kashmi - your dealer is an idiot, plain and simple. steam doesn't matter ???? ask him the worst possible thing that can be trapped in today's tightly built homes? He won't know cause he's an idiot but it's warm, moist air. You wouldn't consider not having a fan in your shower/bath - why? Warm moist air. Now, cooking steam doesn't present near the amount or problems a shower does but to say steam (from cooking) doesn't matter is ridiculous. What about odors? Grease is not the only thing that smells! Now, as to the height of the downdraft extension- sure taller is better all other things being equal (which often they are not). It gives a broader capture area for that steam and grease because the filter area is generally larger on a taller vent. On some you can vary the height of the extension so you'd have the best of all worlds: catch the grease that your sales weasel is soooooooo concerned about AND catch the steam ABOVE that skyscraper lobster pot. Be wary of this fella.

Definitely go with the highest one you can find, especially with gas, as the downdraft will try and "tug" at the flames. If price is an issue and you can deal with a basic slide switch, look at the Bosch, it is a few hundred less than the Thermador, but essentially the same beast. KitchenAid also has a 14" one now, don't know who is making that one. I have the Bosch and I am pretty happy with it as far as downdrafts go. I still wouldn't expect a lot of "capture" when using the front burners. (50% max) I also suggest an inline or remote blower to reduce sound levels and as many CFMs as you can afford.

I hope you do. Ones done by people who've owned an appliance for a while are the most helpful. I feel like I'm still in the burn off period. Sorry I don't have a lot of photos to show - most are documentation. It's not completely installed. The range came with an optional spacer for the back and we will be installing that onto the back of the backsplash. Without that piece, the crack between the oven door and the oven is a little too far back and the island trim vents a little too close to the wall. It's not a fire hazard - just makes fluid on the wall. We're buying the "L" shaped trim kit for the sides so they will lap over the counter edges a little. That will stop the rain-of-terror where things go down between the end of the counter and the range. this one is just a little bit smaller than the NXR. We've spent a little while deciding what to do about the shortness of the legs. We're thinking put the entire thing up on 3/4" wood runners screwed through the floor and into the subfloor. The anti-tip bracket would be mounted on the runner. Since that will look a little clumsy, maybe a tiny little toe kick in front of it? Or Dacor sells a little stainless toe kick for this range. It's removable but a little costly.

The determination of "subfloor" would be part of your contract with the installer/shop. If you PAID for new underlayment to be added (to match the requirements for the floor installed) then you are supposed to get "what you paid for". If the underlayment upgrade was not part of your "job" (you didn't pay for it therefore it is not part of their contractual obligation to do it), then the subfloor that is THERE (in your home) is owned 100% by you. The person who walked through your home and who assessed your subfloor (so they could write an accurate installation quote) is the person who you chat with about the "appropriateness of subfloor material at time of installation". I can't tell you who is responsible for the thickness because I don't know what your job entailed. It all hangs upon the contract for the work. If you paid for new 23/32" OSB subfloor to be laid, then you should have received the product. If you did NOT pay for it, then the condition of the subfloor is, sadly and very frustratingly, on you. Please check the contract and your purchase from the store to find out if your job contained "plywood" of any sort. And yes, some types of nails or staples can make some interesting noises when punched into wood (OSB is particularly upsetting because it can create more noise than others....but if it is the RIGHT OSB then it should be OK). But this is the very reason why many installers avoid OSB like the plague. In this situation it is allowed....but there are many independent installers who won't go near it....for this very reason.