Room dimensions: Master is 14'6" x 17"6". Plus an alcove in the longest dimension that adds another 5'6" of length (alcove is only 7'6" wide). Have no idea what the tray should do there.

Family Rm is 16'6" x 14'6".

Don't know how far in from the outside wall you have to come to get that 1-foot bump-up. We want the tray to start as soon as possible at that edge.

Do want some overhead lighting fixtures, not recessed, so I can see to clean the floors mostly. So, it'll need to go in the tray section. Very simple, close to ceiling.

Our tray ceiling in the master bedroom is very simple, and was a good way for us to get that additional height without much additional money. I have a few pictures from our blog:

http://hmp2z.wordpress.com/2007/06/16/its-looking-more-like-a-house/
(Scroll all the way to the bottom of this post)

http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL480/2309041/13359895/252126044.jpg
Cheers!
Heather W

Here is a link that might be useful:

hmp2z: thanks a lot. That's what we want. Looks like the tray adds about 2 feet in height? Ours will only add one.

Is the amount of slope at the sides something we have a choice about? If we have a choice, and with only a one foot rise, I'm trying to visualize whether a gradual slope would look better or a sudden one.

I'm guessing the side slope partly depends on how far they have to come in from the outside wall before they can achieve the 1 foot rise. Our roof is a 6/12 pitch.

My ignorance of construction details is showing here.

bj, apparently I know even less than you...could you explain why the tray ceilings are less expensive? Is it because the wall height overall is 9'? It seems like they would add cost, but perhaps they are less compared to a flat 10' ceiling because of lumber & framing costs? We have a couple areas on our plan that have tray ceilings and overall the main level has 9' wall heights with those trays and some areas vaulted. In the kitchen the ceiling has a soffit out about 18" then it vaults up and we may be changing these things depending on the costs.

As for your question, yes they can be simple I see them all the time with no trim at all, they even look nice when you carry the wall color all the way up over the ceiling or paint the tray area or just the flat area a contrasting color. This would give some detail without trim and of course paint costs less than wood!

Here are some simple tray ceilings one with contrasting paint. Hope this helps.

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luckymom23: thanks for the photos. Here's the cost situation: Flat ceilings are always cheaper to build than non-flat ceilings. (We wanted 10', all flat.) BUT, for every foot--no, inch--you increase the top plate (basically, the place where your ceiling and walls meet on your EXTERIOR walls) you add costs. For us, we're using more expensive exterior wall siding (brick) and insulation (Icynene), so the costs are even greater as we move up toward those 10 foot walls/ceilings we want. But for all houses there are increased lumber costs--more of it--and costs for all the other components of an exterior wall.

A way to save a good bit of money, then, is to reduce the height of your exterior walls and use the attic space (if it's available to you) to increase the ceiling height by bumping the interior-only framing up into it.

Now, someone would have to calculate how many bump-ups you wanted (in every room??) and how elaborate the trim, etc, on them, as opposed to a plain flat ceiling. Then compare that with the savings on your particular house's exterior siding and wall assemblies. More labor to build higher wall, but compare that with the bumped-up ceilings' labor.

Am I making sense? BTW, Cathedral ceilings are always expensive.

The best way to realize the savings from the lower exterior wall height is to minimize the number and elaboration of the bump-up ceilings you use inside. That's why we're only doing it on two of ours. If the main height were going to be only 8 feet, we'd have to bump up more of them. I get claustrophobic under 8-footers except in small rooms.

For us, it's the best compromise. Not our ideal choice.

Bj, I'm very intrigued by this idea...BTW, I really think that you could be an owner-builder/self-GC. The points you bring up are the ones that I'm always wondering about! So thank you! Anyway, if I'm building a two story house, with 4 bedrooms on the top floor, would it then make sense to have 8 ft ceilings, and 4 tray ceilings in the bedrooms? I don't care so much about closets, laundry room, etc, so this seems like a really good cost-saver... Thanks for pointing this out!

