Thanks, advertguy. I think I can picture what you did now. I had thought you put the marble *on* the tub, and I was wondering how you attached it -- but now I understand you put it *under* the lip of the tub, and then tiled up to it. That's an interesting idea I might consider, although it might be hard for me to bring the front end out the extra two inches because of the depth of the alcove; I want the tiled face of the tub to be a flush continuation of the full wall entry to the bathroom, and I think I'd need to move a wall a few inches to do what you did. But thanks for the idea, and thanks for the lead on the Kohler tub! By the way, do you have any regrets about using an acrylic tub versus porcelain-on-steel (what we have in our 30-year old tub now) or cast iron (which seems to me to bean unnecessary extra expense for a fixture in a guest bathroom we don't use often) or other tub materials. I know some people have very strong opinions about what type of tub they want, but having never bought a new tub before, I don't think I really care as long as it looks and feels okay. -- Eric

I like the look of the Victoria & Albert tubs but they all seem to be freestanding. xc60- Thank you for the information about the acrylic tubs being hard to clean. I kept reading threads where people said they didn't like acrylic but some didn't indicate why they didn't like it. I was drawn to the idea of the Basc heated feature that Kohler is offering on some of the newer tubs but it sounds like it hasn't been around very long so I might worry about the longevity of it. I heading out to Ferguson now to take another look. At this point, I'm leaning towards the Memoirs, but we'll see.

Bill, thanks for the reply.. Attached is a photo of the exterior wall. The tub lip will be near the top edge of the lower piece of blue insulation. With the window, the additional furring around it, and the cross furring there is not that much rigid insulation. The plywood on the exterior wall was to take the place of furring strips to move the durarock out to fully overhang the tub. This would also give me more to screw the durarock to. As a byproduct, I hoped to gain a bit more insulation. Is the concern more the plywood (as opposed to furring strips which would allow more air movement), or is it the rigid insulation trapping moisture, or the combination? Would plywood be ok if there was no rigid insulation? From other posts, it was recommended that if using fiberglass with kraft facing, to cut the kraft paper face every foot. This would allow moisture to escape. Since the rigid insulation is not wider than a foot I thought it would allow sufficient moisture migration. As an alternative, I could just peel 1 inch of unfaced fiberglass insulation and place it on the exterior wall instead of the rigid insulation. I did this in the paneled basement that has a similar exterior wall (and it helped). Or if the concern is more the plywood, I could put furring strips in. Yes the existing furring strips were not very level. I replaced 2 (both sides of window), and added another just above the tub lip (for screws). Then with the plywood, shims and screws planned to make the surface more level for the durarock. From your post, I interpret that you may also be suggesting durarock directly on the existing furring strips (with vapor barrier). Thus no plywood or additional furring strips to move the durarock out farther and fully over the tub lip. Floating the wall might be easier, but I have my experience with thinset and tile so hoped to stick with that. For the 1.5 2 inches on the ends, I was going to again use plywood to furr the wall out. I planned to split the difference and make up some of the gap on each end. However, based on your suggestion I now plan to sister the 2x4 on the back wall and put most of the 1.5-2 inches there. Attached is a photo of the floor for completeness. I added another joist (2nd out from wall) between a steel I-beam and a wall that sits on a concrete floor below. The new joist was cross braced to the existing joist along the exterior wall. It was placed to sit under the left set of feet on the tub. The position of the tub feet are marked with white paper in the photo. I then used joist hangers to support the joist to be cut (3rd out from wall). I placed the cross support to sit almost under the right front tub foot. I then cross braced to support the tub left back foot. So all the tub feet will sit directly over a structural member. The tub feet are referenced from someone sitting in the tub facing the drain.

