Hello and thanks for all the information in this thread. I've been researching trying to get the area prepped for my 48" Bluestar Platinum. I wanted to share these pictures to help out and share some advice that I was given by installers and Bluestar. The most useful picture I found in my research was the back of the range posted in this thread by parrym but my 48 was a little different. First, the installation documents showing where the gas connection and clearances are does not imply that it is where you should installed your recessed gas box. In fact, what you want to do is run the gas hose underneath the unit and up the clearance to the gas connection. This is what Bluestar support recommended. So some of the people who are putting the gas boxes directly behind the gas connection will have a hard time getting the hose to curl up in that area. Mine will actually be on the opposite side and while pushing the range in, we will pull on the hose to get it under the unit and into the recessed area on the range. Probably the easiest way to move the unit would be air sleds/air dollies. But the delivery guy from Universal Appliance recommended that we remove all the grates on top, then remove the doors. The doors he claimed are almost 1/4 of the weight and at that point you can pick it up. I have a restaurant and I like to clean up behind the ranges sometimes so I'm probably going to pick up a Dormont flexible gas hose and find some casters for this range. If installing a backsplash, they recommend the backsplash be below the top of the range and actually push the range out the depth of the backsplash because there are vents on top for the island trim. That is if you have the space for not having to mount it flush. Finally, be careful that your electrical outlet if mounting below is not obstructed by the middle leg.

It is good that the problem of lint outside is solved by some sort of mesh bin. Some pointers below for consideration. Hope this helps. The dryer cabinet itself overtime becomes littered with (1) airborne dust. The dryer internal ducting system on the other hand is littered with (2) lint from the clothes being dried (in combination with the dust above). Dust (1) is by nature going to happen to any space and it gets accelerated by the blower taking in the air surrounding the dryer cabinet crevices forcing into the hot flame chamber to create hot air. So dust in the laundry room particularly where the dryer stands is the culprit here. Lint (2) inside the dryer internal ducting come from escaping lint past the dryer lint filter which has a medium mesh to make sure some will pass to avoid air being clogged up badly avoiding premature motor burn out or flame cutting out. *Wool and winter clothes accelerate this. *Anyone notice a thicker than usual clog in one cycle? The dryer internal ducting will eventually accumulate and be full of lint and some will go past the blower wheel on to the flexible ducting then to the fixed ducting on the wall going outside. The first defense is the lint filter being cleaned out every cycle or even during *half the cycle at times and this is critical. Second is cleaning out the area surrounding the dryer frequently by sweeping or wiping a regular floor. (Who does this in a little washer and dryer room and a little hallway access to the garage? Not to mention the washer being the most heavy and the dryer second.) Third is opening up the dryer to clean the cabinet floor by vacuum or wiping. Some dryers have lower front panels that are removable. Fourth is cleaning out the dryer ducting past the lint filter with a flexible long reach dryer brush and a very slim flexible vacuum attachment, or Fifth, which is the best method is taking apart the dryer internal ducting past the lint filter if you feel there is a lot of dust build up there that one cannot take out by the method above. Cleaning the blower wheel can be done at this time too.The dryer after blower internal ducting should be cleaned along with the connecting flexible hose and finally the fixed wall dryer ducting and outside vent annually.

The scrolling feature normally is herky-jerky until after the full page has loaded. If you have a slow internet connection such as dial-up, that can be a bothersome problem. Years go, web developers were more kind to dial-ups, but as time passed, the graphic content and ads increased until many webmasters began to program as though everyone had unlimited speed. There is a second hidden feature: the way the internet servers are programmed to operate. The system can tell when it has connected to a slow speed customer and will reduce the amount of time slices allocated to that user, the thinking being that it will be able to keep up and thereby can pass more bits total by giving more play the faster connections. It doesn't always work out that way when the system gets busy; The faster connections gets the lion's share and the dial-up service becomes slower than normal.

Just replaced T Cell. Within 24 hours of replacement, the "check system" light came on with a reading of "high salt/amps". The salt level tested ok. The voltage in the box is reading "40", but apparently it should read in the 30-31 range. Goldline tech says something is wrong in the controller box and to call a technician, of course. This seems too coincidental to have occurred contemporaneous with replacement of the T-cell. Any suggestions? What can I check out/repair/replace in the controller box before spending a fortune with a tech who will likely want to replace the box or panel. I re-soldered a wire last year at the suggestions of you good folks to get another 18 months out of the T-cell. Any suggestions would be appreciated. davidb@duplass.com