Wireless maybe you understand you need to have a wireless router, before a wireless usb adapter will work. Or a wireless laptop also will need the wireless router. USB wireless adapters on sale are sometimes 20 dollars or so.. but even a 100 dollar one wont work without something for it to connect to to access your modem/internet.

thanks for responding- i am talking about a desktop- i do not want a laptop at this time. I guess i thought a router was only for wireless computers- so if i get the wireless card does that mean i then have to get a wireless internet plan or will the wireless card and router work with the regular dsl? For about a year the computers will be by each other and after that they will be on different levels of the house.. So is there a preferable way of how i should go meaning hard wire or wireless? And does whichever way i chose determine what kind of router i need to get or are they all the same? So this also leads me to a question and that is how will i know if my current printer will be compatible with the new computer? i only ask because i heard people had that issue with Vista. I also want to ask about the antivirus programs you are referring too. I have always used AVG..can i still use this on windows 7 or do i need to stick with the ones you are referring to. Thanks again

I just bought a Toshiba L45 bottom line laptop for $450 after $150 rebate. Luckily it has a Pentium Mobile Dual Core processor, dual layer dvd burner, wifi, 5400rpm hard drive, 1Gb memory, graphic card with 128 mem and can use system ram too, 15.4 inch true-bright display. Sent 90 bucks to an etailer for 2gb of Kingston memory and a 4gb sandisk usb drive for Vista's readyBoost feature. Works nifty actually on 1GB, a 1gb flash drive does give it some added snappyness. I have a wifi enaabled modem from my isp, which was free. And a second wifi access point out back because there's a dead spot where I sit out there. Not much to it really. You dont need to send much if you watch for the sales... I prefer to stay away from the celery type mobile processor because they can get more hotter on your lap than most and dont think they have the power savings flexabilities. I'm replacing a 4 plus yr old toshiba that I broke and will mickey mouse it back together one way or another and probably make it a part time server and back up computer so I can make my old desktop into something with a coolness old factor. It uses too much electricity so I cant run it full time. I'm rambling... its way to cold and windy out there, 45°/8:30am .... which is like ..freezing to me.

I really have never seen a Arzel zone system. I visited their website to get a better understanding of this. They use a medical grade pump to provide air or I suppose the lack there of to open or close the damper of the zone(s) in question. It sounds like this system is more for systems with hard access to one degree or another or odd type duct system because the dampers look odd to me, but I question the mentality of this because you still have to install the damper and run tubing to it to control it from the zone panel or where ever this medical grade pump is at. Arzel claims that mechanical dampers are noisy? I have never seen a noisy damper... they open they close. It may be more cost effective to control a damper pneumatically over long period time. I don't know how long a medical grade air pump could last that would be the cost effective question you would need the answer to. I believe Arzel uses springs to close the dampers. So the pump only activates on a call. Wireless dampers: I do believe they exist but probably require specialized control for operation. Meaning proprietary, the dampers won't work with just any control... so if they break down you may only have one option. It's more common to use a powered damper, meaning electricity powered typically using control voltage. There are various powered dampers, some of better quality, some that are junk... so the field is wide open. Typically powered dampers will work with just about any zoning control system that is designed to work with control voltage type dampers. Obviously the better the quality of damper, the less your problems will be provided that the system is well designed and installed. The only reason wireless dampers exist in my opinion is ease of installation. But they can have intermittent problems that develop causing dampers to stop working because of lost signals or other problems. For that reason I would install a wired damper system. If wireless is used for thermostat control for various areas of the structure that is an entirely different situation. The thermostat is wireless sending information to the control board via wireless means because the location in which the thermostat must be placed is not practical to run wires. While this can be problematic, I think it is less problematic than that of having a entire damper system that is run wirelessly. There really should be no reason not to have a wired damper system. If access is that tight how are you going to install the damper? Wires to control the damper are small.