I think zone4newby hit it -- shave off from either side and you'll be fine. But my comment has to do with the questions you didn't ask (of course). You're on acreage, and your DH is all about the mud room, dog wash, etc. Is this a farm/hobby farm? Are there horses or other livestock? Big garden? Big workshop? If so, where are those things, and how are you envisioning people getting from those places into the house? Because your mudroom opens from the garage. If coming from the barn/shop/whatever, am I expected to get into the garage (car doors or man door?) and then wind around the cars in the garage to get into the mud room? As for the dogs -- it sounds like they are a big part of your life. And that they get muddy. Are these indoor/outdoor dogs (not hunting dogs in a kennel elsewhere on the land)? How do they get outside? Is there a fenced yard? Where is the access to the fenced yard? If the access is through the back of the house, then the muddy dogs have to walk through the house to get to the mud room to get cleaned up. Finally, you're a family of 4. If the garage is a 2-car, that means one or two vehicles will always be parked outside in the drive, or in a pull-off area. And that is probably the kids' car(s). How is the kid meant to enter the house? Open the garage and go through the mudroom? Or will he take the straight line to the front door? You might want to consider a breezeway of some kind between the house and the garage. It can have a door opening to the front for the driveway parkers, and to the back for those coming from whatever activities take place in the back. It can also work for the dogs if everyone is disciplined enough to take them through the breezeway to be let in and out.

The roof line appears overly complicated and expensive. How many roof areas are there ? I seem to be counting at least 13 just visible on the front of the house. Every place 2 roof lines meet runs a greater chance of a water problem. Yikes. Can you post the back and side views ? Is this a 3 story house? Overall I am seeing too much going on. But also a 2-D drawing can be deceptive. Have you posted a floorplan here? lafdr

I am with hubby. I would not want a window-shaker in the bedroom if there is any other way. You have a premium system with the ground source heat pump. Running a window unit might cost more to operate than overcooling the rest of the house. A ceiling fan might be counterproductive. You might be better off letting hot air stratify near the ceiling. High wall mount mini splits don't have to be on outside walls if you can find a way to deal with the condensate. I have 6 on interior walls and the seventh on the outside wall has its plumbing run in the stud space, not directly to the outside. You could also install a small AHU in the top of a closet or in adjacent space. Before jumping into a mini split, do make sure that your system supply and return ducts to the MBr are operating properly. Modifications to your primo GSHP system probably makes more sense than adding. Larger ducts would do it if possible. In addition to that, let's paint with a big brush and see if another zone can be added. Ask around and get recommendations for excellent HVAC pros in your area and then get them in to look at it. On the other hand, a MSHP would be very easy to operate with a small back up generator. That room might be a nice oasis in times of power outage.

"The moving of the sink on the right-hand picture, is this to allow more food prep space?" Yes, and to allow you to prep in front of the window. Any way you lay out the kitchen, you're going to have a traffic path through the middle, except for a U, which takes most of the dining area. You need to think about how you enter, how guests enter, and how you want to use the kitchen. Here's another plan with a nice prep space, with the appliances arranged more like cpartist suggested, but it keeps the peninsula across the room, and preserves the dining area. You'd have your back to the long hall and front entry--that's probably really bad Feng Shui, but if you'd prefer the sink under the window, then it's a good plan. What size fridge and sink are you planning to use? If you have 118" available on the top wall, and subtract 24" for the cabinet on the right, 30" for a sink, 30" for the fridge, 24" + 2" for the DW and return panel, plus a couple of inches of filler beside the sink cab, that leaves 6" for the pull-out/filler beside the fridge. If the fridge will be enclosed, subtract another 2-3". I don't know if that would be enough to allow the fridge door to open far enough to remove the crisper for cleaning.