I am sorry that I brought up this subject but it is a problem as I own it goes with nothing I have including the external drive. I worry that it will cause conflict with other programs. I have a foggy brain now and I don't know when it is appropriate to stop asking for help. I asked a lot of you and there may be a cut off that I should understand. It is, of course my fault, because this happened before when I got to a critical point in a graphics link. It was a weekend and that has to be the worst time here. I ended up going to a computer service and they did find the problem. I find it an honor to get help from this team who seems to love to help and the challenge. If you are not interested in the question do you ignore it, wait for a knowledgeable person to step in or let time go buy and I will understand. My manners concerning forum etiquette are a mess as I have proven lately.

Sounds like a lot of laptop for the money. Max it out in ram for graphic processing and burning. Bit big and heavy for frequently caring around though. Nothing burns fast on a laptop. Intergrated Graphics cards arent the fastest thing in the world. Nothing wrong with AMD processors, as long as its a mobile processor it wont cook your lap.

I have to agree with Brick on this one. The main issues that arise with Heil,tempstar,goodman and many others is that pretty much anyone can sell/install them or the majority of them which means you sometimes get the short end of the stick on the installation. I will also say that the refinement isn't usually up to par with your Rheem/Ruud,Lennox/American standard,Carrier/Bryant and a few other brands. What I mean is the cabinets and fans/blowers tend to be more noisy. I had a tempstar heat pump and ICP (company name that makes the tempstar) air handler 3.5 ton with 20kw heat strip 13 seer 8eer. If the blower came on while watching tv you had to turn it up cause of the vent noise and this was even after rebuilding the air ducts on a new home. I replaced it with a Ruud 3 ton 15 seer 10.5 eer and 15kw heat strip and we can watch tv with the air handler running and can't hear the outside unit inside the house. The old one used to roar if you went in the 2nd bedroom and it was on. I nicknamed the original installer flat line because that was his brainwaves. I did rebuild and seal the ductwork with mastic like it should have had in the first place which helped TREMENDOUSLY on comfort and noise but it was still obnoxious. The new system is so much nicer but if the old system wasn't t-totally bare bones I would probably be satisfied with it also. No matter what you do I recommend at a minimum Demand Defrost which will pay for itself quickly. TXV (thermal expansion valve) which will keep the humidity much lower than a non txv and allow you to be comfortable at a higher temp in the summer which saves $$$$ also. If possible a variable speed blower motor. On top of these things.. the highest seer/best numbers you can get for your money. OH and find a installer who has a brain and don't just take it out and play with it. I am very happy with my Ruud.

I'm an alarm tech. Apart from things, bugs (silicone the holes in the back of the motion sensor to seal where the wire comes in) triggering it, a moving blind or curtain can trigger it too. A wall hanging could also, if the hvac makes it move. This is why it's not desirable to have two motions on one zone. If it faces a window or something sometimes that can cause falsing. If it's curtains, you can mask the back of the motion's fresnel to block that part off, the motion installers's sheet will explain it (you can usually download these.) Brands generally don't mind being mixed. One thing you could do is disconnect the zone in the panel (are there resistors in there? Another possible issue) put a jumper wire in there across the zone, then put a small relay that's switched by the 'loop' - the sensor output from the motions - and a buzzer, if the bedrooms aren't in use. Watch it for a few days, and see if you can figure out what's causing it. This is an intriguing issue. Another thing that can trigger them is if the dc to the motions is interrupted...they go through a warm up cycle and of course, because they're probably Normally Closed, when the current to the motion is interrupted, the panel sees it as an alarm event. What could be causing it is a loose connection or damage to the wire in the wall. If there's enough slack at both ends, very carefully restrip the outer sheath an inch or two and remake all connections. If it's typical alarm wire, station z (old style 4 conductor phone wire) it's quite easy to nick one of the conductors when stripping the outer sheath, so a nick is likely close to the end. How are the two motions wired together? Are there two wires that run to the panel and are connected in series? Does one motion run to the other and have a splice inside? There may also be a splice in the wall, in which case it could be bad, but I don't know why it takes 2 weeks to have an issue. There are a lot of possibilities here. Timers and electrical interference are two, but unlikely - alarms are generally robust and simple. As for cable length, there ARE limits but in practice some runs can be hundreds of feet without issues. I've attached a link to an alarm forum, you might try for some fresh ideas there. Another thing to try is to remove and bypass one motion, then the other, either reprogramming the motion as a door so you can chime it, or using the buzzer as I suggested. A word to the wise about programming, none of the systems are terribly user-friendly, so you may not want to do that yourself. Another possibility is to see what that zone is programmed as. Also, can the motions see out of the bedrooms into a hallway, and could something in there be tripping them? Here is a link that might be useful: DIY security forum