Raggedyann, I'm feeling bonded with you already. I too love Irises and Hostas, and now am looking to get a few, just a few, daylilies. How can this happen? I only have a little space left, and am getting up there in years and cannot do as much as I used to, but I sure would love some daylilies. Where can I find out what they need as far as light and soil requirements, also what zones are they hardy in? I guess I need to do some research before I buy any. I have 2 Stella's that are HUGE and need dividing. Don't know what I'd do with the leftovers, and it kills me to throw away good plants. What do I do?

ahreno, you can free up a bit of space by either changing the door to an outward swing or to a pocket door. Unfortunately, the 2 drawings don't show up well on my monitor so I can't see the shaded blue area. I'd guess it shows as darker grey with a 92" ceiling. If so, by incorporating this closet into your bath, working from the alcove to the tub, you can easily place a toilet, pedestal sink or vanity and a frameless shower stall on the 107" wall perpendicular to your tub along the 84" wall. If you don't add the 92" H area, you'll need to incorporate the red area into the larger closet. You'll be left with a 68 X 84 room. Then you can place a sink where the door currently swings in and may want to place the toilet in front of the wall that the pocket door slides into. The tub still works on the 84" wall and a 36 x 28 tight shower will fit. Not ideal but it gives you the luxury of a fully glassed in single person shower, your large claw foot tub and the necessities. Obviously, you can have a much more spacious scenario by incorporating the closet area, but this gives you an option.

Bill / Debbie - thanks. The reason is the range will not likely come all the way down to the floor. Depending on what range we get (a different saga) it would sit on legs and the gap between the floor and bottom of the front trim would be 3" or 4". So you will be able to see under it some. I actually envisioned the gap being more but just checked some specs. Without having it in place, its hard to envision how far back you can see. Perhaps I don't need to worry at all, or perhaps I need to worry just about one row of tiles. gdoke - thanks - yes, that was my thought with my option 3 - a different tile in such a way to make it look intentional (in case it can be seen)

jubillee....nice design and you've done your homework. I would also recommend having only 1 step instead of 2 steps for the transition from 3'6" to the tanning shelf and to the sitting bench. We originally did not have a step from our 3'6" depth up to the 18" tanning shelf depth and added 1 step during gunite after we seen how much of an effort it was to step up to the 18" depth from the 3'6" depth....2 steps is too many in my opinion. By the way...we use that step all the time and are glad we did it. I see you call out a transition tile between the two different plaster colors. That's exactly what we did but to hide the transition tile and make the transition look more natural, we wrapped the plaster around the edge of the tanning shelf and placed the transition tile on the vertical edge of the tanning shelf instead of the horizontal face which would have been easily visible when looking down at the tanning shelf...hope this makes sense. It appears from your depths that this may be a sport pool with the 3.5 to 6.5 to 3.5 depth profile....are you considering a volleyball net in the middle of the pool...just curious because I did not see the volleyball anchors. Regarding pumps, I would recommend a separate pump for the waterfalls and bubblers and its size will depend on how large your waterfall is...your plumber or local expertise can help with this size selection. For the filter pump, slower speeds will result in better filtration, reduced energy and longer cycle times which is generally good for salt water pools and chlorine generation. I would recommend a 2 speed or variable speed for this task. Hope this helps!