I believe tolerances on these valves are pretty tight, so readings of 50 ohms and 47 ohms would make the valves suspect. The target of 64 ohms is at ~68°F room temperature. Warmer or cooler environment will change the reading a little, but I don't know exactly how much. My first suggestion is replace the hot valve since Code 50 specifically targets it. Do you get any water coming in (cold only perhaps) when starting a cycle? Water runs then, just not via diagnostics? If no water in either case, then maybe both valves are bad. You could check if the board is sending current to the valves by testing for 24 volts DC on the leads for each one. Interestingly, I checked the valves on my IWL12, and both read 0 (not â). I know my valves are good, so probably my el-cheapo meter isn't so good. Power output at the leads reads much less then 24 volts, so again maybe my meter is wonky. (It does read OK for 110/120 AC at an outlet.) Also interestingly, if I disconnect the valve leads with the machine connected to power but otherwise turned off, it'll immediately beep a 50 or 49 fault code.

Guess I'll weigh in here. Dim and I have had our disagreements about X10 before, though basically we are in agreement about control systems in general. Here's the deal, I've put in X10 controls in maybe 30 houses and quite a few businesses since they first came out. I do not recommend them for the entire house, but I have had very good luck with them in limited retrofit situations, such as being able to turn the lights on in the garage before going out there, etc. I am an electrician and am very particular about the way I make my wire splices. Good splicing will eliminate a lot of so-called interference problems. However, I also seem to work almost entirely in rural or industrial locations, mostly because of where I am based, so there's fewer houses around that might introduce interference problems. I just called three people for whom I've installed X10, and none have had the problems mentioned above -- only the pesky delay in action, which many people really dislike. So, I guess I am mystified as to why so many others say they have had bad luck with X10 and not me. Finally, X10 is the value leader hands down. For cost compared to function, nothing beats it. Yes, it's probably best for the "hobbyist who enjoys tinkering," but it is also very good for a relatively handy person who wants relatively simple controls to do basic functions on a limited number of lights, and not pay any more than they have to. As I've said to Dim before, I drive a pickup, not a Mercedes, not because I can't afford a fancy car, but because the pickup does what I need it to do, and I don't have to pay extra for features I don't need (really hard to haul plywood sheets in the Mercedes too!). I feel pretty much the same way about X10 compared to what else is on the market.

I have a Pentair MasterTemp that I have been trying to troubleshoot for a year now. It calls for heat, heat starts for maybe 5-10 seconds, then stops, temp raises rapidly to 124 then slowly back down to 75 and cycles again doing the same thing over and over again. So far I have replaced the thermal regulator, igniter, thermistor and the bypass valve in the manifold. Today, I did a bunch of troubleshooting. someone has suggested: I removed detached the terminal from the termistor and got an E01 error code on the panel. I connected my old termistor and got a reading of 85 degrees. When I hold it, the temp slowly went up to 90. I then reconnected the terminal on the new terminstor and got 75 (I guess that's the water temp). When problem started happening last early last year, one of the thing I did was replaced a broken Jandy check valve between the heater and chlorinator. I also noticed that the flap wasn't opening even at 3450rpm and 20-25psi. Although, there's strong water coming out of the 2 return lines. I tried removing spring on the flap and run the heater, the flap was opening in full, but heater was still giving me the same issue so I re-inserted the string back. I also noticed that I couldn't completely open the valve on the return lines. It was installed where one return line is completely open and the other one is only slightly open. So, I opened the 3-port valve and adjusted it where the 2 return lines are fully open. I run the heater and this time it did something different. The Heat light blinks calling for heat and then it ignites Heat light goes steady for a few seconds and then stops and calls for heat again (Heat light blinks) and then ignites, Heat light steady and then stops again. It kept doing this several times and then sometimes the temp will start counting up rapidly and slowly counts down to the current temp and cycles again. Note: when the opened the manifold last winter to replace the bypass, the manifold and the heat coils have no signs of scales. I only found 1 small stone stuck inside where the bypass is. So I thought that was causing the problem. In case there is blockage in the heat exchanger, how do I fix that? Thanks for your advise. Here are the video links. 1st one is the initial issue. The 2nd is after modified the 3-port valve to the return lines. https://youtu.be/OaYfnEbjAFU https://youtu.be/OLxQI4lA1eg

I suppose, if you have the money, sure, do all the parties up fine. Not the case with most couples, and I think it would be a shame for a couple or their family to go deep into debt just for that. Husband and I are going to have to save for a couple of years to recoup our losses, and our wedding was as informal and cheap as we could make it. One of the biggest splurges was three days in a cottage near Lake Michigan for our honeymoon and also a place where we could entertain guest with alcohol since our two wedding venues (church and park) were dry. I suppose we could have done without that, but it sure was a NICE three days. Now I'll be three years saving to recoup the losses. I know that seems extreme, but we are just barely getting by with my part-time and hubs retirement salaries. Cars, bodies and homes wear out and that takes big bucks to fix. We spent about 8K for two weddings. Other big splurges were real flowers and real musicians at our second wedding. And we went low ball on both compared to what we could have spent. I have to say, it was well worth it for both. Biggest expenses were travel and rents/accommodations. Mostly for us, since that's why we ended up with two weddings, to save travel for our families from two regions of the country.