An un-PC question on how to improve shower water pressure
15 years ago
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- 15 years ago
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Soil, Watering, Fertilizer and questions for Al (tapla)
Comments (24)Finally I got all the ingredients for the gritty mix, to my surprise, the hardest to find is the pine bark fine(I still did not find it). I am using the Repti Bark for now (a little pricy -$19.99 for a 24 quart bag). But do not want to wait any more, will use Repti Bark for now whereas keep looking for I Pine bark fines. Well, I have to say the particle size of Turface and Gran-I-Grit is smaller than I thought although I saw so many pictures on GW. I still do not have Foliage Pro 9-3-6, But I got Osmocote Outdoor & Indoor plant food. The ratio is 19-6-12 ( close to 9-3-6), is that ok for now (Will order Foliage Pro from internet later. I got some Jade Plant, Christmas Cactus, Spider Plant and Some NOID succulents cuttings before I found all the ingredients. I put them in the Miracle Grow Potting Mix and they rooted already. But like most people find out already, the bagged potting mix is so hard to water when it drys - the water just stay on the top of the soil. I was repotting them (except the spider plant) into the new gritty mix this afternoon. I did not even screen the Turface and Gran-I-Grit as I have not gotten the hardware cloth to make the filter yet. But I did shake the bag before I opened the Turface to hope the smaller particles will fall to the bottom. This is how it looks after I mix the three ingredients. Follow the tradition, a dime in the center Then put the mix and Osmocote into a soaked pot, water it well until water come out from the drainage hole. Soak the cutting that grown in the bagged potting mix, Remove most of the soil from the root - but not all - intimated by afraid broke the root. Put the plant into the gritty mix. It is actually hard to make a proper hole to put the roots in - the gritty mix is heavy so they keep falling into the hole you make for the roots. Final results: How do they look? Am I doing it right. I also have some Spider plant rooted, not sure is gritty mix good for them too. I had the impression that gritty mix is very good for woody plant, but Spider plant is somewhat herb? Should I put them in 5:1:1 mix. (I do not think I will make 5:1:1 mix though, since pine bark fines are not available and Repti bark is pricy). Also, Does anybody know the ID for the two plants on the last picture (the one that not Christmas Cactus or Jade Plant) And if anybody knows where to find pine bark fines in new England area, please let me know. Thanks....See Morecheckvalves, water pressure
Comments (10)Many people measure the static pressure at the point where their water line enters the structure and erroneously assume that the pressure should remain constant throughout the structure when the water is flowing, but such is not the case. Static pressure is just what the name implies, the pressure when the system is static, or in laymen's terms, when the system is at rest with no flow. The moment flow begins the static pressure will instantly drop to "Dynamic Pressure" (working pressure), which is static pressure minus "Vertical Static Head Loss" and "Friction Head Loss". Water physically weighs 0.434pounds per vertical foot column therefore if we pump water up hill we lose 0.434psi for each foot of vertical rise, and consequently, if the point of demand is lower than the prime mover, such as a house connected to a municipal main where the house is downhill from the connection, we would gain 0.434psi for each foot of vertical differential. now while Vertical Static Head Loss is very simple to compute, "Friction Head Loss" (FHL) is another matter entirely. FHL is a loss of pressure and flow caused by the water physically rubbing the inside of the pipe walls and eddy currents or restrictions generated by fittings in the pipe run. If one wants to be technically precise they must have a list of all fittings in the pipe run, from the prime mover to the point of demand, then consult a "Fitting Allowance Table" to determine the fitting loss for each fitting. Fitting Allowances are expressed in the equivalent length of straight pipe that would represent the same friction loss. By example, the fitting allowance for a 1/2" copper 90deg elbow is .6ft. For simplicity when estimating FHL the code allows us a shortcut. First we determine the actual length of all piping from the source to the point of demand, then multiply that length by 1.2 to compensate for fitting allowances and yield TDL (Total Developed Length). Maximum volume of flow is determined by the size of the orifice in the valve at the demand point. Once we know the volume of flow and the TDL of the pipe we then consult a publshed Friction Head Loss table to determine the amount of pressure loss, which is either expressed in psi/ft or sometimes in psi/100ft. In addition to Friction Head Loss the table will express the velocity of flow for a specific volume in a given size of pipe. Velocity of flow is very important for two reasons, 1. the higher the velocity of flow, the higher the friction loss and 2. if the velocity of flow exceeds 12ft/sec in copper or or 15ft/sec in plastic pipe we end up with excessive pipe wall erosion, therefore the codes limit us to 8ft/sec in copper and 12ft/sec in plastic pipe. To give you an example of how it all comes together, under the IRC (International Residential Code) the minimum allowable static head pressure at the water main is 40psi however according to the specifications on IRC Table T 2903.1 the minimum pressure for a hose bibb is 8psi with a flow rate of 5gpm. When you add a conventional garden hose to that hose bibb, the friction loss in the hose is 2 to 3 times the friction head loss of an equivalent length of pipe. Adding to that, a hose nozzle and its easy to see why your flow is diminished....See MoreKitchen Hot Water - house with low water pressure
