I'm trying to decide on a medicine cabinet, and there seem to be a very large selection of widths and heights. I'm re-doing a very small full bathroom. I'm using a 24"-wide pedestal sink, with a curved front, that does not look massive: http://www.homeannex.com/prodView.asp?idProduct=163933&utm_source=SiteCha&utm_medium=Search&utm_term=Kallista%20Hampstead&utm_campaign=SLI&Sku=P72018&Title=Kallista-Hampstead-24"-Pedestal I'm thinking of either a framed polished nickel cabinet from Restoration Hardware or a frameless mirrored cabinet from Robern. I'd prefer sconces on either side of the cabinet rather than a fixture over the cabinet. Right now, the center of the existing medicine cabinet is 16" from the corner, and I am not going to be able to place the sink much further from the wall than that. The current medicine cabinet is 16" wide, leaving 8" for a sconce. How much wider could I make the medicine cabinet and still have room for sconces, and not have it look too wide for the sink? And how tall should I make it? The ceilings are 9' high. There will also be a glass shelf above the sink and below the medicine cabinet.

This type of cabinet with a flush, concealed door (called a jib door) is usually something that is custom built on site. There may be some sort of cabinet interior fitting that is available on an off-the-shelf basis, but the door would almost certainly need to be custom fabricated to match the surrounding walls.

Thank you boxerpups! Wonderful pictures... Jesscam1, my backsplash is a compromise with my husband (yes, he cares! : ( ) I wanted subway or marble, he wanted a diagonal wave tile (subway frame). It will be white, so hopefully it won't be a detractor. So I am wondering if the brackets should go all the way to the end of the cabinet...love the corbels in the kitchen with hammered copper hood above (very much like the somethings gotta give house). Thanks again all for the inspirational pics. : ) have a great night.--

Hi Juno - from what I've learned, it really depends on how big the shelf needs to be and how much weight you'll be putting on it. If its just a few tchotchkes then you should be fine with an "off the shelf" shelf and mounting hardware. There are quite a few places that sell these kinds of shelves, link below. You can also build the shelves yourself with a little elbow grease - google "torsion box shelves" for instructions. That seems to be the popular choice and would give you a lightweight alternative. Also look up "french cleat" for mounting hardware - that also seems to be a popular way to attach them. If you do decide to go with solid wood, that Hafele hardware at the top of the page is for solid shelves and would provide the invisible support you're probably looking for. They have an option for masonry installation and it looks like they come with pretty detailed instructions. We're going to have to DIY the hardware for ours because our shelves will be so deep and long and I want triple assurance the things won't pull off the wall when I load them up. I placed an order yesterday with a local saw mill - they're going to give us ripped and planed boards to glue together ourselves, and then we'll take them back so they can plane them again to the correct thickness and clean up the ends. I'll sand and stain them myself, and then according to ctycdm's instructions above we'll affix them to the walls. Hope this helps! EDIT: Also, FWIW, I calculated the weight of our longest shelf (approx 75"x12"x2") to be 32 lbs. I also found this online which gives you the approx weight of lumber depending on how dry it is... http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/green-kiln-dried-pressure-treated-lumber-weights-d_1860.html Here is a link that might be useful: Prefab shelves This post was edited by Swentastic on Wed, Oct 8, 14 at 13:17