Thanks, pepperidge farm :) Sounds like you have the response I always used to have when I saw mosaics before I started doing them...if you get started you won't stop, I'll warn you :) In this case, I got the tiles as seconds at Pratt & Larson (see above post), and then have just been playing 'organize-the-dishwasher' (as my family likes to call it--I'm a bit obsessive about that too :)) until I like what I see. Most of them have some degree of sparkle to them, opalescence, and I didn't use any crackle. I have three long pencil tiles going through each 25" span to keep some sense of direction--now that I see it I'm wondering if I should have put in more...not too late, actually, and I have some more...hmmm, it's not finished until they take it away from you, right? :) So mongo, I am waiting to order until I hear what your thoughts are--would you share? Or were you just curious whether I'd bought one yet? You know I will wait for your thoughts on any issue, so TIA as always :)

Thanks Bill; I guess something was bound not to be well thought out- at least it isn't the shower pan or other disaster area. Hey, at least we are not paying someone else to do a stinky job ;-) We can do it ourselves for free! I have my dremel all set to go and I will get the finish off (I really don't know why I didn't think about that when I started finishing it?? I have been a little overworked at my day job). I may use some mesh tape and get a skim coat on the tile edge before putting them up, unless I get some more cringing posts... I have room to increase the grout line a little there. The rest of the bathroom exceeded my hopes, is otherwise structurally well done, and esthetically wonderful. Thank-you guys so very much for the advice and guidance- we couldn't have done it without!

For the deck, my technique: Yes, for a "generic" installation you frame it, then use CDX ply on the top of the frame, then 15 lb felt on top of the ply, then use thinset and screws to set the cement board on top of the ply/felt. If you think you'll be getting a lot of water/splashing on the tub deck, you can treat the top surface of the cement board instead of using felt underneath the cement board. Use RedGard, Kerdi, or some other topical waterproofing to better protect the deck. You can also run the waterproofing up the walls a little bit. Here's where paths can diverge regarding tub installation. After the cement board is installed, some will install the tub and leave it shimmed high so that the deck tiles can be slipped under the tub's rim when the tiling is done at a later date. Others will tile the deck first, then drop the tub in on top of the tile. Some others even drop the tub in with the rim in contact with the cement board, then tile up to the edge of the tub rim, and caulk the gap. I prefer tiling the deck completely then dropping the tub in on top of the tile. You only put the mortar bed down at the moment when you are ready to set the tub. And remember, it's the base of the tub (mortar bed) that supports the tub, not the rim. You don't want the tub "hanging" from the rim. The mortar bed (or tub feet for a non-mortared installation) should support the tub with the rim just contacting the tile. After the tub is set you can make the plumbing connections, test for leaks, then tile the front apron. For a soaking tub there's generally no need to treat the adjacent walls unless you think your soaks will create the occasional tidal wave. If you're going to add a baseboard or trim piece where the tub deck meets the wall, you can fold the tar paper (or previously mentioned Kerdi or Redgard) up the wall a few inches and cover it with the trim piece. Some people also run a row of tile on the wall as a transition. Caulk the junction where the tub deck meets the wall trim or wall tile. There should be no need to remove and replace the existing wall board around a soaking tub installation. I do all the work myself, so I can control the work order and shift from one thing to another. If you're subbing out the tile, you might be better served by arranging things so your tiler can tile everything at once to minimize site visits and installation costs. In that case an access panel for the plumbing would help.

1) If it's a single thin strip, sure you can omit the plywood. 3) You can install the tub and tile to the rim. You just need purdy cut lines on your tile so it all looks good. Also think about water. Where will the water go if a splash of water goes over the edge of the tub? Will it infiltrate that seam between the tile and the edge of the tub rim? That's about it. If you can detail it for water and cut tile so it looks good, no worries. And apologies for the tardy reply, I was out of town for a few days.