Comments (10)OK, i take it back. 1st. Before the copper pipe in the house, you may have galvanized pipe outdoors. The municipality has to replace it. ( "... i think its more a problem from the street as neighbors complain as well..." ) If the entire house was a low-flow (or low pressure) problem, this is the cause. It will be felt as a low pressure problem because of the restricted flow. This is called dynamic pressure. But before you turn on the tap, the pressure might be (static pressure). A pressure mater is inexpensive, easy to get at a hardware store, and easy to install. It will help you identify your problem more clearly. Or, you could just ask the city to change the supply pipes, since you and several neighbors all have the same problem. You have to let a fairly large quantity of water flow, in any case, to get really hot water to the sink "for cleaning pots and pans" The need is to get Hot Water to the kitchen. This does not depend on the 1st thing above. If the flow and pressure are low, it will increase the time you have to wait. But nothing will change this for the better. Except one thing: new city supply pipes (outside). The Distance between the kitchen and the hot water source is what determines the amount of wasted water before you get hot water. That, and whether the pipe is 1/2" or 3/4". Where is your tank? It is normal for the first several seconds to feel warm water, not hot. This is because the heat is being lost to the pipe at first. Once the pipe itself gets warmed up, the water temperature at the faucet is much higher. Hope this helps. Here is a link that might be useful: pressure versus volume, in 3/4in. or 1/2in. pipe...See MoreImproving water pressure to outside spigot
Comments (15)My preference would be neutralizer (2 in parallel, or one larger)==>iron removal (there are a variety of options - often the best choice is the one your local treatment folks are most familiar with, but I'll post a list of options to consider)==> GAC (you may find it unnecessary with proper iron filtration) ==> softener. Some iron removal options: Softener: You are already living with this method - A softener with specialty resin is capable of removing dissolved iron, up to 7 ppm (mg/L) but asking a softener to remove iron at those upper limits is really pushing it. In addition, a softener will become fouled with particulate iron over time. I don't recommend this method but, in your case only, it has the benefit of already being installed. Oxidation/Filtration: An oxidizer such as ozone, air, or chlorine may be used to react with the iron and force it to become particulate iron that can then be removed via filtration. This will also remove most sulfur compounds. A typical setup would involve the oxidizing unit, a holding tank, then a media filter. This type of system works quite well, but takes some expertise in sizing - you would want a water treatment pro that you trust to help you with this option. Oxidizing filtration media: This type of treatment consists of a sealed tank filled with one of several media. Water passes through and is oxidized and filtered by the media. Most will remove sulfur compounds as well as iron. These are relatively easy to operate and what I would recommend for the average homeowner. There are several different media that can be used: Manganese greensand: water runs through for treatment. The media must be regenerated with potassium permanganate. Care must be taken with dealing with potassium permanganate as it readily dies organic material, such as your skin, a purple-brown color. Some people are quite comfortable dealing with the chemical; others are not. Synthetic greensand: This is essentially the same as option (a) but consists of a coating of greensand on a silica sand core so does not require as much backwash flow. Service flow rate is 2 - 5 gpm/sqft. Backwash flow rate is 12 gpm/sqft. Birm: This media acts as a catalyst to force oxidation of iron. While it does not need to be regenerated, it does need fairly high dissolved oxygen in the water. If your water does not have adequate dissolved oxygen (and it probably doesn't since it is well water), air injection would be necessary prior to the birm. Additionally, birm requires a minimum pH of 6.8. Service flow rate is 3.5 - 5.0 gpm per sqft. Backwash flow rate is 11 - 20 gpm, depending upon water temperatures and desired bed expansion. It is old tech so lots of water treatment pros know how to use it. Pyrolox: an ore that oxidizes then filters the iron out. It does not need regeneration, but needs to be backwashed (to rinse out the iron) at a high rate. pH range is 6.5 - 9.0. This type of filter works very well, but backwash is critical. Service flow rate is 5 gpm/sqft. Backwash is 25-30 gpm/sqft. Backwash daily. Terminox: Similar to Pyrolox, but a proprietary formula . It does not require as much backwash flow rate and is more resistance to a low pH. The particulars are only available from the company that sells it. Backwash daily. Filox: Also similar to Pyrolox. pH range 5.0 - 9.0. Backwash flow 12-15 gpm/sqft. Service flow 6 gpm/sqft. It must be backwashed daily. This one may be a good fit for you as it can take the lower pH. If you choose this option, your treatment order could be: Filox==>Neutralizer==>GAC (maybe)==>softener...See More- 15 years ago
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