Kate, I don't know if the experiences of a novice will shed any light on your problems with Eden, esp. since we are in such different areas. Eden was the first rose I planted five years ago and I stuck her in dry compacted soil under an eave of our house. She did great. I loved her so much that the next spring I took two cuttings which rooted within a couple weeks and I planted them. Where? In another dry area under an eave. I just stuck them there probably because I didn't expect that they would really grow. But they did. They put out tons of new growth and by fall were two to three feet tall. Unfortunately I had planted them in a five foot long bed that already had my two Pilgrims in it. Fortunately I realized that that wasn't going to work. One I re-planted in a hedge of gardenias -- under an eave. The other out in the middle of a sunny garden with nice rich cultivated -- and moist -- soil. The one I planted under the eave, where it never gets watered and competes with other shrubs, now has at least ten mammoth canes and I need to prune it soon as much of the rose is taller than my house. The one planted out in the sunny rich area... it looks pretty pathetic. It has two canes, one is long and one is short. You can see how unthoughtful and ignorant I was when I planted my Edens -- I would never do things that way now. I just wondered if maybe it said something about the conditions that this rose favors?? Who know? I surely don't!! I love love love this rose but if I had a small space I think I would chose a climber that was either fragrant or a more reliable re-bloomer, something I hadn't tried yet. Maybe! Your photo of Eden is gorgeous. I always love looking at your gardens. Let us know what you do.

I have had a heck of a time with the newer cheaply made ones. I built a shop building and used them on all circuits since it's a concrete floor. I've had them trip just by plugging in an extension cord or a tool that's not even turned on yet, with no known ground fault problems. After tripping a few dozen times they just don't stay on at all and you have to replace them. You can use a GFI breaker in the power panel but they can be expensive. I just replaced one in my mom's 1978 house, cost $59. Probably an odd one at that age and newer ones would be cheaper. I considered just changing the outlets on the circuit but no idea which is the first one in line and replacing them all with good GFI's would have cost as much as the breaker. At least I didn't have to pay an electrician. And yes I am pretty sure there was no actual ground fault involved, and all the sockets and outside lights work again.

Yeah, I got some 120mm case fans for mine and am just waiting on a wall wart to come in off of ebay. Its easy enough to splice wires to turn computer fans into plugins. Because I'm sure as hell not paying $30 for one from Radio Shack!

Big edit for this post, you posted the Kerdi shot while I was typing. So... 1) The flex in the floor that is causing the grout to crack: It's possible that the Kerdi Tray was not properly bedded in thinset, so as the slightly flexible tray flexes, the inflexible grout is cracking. It's also possible that the small size of the penny rounds is resulting in point loading on the foam tray. The foam compresses ever-so-slightly, the tile moves, the grout cracks. The floor...Is your guy using thinset as grout? Grout as thinset? With the penny rounds, it almost looks like he's doing an all-at-once installation. Setting the tile, promoting between-the-tile-squeeze-through, then grouting. All at the same time. A negative with that is that he's grouting and cleaning the grout before the thinset has fully cured. When I grout I'm pretty aggressive with the grout float in order to get grout into every nook and cranny. I don't want to leave any voids. If your guy took it easy when grouting so as to not displace the unbonded sheets of penny rounds, he could have left a few voids beneath the surface. If he wanted to be gentle while cleaning the grout, he might have used too much water during cleanup, that can also weaken the grout. I don't know why the floor is being grouted piecemeal. That's an easy way to get uneven grout color on a floor. As he continues to tile, he'll have to chip out parts of the hardened thinset/grout at the edges fo the already installed sheets to get the subsequent sheets of tile to mesh with the already installed sheets. He'll need to be careful to not ding the Kerdi membrane. It's also a recipe for mismatched spacing at the edges resulting in being able to see the individual sheets of tile versus the floor being one harmonious surface of penny rounds. With him sliding the floor tile under the bottom course of wall tile, I do hope he's not leaving any unfilled voids in the floor-wall corners. 2) Bullnosing. He bullnosed the tile after they were on the wall? Yeah. Probably not going to get a good outcome. Should be an easy remove and replace. The bowed wall? The tiler tiles on what he gets. If he gets a bowed wall courtesy of the framers, he can put the blinders on and tile right over it...or he can address the bowed walls with whoever hired him...the GC? The homeowner? Then the tiler can either tile right over the bowed wall, OR he can have the contractor fix the wall before he tiles, OR he can repair the wall himself and then tile. One added item...I can't tell what exactly is going on int he bottom left corner of the already installed tile. Could simply be that the tile spacing is skewed and he lost the pattern. After this floor is done and everything cured, I'd recommend having the GC pull the drain grate, install a plug, and flood the floor. As the floor tile is covered with water, watch for air bubbles. They'll indicate voids under the tile or in the corners. Once flooded, pull the plug to see how the floor drains. Make sure it drains completely and that water is not held in the corners. With a Kerdi Tray, the slope of the floor and a properly draining floor should be a no-brainer. But based on what I'm seeing and what you described regarding the bullnose, this could be a "no brain" installation. Sorry for that. Remediation after-the-fact is always a tough spot to be in. Good luck.