Please excuse my memory lapse. I looked at far too many roses that day. I did get one that is cold hardy, it's a Sub-zero, however, not an Explorer. I'm sorry, I do have a cognitive disorder. The name of it is Climbing Pink Queen. It says on the bag, hardy to -35F. and on the tag it says hardy to -30F. Which does make all the difference in the world really, 5 degrees is equivalent to half a zone. The rose is grafted but the planting instructions say to plant the pot two inches deeper than ground level and then to mound the soil three inches above ground level. That would put the graft about 4-5 inches under dirt. Very similar to the recommendations in the article that Annette posted above. Thanks for the article, Annette, it was very informative! Question...Would it not be wiser to plant it five inches below ground level to start with so I didn't have to worry about the dirt coming un-mounded? That could easily happen in torrential rain storms etc. I would appreciate your input on this question, thanks. We do not usually have much snow cover here. We get two or three snows a year to speak of and generally not more than 2ft. The rest is just flurries that leave and inch or eight. The temps are the worst of it. MeMo

In N michigan I start tomatoes inside and transplant outside about a week after memorial day. I've tried peppers for 3 years and start inside with the tomatoes to grow a nice plant, but they are just starting to get actual pepper buds for our first freeze so have not gotten any peppers from them. Eggplant seems to do okay started inside, you will get some before freezing, but not a whole lot. It's challenging growing with our short season, maybe other people have better suggestions. A friend of mine who also lives in N Michigan started heat loving seedlings out in a rectangle of hay bales with an insulated glass door on top creating a mini greenhouse. She got great peppers and tomatoes that way. I've tried cold weather tomatoes and found them to be not any more tolerant than regular. Once their leaves are frosted and the stem limps over, there is not much you can do. We have an unheated greenhouse that came with the house we bought and last year I tried putting seedlings out there, but fried the poor things in about 2 hours. The temp was over 100 degrees. It's a delicate dance we perform to have fresh veggies come July.

Just imagine a career where dealing with a problem like this is common. That's what you are actually paying for when you take your car to a pro to have it repaired. Your NOT just paying for a thermostat (Which while the most common part guessed is not likely to actually be the problem). Your not paying for a radiator, (Remotely possible, but unless the cooling system has been grossly neglected, not likely either). Your not just paying for a water pump and coolant. (There are reasons that this could be the right direction, but undiagnosed accurately should not have parts just thrown at it). My routine for similar reports of trouble is to first ensure that the coolant is full. That may mean removing a heater hose or some other component high on the engine to allow any air collected to get out, or maybe even be forced out with my pressure tester. Then I road test the vehicle with a scan tool connected. That way I can monitor the engine temperature with not only the gage, but with the sending unit that the PCM uses to control the fuel injection. If they both agree and the engine is running hot, then that directs my next step. If there is a discrepancy between the two temperature readings I need to find out why. If both sensors are reporting higher than normal temperatures, I watch to see how much engine load plays a role in both the creation of engine heat, as well as dissipation of the heat once created. I will often stop alongside the road and use my infrared thermometer to measure radiator surface temperatures. This shows me if the coolant in the radiator is flowing smoothly, or if there are restrictions. The temperature of the air going through the radiator also shows me if I might be dealing with restricted airflow. Engine surface temperatures, are also checked to see if the entire engine is evenly heated. Internal restrictions to coolant flow inside an engine can occur. Did you know that leaving a thermostat out completely can in fact leave the temperature gage low, while a portion of an engine badly overheats? I can't tell you how many times I have had to throw away a piece of cardboard that someone stuck between the radiator and the condensor so that they got heat in the winter, and then they forgot to remove it themselves come summer. Of course the reason they do that is the normal failure often associated with a bad thermostat, stuck open, FWIW, they can stick closed, or partially open but it's rare, like one out of fifty. People in a town like Erie Pa. that have a lot of cottonwood poplar trees have to watch for that cotton building up in the condensor cores, which results in limited airflow, and a similar report of overheating. Camaro's, and Firebirds of the 80's and 90's often had plastic ductwork come loose behind the bumper that was supposed to direct air through the radiator. At highway speeds, this would allow the ductwork to deform, and actually block airflow instead of forcing it through the radiator. Even the air dam below the radiator support is an important and often overlooked as a cause of engine overheating on the highway. The most likely cause of your vehicles problem right now is a coolant leak, and you probably have air stuck behind the thermostat. Replacing the stat, people opften then fill the system correctly, and the falsely think they fixed the car, only to have it act up in a week or two (or less). If you really think you cannot afford a pro to fix this, just wait till you blow a head gasket from actually overheating this a few times. If this is the Single Overhead Cam V-6 with two timing chains like mine, the special tool kit that ONLY WORKS ON THAT ENGINE, to set the timing chains is $500. You will find that only the top shops, and dealerships have invested in owning that tool kit. That's what your actually paying for.

genes, I'm sorry I should have said. No my computer come with IE7 already installed. I have had nothing but trouble with 7 and IE6 which I had on another computer was trouble free. No security problems , no freezing up nothing a problem at all, it had a repair tool which I have been unable to find on IE7. Don't know what the Beta IE 8 is going to be like but we will soon know I feel.