Thanks all. Hose Vixen -- I do love that little powder room, had I to do it over I might have been more creative with the tile work, but at that pooint i was still figuring out how to do all this stuff. The tumbled marble really does have a warm look and feel to it, much more so than the image conveys. I wanted to do the master with it but my wife thought it would be to hard to clean and that it would look to masculine. I lost that battle! Mongcot -- 1) Did you put a membrane (6-mil poly or lapped tar paper) between the Durock and the framing? I don't see anything int he photos. We did not put anything between the framing and the wall board. I had intended to, even boght the poly, but it just never happened. i also think it's overkill, we took off the existing original drywall and there were'nt even any water stains behind the areas that showed moisture damage. I did, however, fill all the voids with fiberglass insulation for sound proofing. The shower wall is against my sons room, before you could really hear the shower running, toilet flush and my little AM radio when i listen to the news in the morning. Now you hear almost nothing, glad I did that. With regards to your shower membrane, the 40-mil Oatey? 2) Did you install a deck mud preslope and then put the membrane over the preslope, or is the membrane flat on the subfloor and you did a deck mud preslope on top of the membrane? No preslope. 1/2" plywood floor, 1/4" Hardi Backer (may have been 1/2" and 1/2", don't really remember)then the memberane, then the mud. All the sloping was done in the mud. 3) Where the membrane goes over the curb, you nailed the membrane into the top of the curb. How did you attach the backer board to the inside edge of the curb? Nails or screws into the curb? You can see that the membrane only covers about one third of the curb. I added some wood shims (just enough to give the curb a very slight angle toward the shower) and mortered the HardiBacker curb top down and screwed it as well, trying to keep the screws out of the membreane line. There are new screws on the inside edge of the curb. I figured between the morter, the tile overlapping the curb on the ends and gravity, the curb isn't going anywhere! Oh, and give your helper a promotion! What, he has union representation now? We are a non-union home in a right to work state, meaning he can be fired without cause and with no recourse. He needs to walk a fine line, escpecially with a younger, more trainable staff member coming along soon!!!!!!

Not a lot of progress in the last week, as I went out of town for a wedding. Mr. Weedy and his dad ended up cutting a couple days off their trip to get back to Iowa because grandma was fading fast. So no side trip to OK this time to meet the famous Jon Mon in person. :-( Anyway, we're back from wedding and funeral and have 3 days before we go east to help one sister put a bathroom in her basement and paint another one's house. So today I finished up the big flight of stairs. The decking is kind-of squeaky, presumably because all the expanding and contracting from the rain/sun. So Mr. Weedy tightened up all the screws that aren't yet plugged. I guess that's what using Liquid Nails under the decking helps prevent? I've done that on the stairs and they feel very solid, so I'm sold on that technique for the next deck, should there be one. Our goal is to finish the plugging tomorrow and the wood part of the railings on Saturday. There are two of us, so it should go faster than my solo act the past 3 weeks. The staining will hopefully follow soon after we get back from my sisters'.

Laurielou177: I did none of it -- my furniture guy did. It isn't one piece of maple -- but, you could probably use maple plywood and nose it to hide the edges. Contact me off-line ecliberman@cox.net -- I'll ask my furniture guy exactly what he did. I know that I asked him to make it so it could be easily disassembled, if I ever wanted to pick up the post for cleaning. The post is attached to the table by wooden cleats. I believe he cut away part of the top of the post to insert the piece of wood crosswise. The end that goes into the wall is supported by a two pieces of wood on the underside. One is screwed into the wall. Attached to that is a piece that is screwed into the underside of the table. In addition, there are three strips of wood going across the underside of the table to give the width of the table some support. The dimensions of the table top are 30.5 x 48. We had a tight space. Trestles are a good option, and look nice in an old house, but I thought they had to be stabilized by a stretcher at the bottom. I'm not sure I used the right furniture terms. As much as I obsessed about this, I'm already forgetting all the details. Email me if you really want to know.

I would find a plain jane bullnose trim from some other source. You're going to have an issue using a profile because of the different thicknesses of the tile at the edge vs. the cut middle section. (Grouting this will be enough of a pain that you will quickly lose patience with the different and "wrong" depths on a cut edge.) A bullnose is the only way that a vintage bath would have been finished off. Maybe do the black instead of the white. That's probably easier to match than to worry about the white's being the same. Also, from your other thread, I would never do a tiled curb. That's something that going to crack most likely. An old fashioned mud bed wouldn't, but the new thinsets, thin tile, and time will assure that it doesn't have longevity.