It would be SO helpful to see a couple pix of the hand made bullnose, soft areas, cracking grout, penny tile. Without seeing pix it certainly sounds like a do-over to me. I'd document all the odd statements and work, telephone calls and promises made on what date etc. Be sure and get names of who you spoke to as well. Be assertive.........

A long level or other straightedge across the bow with good solid overhead lighting will make the bow undeniable. I would also support your positions with a written repair estimate from another reputable tile company. This will reflex acceptable standards within the industry not just your opinion. And you may need to have this new source do the work.

Here are two images of the floor so you can see what was underneath area in question is near the drain.

Big edit for this post, you posted the Kerdi shot while I was typing. So...

1) The flex in the floor that is causing the grout to crack:

It's possible that the Kerdi Tray was not properly bedded in thinset, so as the slightly flexible tray flexes, the inflexible grout is cracking.

It's also possible that the small size of the penny rounds is resulting in point loading on the foam tray. The foam compresses ever-so-slightly, the tile moves, the grout cracks.

The floor...Is your guy using thinset as grout? Grout as thinset? With the penny rounds, it almost looks like he's doing an all-at-once installation. Setting the tile, promoting between-the-tile-squeeze-through, then grouting. All at the same time.

A negative with that is that he's grouting and cleaning the grout before the thinset has fully cured. When I grout I'm pretty aggressive with the grout float in order to get grout into every nook and cranny. I don't want to leave any voids.

If your guy took it easy when grouting so as to not displace the unbonded sheets of penny rounds, he could have left a few voids beneath the surface. If he wanted to be gentle while cleaning the grout, he might have used too much water during cleanup, that can also weaken the grout.

I don't know why the floor is being grouted piecemeal. That's an easy way to get uneven grout color on a floor.

As he continues to tile, he'll have to chip out parts of the hardened thinset/grout at the edges fo the already installed sheets to get the subsequent sheets of tile to mesh with the already installed sheets. He'll need to be careful to not ding the Kerdi membrane. It's also a recipe for mismatched spacing at the edges resulting in being able to see the individual sheets of tile versus the floor being one harmonious surface of penny rounds.

With him sliding the floor tile under the bottom course of wall tile, I do hope he's not leaving any unfilled voids in the floor-wall corners.

2) Bullnosing. He bullnosed the tile after they were on the wall? Yeah. Probably not going to get a good outcome. Should be an easy remove and replace.

The bowed wall? The tiler tiles on what he gets. If he gets a bowed wall courtesy of the framers, he can put the blinders on and tile right over it...or he can address the bowed walls with whoever hired him...the GC? The homeowner? Then the tiler can either tile right over the bowed wall, OR he can have the contractor fix the wall before he tiles, OR he can repair the wall himself and then tile.

One added item...I can't tell what exactly is going on int he bottom left corner of the already installed tile. Could simply be that the tile spacing is skewed and he lost the pattern.

After this floor is done and everything cured, I'd recommend having the GC pull the drain grate, install a plug, and flood the floor. As the floor tile is covered with water, watch for air bubbles. They'll indicate voids under the tile or in the corners. Once flooded, pull the plug to see how the floor drains. Make sure it drains completely and that water is not held in the corners.

With a Kerdi Tray, the slope of the floor and a properly draining floor should be a no-brainer. But based on what I'm seeing and what you described regarding the bullnose, this could be a "no brain" installation. Sorry for that.

Remediation after-the-fact is always a tough spot to be in. Good luck.

I am no expert, but with schulter I thought the floor was to be tiled before the walls so if water gets behind the wall tile it drips onto the floor and then down a drain the way yours was installed could allow water to get trapped between the membrane and tiles and without weep holes the water has no egress. I was told this was the reason my whole shower needed to be torn out and redone when only my floor was an issue so that it would retain the floor first, walls last system.

Is this a Kerdi foam tray or a mud job??? I would not install your round mosaics on a Kerdi tray. I suggest you call Schluter directly for their recommendation. http://www.schluter.com/schluter-us/en_US/faq/shower-system-kerdishower-tray-tile-format

Hi all

so according to our invoice they ordered a kerdi 48x48 Pvc shower kit. The in process photo above was taken before I made them redo the floor due to the obvious seaming---he rectified that situation but I am afraid did as an earlier poster intimated--set it all at once.

the owner of the company is coming this week to advise he's admitted that the job was rushed and has promised to make it right...unfortunately making it right means that 4 adults will be showering In the tiny guest bath over the holidays.

does any one have any suggestions of what to do with the bullnose situation? I an going to to insist they rip it out...and remove the line item in the invoice where they charged me for bullnose that apparently doesn't exist

Could you show us the modified bullnose as it is installed now ? Hard to say if the bullnose is not available or it is a matter of delay in ordering them .

What mortar was used to install the penny tiles ?