Did the builder size the HVAC unit currently servicing the main level so that it could accomodate the basement? if so, adding the duct work for the basement is not a big deal. Post some details on what size units you currently have for each level and the sq footage. In my first home, they did no duct work in the basement but they did size the heater and AC unit to accomodate the basement living space. I acted as my own general contractor when I finished the beasment and I paid an HVAC company $1200 (this was in 1998) to add in ducts & registers in the basement. I did not add a seperate zone down there but could have easily done it for not much more. The basement was mostly below grade and worked fine running off the tstat on the main level. One thing you should get right now is a humidistat (costs about $20) and measure the humidity in your basement. With tighly sealed and insulated houses, moisture can be a big issue in the basement and lead to musty smells or mould. You might find that a dehumidifier is a worthwile investment when you finish your basemenent. I just added a large dehumidifier made by Sante Fe in my basement (currently mostly unfisished with some HVAC ducts) and it not only controls the humidity in the the basement, but we get the effects of drier air on the main level as well. This fixed a musty smell that my wife detected soon after we moved in, and then mildew spots we found on the basement cement floor when we had temperatures that were in the low 70's but humidity around 80% - very damp. Best of luck.

Shawn, you are essentially asking the wrong question. "The ivory coloured box on the left wall is my breaker panel; not sure if having that in a bathroom is against code." 26-402 Location of panelboards (see Appendix G) (1) Panelboards shall not be located in coal bins, clothes closets, bathrooms, stairways, high ambient rooms, dangerous or hazardous locations, nor in any similar undesirable places. . The question should be "what is the definition of Bathroom" and whether the inspector would consider a room with so many humidity producing fixtures together to be a "similarly undesirable space". Your big concern is still going to be clearances, for which flipping the panel around to outside will help solve. All clearances (plumbing and electrical), unless otherwise stated, are to be from the floor to at least 6'-6" (2M) high. That ivory box is obstructing even a toilet or sink clearance. I believe Canadian codes are more lenient on the width, so 28" for the toilet may be fine without that ivory cabinet.

Be warned Spoonflower wallpaper isnt a straight match. You have to overlap it to get it to match. My wallpaper person , who has hung wallpaper for 34 years, told me he would never hang it again. His words were its cheap (&@*. Just throwing that out there before you go and fall in love with something which is easy to do on the site.

@shirlpp - We need a mirror for the vanity so it has to be against a wall. As for shower on the window side, it's a rather large window, we would have to replace it with something smaller. @littlebug zone 5 Missouri Thanks for the input. That kitchen island is not really an island and can be removed. We're thinking of closing off the master access to the kitchen door but those late night snack route to the kitchen would be much longer haha. We're gonna put some thoughts into this. @eld6161 Thanks for the photo. I can picture the layout from your post. I think our space is a bit bigger so this might work.