That's a lot of lettuce. I would plant in two week intervals so that they can be harvested at different times. (especially if it is head lettuce) Lettuce can be planted 4 per sqft, so that's 20 heads. Unless you REALLY love lettuce, that's a lot at one time. If you planted 1 sqft every two weeks, by the time you plant the last square, you would be ready to start over again in the first.

Good luck. I don't think they would be too tough to DIY, provided you are handy. I had no idea how they would be built until I saw them performing the work, so hopefully the pictures will be helpful. When I posted these pictures, they hadn't put the top stone trim piece on the top of the pillar yet, so here is one last picture taken a little closer in of the finished product (pre-paint, of course). I purchased mission style house numbers that we are going to hang vertically down the rightmost column to complete the project.

First off i should say i'm not much of a carpenter. I can do basic stuff, but never tackled anything like windows. I have a 50 year old house that has wooden windows. I blew in insulation in the walls and attic last year. This year i would like to replace the windows, myself. Hopefully next year, vinyl siding. I've been trying to do as much reading as i can on this topic but i'm not sure what type of windows i would need. Replacement windows or pocket windows? I really don't want to tear everything up to put in new construction windows, but if that would be the best way to go, i would consider it. How much more work is involved from pocket windows to replacement windows? Is there any other type that doesn't require alot of experience to replace? I plan on doing it myself, so it would have to be fairly easy. I was also going to try to go with windows from my local Menards. Put it on the card to make it easier. Crestline, Jeld-Wen, Pella. I know Pella is good, but the others are not so great. Average priced windows is what i'm looking for i guess. I do hopefully want to replace a couple of the double hung windows with sliders. I as guessing i would have to enlarge the opening in the wall for that. My neighbor just had some contractors replace all their double hung windows with Elite 4000 sliders. Looks great. Just trying to look for some direction. Thanks in advance for any input. Jerry.

The weed n feed combined products are difficult to use and the results are usually unsatisfactory. I think all the forums will tell you that if you need to fertilize, use a fertilizer. If you need to kill weeds, use a herbicide (spot spray with Weed b Gon of WBG Chickweed, Clover, and Oxalis Killer). It could be the plantain needs the WBG CCO. It's a different bottle of stuff. Read the bottle label to see if 3 weeks is enough time between spraying. You should not get into a ritual of spraying it every few weeks, though. That's asking for trouble. You seeded at a bad time of year. Why? Because now is the time crabgrass seed is germinating. Also because tender new grass shoots will not have sturdy enough roots to live through the summer heat. Fall is THE time to seed northern grasses. As to fertilizer, the grass needs nitrogen. Whether it needs phosphorous or potassium, you can't tell without a soil test (Logan Labs, $25 - best soil test in the country by far). Having said that, you can apply an organic fertilizer like soybean meal, corn meal, alfalfa pellets, Milorganite, or corn gluten meal at any time without fear. These materials feed the soil microbes which, after 3 weeks, will feed the plants. Watering: Deep and infrequent is the mantra for watering. This is for all turf grass all over the place. Deep means 1 inch all at one time. Put some cat food or tuna cans around the yard, and time how long it takes your sprinkler(s) to fill all the cans. Memorize that time. That will be the time you water from now on. My hose, sprinkler and water pressure takes 8 full hours to fill the cans. Your time will likely be less. I like gentle watering. As for watering frequency, that depends on the temperature. With temps in the 90s, deep water once per week. With temps in the 80s, deep water once every 2 weeks. With temps in the 70s, deep water once every 3 weeks. With temps below 70, deep water once a month. Note that you have to keep up with quickly changing temps in the spring and fall. This deep and infrequent schedule works in Phoenix and in Vermont, so it should work for you. The reason for deep and infrequent is to grow deeper, more drought resistant roots and to allow the soil to dry completely at the surface for several days before watering again. If it rains, reset your calendar to account for the rainfall. Mowing: Mulch mow at the mower's highest setting for all lawns except bermuda, centipede, and creeping bentgrass. Those should be mowed at the lowest setting. Fertilizer: As indicated above. Dates are Memorial Day, Labor Day, and about Thanksgiving. Note that these dates do NOT match the dates you will get from TV commercials, local radio stations, and newspaper and magazine articles. These dates are the historical dates used by professional grass farmers and ranchers and have been adopted by the lawn community gurus as being the most appropriate for chemical fertilization. If you use organic fertilizer, you can do that any day of the year, or every day of the year. You cannot go wrong with organics unless you bury the grass in it. Spray on fertilizer is good for a few days up to a week. Grass needs pounds of nitrogen to last from season to season. All you get with a spray is fractional diluted ounces of nitrogen.