Bill - thanks so much for "stopping by" to help out. I've seen your work and how much you help, and you have a truly generous spirit. Thank you. The reason I do not want to put the Rondec over the mud bed is that the mud bed sticks out from the wall! So if I put the Rondec on top, I have maybe 1/4" to 3/8" of mud bed edge showing under the Rondec. My contractor says he usually has them line up the tile carefully with the underlying mud bed, then carefully apply a thin layer of grout on the very end, covering the mud bed and the bond coat and the tile. Then they paint it to match the walls. He said it looks OK as long as they do a careful job, but I told him there had to be a better way! That's why I am hoping they can use the Rondec UNDER the mud bed to cover that, too. Thanks again.

The acrylic radii sections are cut with a trammel. The cut sections are clamped and adhered together. Blocking is hot melted to the acrylic circle. Note the side and front-to back spacers. I made sure blocking was hot melted over each seam. The 3/16" sides are adhered to the blocking and the solid surface. I pulled the built-up edge out of my oven, 15 minutes at 350 degrees, and thermoformed it around the frame. As gentle as the Daniclamps are, I should have used a laminate shim on their lip to spread the load because they dimpled my pieces occasionally. Fortunately, the dimples sanded out. My neighbor Frank cuts my old mirror on my dining room table. He wouldn't take any money. We built the reflected chandelier and valance too. I've painted the frame and I'm sticking tile with Power Grab. The white solid surface has been profiled and polished, hence the blankie. I've painted the raw mirror edge with clear nail polish per Frank's instruction and installed it. I've used mechanical fasteners with an uncured rubber roofing shim between the metal and mirror; Frank wanted mirror silicone. The blobs are mastic that stuck my old mirror to the wall. If I remove them and they take the back of the mirror when they go, I'm screwed so I leave them. Detail drawings dribbled with Acetone.

I used solid-surface material for the edges, same as used on my countertop. The fabricator handled this. The first photo below is a close up of Schluter edging (not my bathroom). The second photo shows edging with Caesarstone Blizzard on the niche and window in my master bathroom. And the 3rd photo is natural quartzite, used in my guest bathroom. Same stone on countertop, vertical edge of shower, curb, edge of shower niche, and edge of window. This was before the shower trims, shower head, and glass enclosure were installed.

No, not using two tiles. I was just messing around learning to use the materials and didn't want to waste my tiles so I was using samples. My tile is the one on top that abuts the Schluter. That makes sense about the trowel -- I was using a 3/16". Duh. Boyfriend's brother, a professional tiler, just said that he never uses the irregular ceramic tiles, nor the Schluters because they are both a nightmare to work with, but I've seen other DIY'ers say the opposite regarding the tiles -- that they are very forgiving because of the inherent irregularity. Any opinions on that? (I'm pretty scared to start this project, if you can't tell ;-) Thank you so much -- just what I needed to know!