatory and the vertical drop to the basement. You have concluded the DWV in the bathroom and can now move to the attic to complete the vents. Up to this point we have run two vents into the attic space and under the UPC all vents must terminate through the roof however we may combine both the vents into one before making a roof penetration. Begin at the 1-1/2" vent riser above the first lavatory install a quarter bend and run a 1-1/2" line to the 2" vent above the shower wall. In colder climates where there is risk of frost closure it is best to keep the horizontal connector as close to the attic floor as possible to take advantage of residual heat through the insulation. Code requires that in regions subject to frost closure we must increase the size of the vent pipe to 3" at least 1 inside the attic space before penetrating the roof. That works fine in older homes that have poor insulation in the attic space where the attic will generally remain above freezing, but for modern construction or in older homes that have been adequately insulated in the attic space it is best to make the transition to 3" as close to the attic floor as possible. To make the connection between the two vents you will install a Tee, only this time the tee must be installed upside down so that the radius of flow on the side inlet is upward. The tee must be placed high enough to allow a ¼" per foot pitch downward from the tee to the quarter bend on the second vent line. With the two vents combined you will then use a plumb bob to mark the center of the opening on the roof decking and cut the opening. Extend the 3" pipe up through the opening and install a flashing on the roof to seal the opening weather tight. The vent line must extend a minimum of 6" above the roof, but in regions subject to snow the vent must extend to a point 6" above the height of average snowfall as defined in your local code.

Thanks for all the help so far. Work and life have been busy for the last week so I've neglected my kitchen plans, but my architect is back in town and we are meeting with her next Tuesday so I am back on it today. A couple of new thoughts/developments since I last posted after looking at appliances and considering the input of my husband (which I do actually do occasionally, especially on kitchen stuff as he is the more frequent cook!). - instead of double ovens and cooktop, we will likely get a 36" inch range and a speed oven/microwave mounted somewhere on the lower cabinets (I like the 24" Miele, but all others seem to be 30" wide so may go with another brand like GE just to make any future replacement more likely to go with existing cabinets). - on northwest wall we are now considering a 24" or so cabinet with drawers that we can use as a landing area for junk drawer type stuff and maybe a glass cabinet above so we could use it as a bar area for parties. Then the rest of that wall will be a framed in cabinet. I want to install a countertop at regular height (see inspiration picture below) that we might keep a regular microwave on, soda stream etc, and then have room for (non-built in) bar fridge below if we find we need extra cold storage. I think the closet itself probably needs to come out at least 36" inches from the wall to give a little space between the countertop and door, but I plan to use 2 of my 24" doors opening to each other on this closet so the opening will be wide. - I am getting a free built in 15" ice maker from my work. After debating keeping it in the basement, I think I want it in the kitchen (it's nice) because we use a lot of ice. - We will then install a insta hot/filtered cold faucet on the sink, which has me wondering if then we will want a separate prep sink near the icemaker for people getting water (we drink A LOT of ice water in our family). I forget if it was mamagoose or someone else on another thread that suggested the idea of a corner prep sink, but that kind of appeals to me because that is where our current sink is and while I don't want it for my main sink anymore I think it makes good use of space I'd probably under use otherwise. So given all that, does anyone have any suggestions for me before we meet with the architect. I'm still unclear in my own mind what the arrangement of major appliances should be. Here's my pantry idea picture (although this looks deeper than I am envisioning). Here's my existing plans with some additional measurements.