From reading all of this it is apparent to me that the DIY methods are radically different from the old school plumbers methods. Everyone is talking about running to the hardware store and replacing the stem and such. I must be getting Alzheimer's or something because I honestly can't remember the last time I actually had to replace a stem. In the trade the old school plumbers all have a small metal multi-compartmented box that holds a complete assortment of both flat & beveled faucet washers, an assortment of Bib screws, brass cup washers and hopefully a pair of bottoming taps for the screw threads. In addition we have a roll of stem packing material and a couple specialty tools, a handle puller and a set of plumbers sockets. Now I would not expect a homeowner to purchase a complete Sexauer Washer set at $55 but you can buy a complete assortment of washers at any hardware store for about $2 and keep them in your tool box. Begin by turning the water off at an angle stop, a zone valve or at the main if necessary, then open the faucet and drain the line. Remove the handle retaining screw, then use the handle puller to lift the handle off the end of the stem shaft. Pounding on the handle with a wrench is a sure way to damage the handle. (handle pullers are about $10 at any hardware store) If the stem body is accessible such as on the laundry faucet in question or a kitchen or lavatory faucet use an adjustable wrench to remove the stem body. If the stem body is recessed into the wall such as on a tub/shower mixer use a plumbers socket to remove it. (A full set of plumbers sockets is about $10 at any hardware store). When you get the stem body out remove the bib screw that holds the washer on the end of the stem, then remove the old washer. Examine the end of the stem. Most stems have a cast raised ridge that surrounds the outer part of the washer to prevent it from expanding outwards. You may find a chip or two missing from that ridge, if so, that is not a big problem but in a worst case we find the greater portion of that ridge is missing. In that case we use a pair of pliers to break off the remaining portion of the ridge, then use a file to smooth any burrs so the end of the stem has a flat surface. Select the correct washer and if you had to file the end of the stem flat you install a brass cup washer under the washer to replace the ridge. If you have a bottoming tap available it is best to run the tap in the threads of the stem to clean the threads, then put the screw through the washer and into the stem and tighten it in place. Next, unscrew the stem packing nut on the outer end of the stem and turn the stem until you can remove it from the stem body. Use a fine stainless steel wire brush to clean the threads of the stem and apply a liberal coating of "Plumbers grease" on the threads. (A small 1oz can of plumbers grease is available at any hardware store for about $.50 to $1.) Now remove the old stem packing material from the outer end of the stem body. Insert the stem into the body and turn it until the stem is in the full open position. Now you wind the new stem packing material around the stem shaft and push it down into the stem journal. continue packing until the stem packing material is slightly higher than the end of the stem body. Replace the stem packing nut and tighten slightly so you feel a slight friction when turning the stem. Now set the stem aside for a minute. Reach your finger nail into the faucet body and feel the surface of the seat. If the seat is pitted, chipped or feels like a rough sandpaper surface replace the seat. To replace the seat you insert a seat wrench into the center opening of the seat, then unscrew the seat. (You can get a seat wrench at any hardware store for about $3). Normally you will have to take the old seat to a good neighborhood hardware store and have them match a new one. (Ace & True value hardware stores are great for matching seats, but don't expect a lot of luck at Lowes or HD) Here is a tip. The original seats are usually brass. For a few cents more you can get "Monel metel" which will hold up much better and if you have severe hard water condition that tears the seats up quickly you might want to get a stainless steel seat. The SS is will cost about twice as much as the brass but it will outlast the brass 10 to 1. Before installing the new seat apply a couple turns of white single density Teflon tape to the threads. (There is a trick to installing the new seat. It is nearly impossible to hold the seat and get the threads started in the faucet body. The trick is to wedge the new seat on the end of your seat wrench and use the wrench to reach it in an start it.) Now here is the one point that many people overlook. Before you attempt to install the stem body back into the faucet be sure the stem is turned to the full open position. If it is in the closed position the new washer will be pressed too tightly against the seat and it is instantly distorted beyond use. Tighten the stem body, then turn the water one. You may need to tighten the stem packing nut a bit to seal the new packing. Once you are sure there is no leak replace the handle and your done. The first time you do this you may end up buying the afore mentioned tools but even if you do buy the tools, the total cost of the job is far less than the cost of a professional service call, and once you own the tools the next time you do this job all you will be out is a few cents for the washers and stem packing. I would strongly suggest every homeowner or DIY'er should get these tools and keep them in your tool box. Also, next time your at a hardware grab a package of assorted faucet washers. The package is about a dollar or two and with the price of gas it simply isn't worth coming back to the store for them when you need them.