Are you still working on this? I have questions about more than the fridge. This is an awkward layout and there is enough space there that I think you must have better options. Have you looked at moving the dining room entry to the right? Shifting an opening is not a huge ordeal, even if that is a load bearing wall (not sure if it is but someone mentioned the possibility in an earlier post). I'll try to post something mocked up best my crude skills allow here. As I have it, I think that would be a 36" fridge and there is a pinch point. I'm not sure of the depth there, but with a counter depth, an 18" DW or some other tweaks with proper measurements, I think you could improve the function of the space. On the dining room side, any crown would remain or be replaced above the opening and a good contractor should be able to adjust the baseboards. Keep working the plan until you get the kinks out. I lived with two horrible kitchens (we're talking 2 burners and they aren't flat or heat that well, dying ovens, DW tiled in and praying it wouldn't die -- even though it was so loud I hated to run it) for ten years between the two of them until I was able to do my kitchen. I learned a lot along the way and had time to explore outside the box ideas, come back and go off in different directions. All that exploration really paid off in the end, and I plan to use it long enough to make up for any delays. Anyway, here's one rough idea in case you hadn't though of it.

I will go check out some of the fridges, and see if I can find one that will work with just a 3"-4" filler. Oceanbaby, if you haven't yet purchased your fridge, this might not be a problem for you. As paulines and others have mentioned here when this has come up, there are refrigerators that require less door opening space than others. Some are fine at 90 degrees, others just a little more. Get the info on these fridges from those folks and start shopping! Like rhome410, I have only had refrigerators that required the door to open more than 90 degrees. A lot of other folks have also expressed their frustration with a design that didn't allow them access into their refrigerator drawers. You should also find out what fridges they had. My current fridge (a KA counter-depth side-by-side) requires the door to be open much more than 90 degrees to open the drawers at all--not just for cleaning. I would not want to have to remove the shelves on the door every time I wanted in one of my drawers. As much as I love this fridge, I would have to tell you to avoid it in your kitchen.

Not sure I get your challenge, but I think I might get it so will tell you what we did in a similar situation. Our fridge is in an old mud room and has a door frame on each side of it. For the reasons you describe neither a side-by-side fridge or a french door fridge would work for us. We limited our search to fridges with a bottom freezer and a top refrigerator section with 1 door. We ended up with a 33" Fisher Paykel counterdepth with water dispenser in the door and ice in the bottom. Our other option was a Liebherr that was 36" wide but it was $5500 and would have required a cabinet remodel since the original fridge was 33" wide. The downside to the Fisher is it's only 17 cubic feet. The downside to the Liebherr was the cost. We are two and so are managing with the smaller fridge (we have an extra fridge in our basement). I think there were only ~27 fridges that meet our basic dimension criteria with a top single door. AJ Madison can help you narrow down your options. Good luck.

IMO if you go with plain old stainless they will work together and honestly the handles are just fine as they are . The fridge should be counter depth .I like a separate water dispenser on my counter by the sink connected to water filter either under the sink or in the basement . I do love an ice maker but I don’t care if it is in the door .Please make sure that fridge placement will allow the doors to open fullyLooking at the 3D what is that thing beside the stove?