BJ, Our master has a tray, and many of the features you say you don't want (my feelings are hurt BTW :) )

But, I wanted to post this photo to illustrate something that I feel is important in a tray. You mentioned the alcove. I think a tray needs to reflect the alcove in most situations, otherwise the alcove looks like an add on. Our master was originally a square with square tray. We added the bay window, which bumps out 2.5' We then changed the tray to reflect the new shape of the room. The builder actually framed our tray as a square still, and it made the bay windows look "tacked" on.

We are so pleased with this ceiling! I don't know the layout of your alcove, but you should consider this.

Here is a link that might be useful:

tragusa3: thanks for the picture. I see exactly what you mean about the add-on. Sorry your feelings are hurt. We're just doing a more contemporary house because we're really plain and simple people, subject to distraction by details. Your house is more beautiful than ours will be because of the trim, etc. But ours will suit us better. Gorgeous windows, BTW.

juniork: You need to check with your builder about the savings. I don't know anything about your second story, where your HVAC ductwork is going, what the roof trusses are like on your house--all of the things you need to know. But your builder will. Thanks for the compliment, but I'm barely holding my own with the real experts when they talk to me. I research a lot so I'll know when I'm getting lied to; it's self-defense. I'd rather chew nails than GC my own house.

bj, I was just being funny with the comment of my feelings being hurt. Everyone has a preference and we should all get what we want. Not offended in the least. :)

I have no idea if this would be possible or even fit your style, but years ago houses had cove moldings, just a gentle curve in the corners of a room connecting the walls and ceilings. The house I grew up in had them. No angles at all.

I'm wondering how cathedral ceilings are expensive if you have that shape already in the attic. Seems it would be a wash whether you drywall the existing angles or create a flat ceiling. (Lower is better as far as HVAC costs, of course!) Which reminds me -- be sure your HVAC takes those tray ceilings into consideration.

chisue: I wonder how they did the coved moldings. Was it plaster?

Sorry, I have no clue as to what makes the cathedrals more expensive exactly; I think it might be a combination of things. You do have more drywall in the cathedral shape than the flat ceiling, but there must be more to it than that. One architect said he figures them at 150% of the cost factor of a flat ceiling.

For us, the tray ceilings were a cost saving measure, and we also thought that they added some visual interest to the master bedroom. We did our upstairs (only master bedroom & bath are on the 2nd floor) with 8 foot ceilings, and then we trayed up the master bedroom ceilings to get that additional height without much additional money. We saved on drywall & exterior finishes, which outweighed the added labor for the tray.

We didn't care if the master bathroom was just 8' ceilings; we have a large, open shower, so the lower the ceiling, the better to collect that steam on the few cold mornings that we do have here in FL.

Cheers!
Heather W

Here is a link that might be useful: Our ICF Home Construction Journal

bj -- I know the house (built c. 1938) was lath and plaster; probably the ceiling was, too. It was a very smooth, quiet look.

hmp2z: I'm liking the tray the more I look at yours. Our master bath will also be lower ceiling. We like to super-heat it for showers, so the lower ceiling does help with that.

chisue: My first house was built in 1938! Had the lath and plaster walls. Unfortunately, I bought it in 1975, just in time to climb on a ladder and learn how to repair plaster cracks. That part I do not miss. They have a beauty like no other, though.

I know this isn't probably a cost effective ceiling or probably even what you are looking for, but I had to post it. It is very unusual. I've never seen a ceiling like this ever. I thought it would look great in a contemporary style home.

Here is a link that might be useful:

eventhecatisaboy: Wow! It is striking. Not our taste, but somebody needs to do it. I'd do nothing but stare at the ceiling if I were under it. I have enough problems maintaining focus without that kind of distraction.

Oh my goodness! I have never seen a ceiling like that in my life, eventhecatisaboy!! That is so cool! I'm with bj, I would simply stare at it for hours, while the laundry just continued to pile up around me:-)

bj and amyks: I couldn't believe my eyes with that ceiling either and frankly I was surprised to see it in that particular home. It's not my style, but I thought with the right house, it would look great. Maybe in a contemporary/asian style? I think it's different in a good way and definitely a conversation piece! (I personally would feel like the sky was falling on me! LOL!)