David_cary ~~ as dlm2000 points out, there is NO pump used on the convection-style recirculating system. You can probably get a better explanation by googling, but basically what happens is that all the hot water is piped consecutively (and yes, pipes must be insulated, but they shoud be anyhow), but instead of the pipe dead-ending at the last faucet, the pipe returns to the hot water heater. Convection causes a slow journey through the pipes, hot water goes up and cooler cometh down, which results in hot water always being at the tap. As with any other issue involving moving heat, insulation of the transmitting unit (whether water pipe or air duct) is required for the best energy efficiency. I have no doubt that there is a slight increase in the overall cost of heating hot water, but it should be a *very* slight increase since the water within well-insulted pipes does not drop a great deal of temperature ~~ and if one is truly concerned about energy efficiency, there would be a far better cost return by solar pre-heating the originating water before it goes into the water heater.

@aliceinwonderland_id, i have pasted the results. Where is says nn it represents none noted. it might be hard to read but note the first number is the result, the 2nd is national standard and the last number In each row is the min. detected level. Test results where contamination was detected at or above the min. detection level , but not above the national standard. Heavy metals: results national standard: Min. detection level Calcium 153.9 nn 2 Copper . 0.008 1.3 0.004 Magnesium 7 nn 0.1 Potassium 1 nn 1 Silica 15.4 nn 0.1 sodium 46 nn 1 zinc 0.01 5 0.004 Other: chloride 39 250 5 sulfate 66 250 5 results national standard: Min. detection level physical factors: alkalinity (total as CaCO3) 370 nn 20 Turbidity .2NTU 1 0.1 Radiologicals: Gross beta 4.33PCi/L nn 4 Test results where the contaminant was detected above the standard, which is not an EPA enforceable maximum contaminant level. Heavy metals: results national standard: Min. detection level manganese 0.053 0.05 0.004 physical factors: hardness 410 100 10 TDS 550 1 0.01 (total dissolved solids) hm I assume it's ferrous since the water does come out clear, BUT I have to say that the water in the toilet for instance is also clear. I will investigate tomorrow when I go to the property if particles develop after leaving out a cup of water for a while and I will let you know. pls let me know what you think regarding results. btw I did not include any results that tested fine. thanks in advance!

I think a lot of the criticism of the Zeta Rod system on this forum has been a bit unfair. First, I have no association of any kind with Zeta Rod. I don't sell or install water conditioning equipment. I do have a degree in chemistry. First, Zeta Rod DOES NOT claim to remove calcium and other dissolved minerals from your water. In fact, they have been very clear that they DO NOT remove anything. Therefore, and chemical test of water that has been conditioned with a Zeta Rod system will have exactly the same chemical composition as the water prior to the test. If you collect some Zeta Rod conditioned water and let it dry, you will get a deposit -- again, exactly what Zeta Rod states. What Zeta Rod DOES claim to do is to keep minerals dissolved in the water, so that they do not precipitate on (coat for the non-chemists) pipes, dishes, sinks, etc. (at least prior to the water evaporating). Zeta Rod also claims that any scale present due to evaporation will be easier to remove than normal scale. I have been using a Zeta Rod system for almost two years and my experience is that both of Zeta Rod's claims are true. Here are the trade-offs between a Zeta Rod and a traditional water softener; at least as I see them: 1. A Zeta Rod system may have a higher installation cost, but a lower operating cost. 2. In municipalities where traditional water softeners are not allowed, the Zeta Rod is a LOT better than nothing. 3. A traditional water softener will remove metals from your water -- the Zeta Rod will not. However, the Zeta Rod does appear to prevent the metals from depositing on pipes and other surfaces (as long as the water is not allowed to evaporate). During the first few months of use, the Zeta Rod also appears to remove any existing scale that has built up on pipes. Based on my personal experience, the Zeta Rod appears to be MORE effective than a salt based water softener at preventing scale buildup on pipes. 4. While the Zeta Rod does not remove anything from the water, it also does not add anything to the water. A traditional water softener replaces metals (usually calcium and magnesium) with sodium and/or potassium, depending on the kind of salt used with the water softener. 5. A traditional water softener should prevent water spots. A Zeta Rod will not prevent water spots. 6. The Zeta Rod system is MUCH smaller than a salt based water softener. If I had to install a new system and salt based water softeners were legal in my area, it would be a pretty close call for me. I would probably opt for the Zeta Rod system because of lower operating costs, smaller size and not lower maintenance (don't have to mess with bags of salt). Cheers, Don

When I lived there a green sand filter was standard with all new houses and well water. The water was green and smelled of sulfur. So what they called a green sand filter was just a tank filled with a chemical called potassium permanganate. Permanganate coates over the green sand every time it backwashes. It filtered particulates, sulfur and Iron out of the water and made it clear and less smelly. There are 2 types one for Sulfur approx $550 and one if you don't need sulfur removal $400 It did nothing for the softness of the water. And the water WAS hard. I had it tested by 2 companies before I got wise and purchased my own testing kit. $20 The iron in the water clogs up the softener so we used Iron out which is a treatment system that hangs on the outside and when added to the brine mix dissolves the iron in the chamber. You could get a whole house RO for $4k or so or you could just get a small one for drinking $150. or Buy a 2 stage whole house filter with a charcoal filter for taste and smell and a particulate filter from HD or Wall-mart for approx $50 and a water softer from HD or Sears for $450 and DIY. for under $500. I am almost finished my kitchen remodel and here we have city water and even though its not very hard is is WAY better with a softer. I also installed a charcoal filter because coffee tasted terrible made with unfiltered water. Especially on the days they chlorinate the water. You can also use those faucet mounted filters which contain a charcoal filter for drinking, and ice. I also have a RO system but I don't think I will use it unless, the water gets worse. This just scratches the surface in filtration systems. You can add many different types of filters depending on whats in your water. However as said RO gets 99% of everything. http://www.qualitywatertreatment.com/iron_filters.htm http://home.howstuffworks.com/question99.htm http://www.ampac1.com/?gclid=CI-jj67kjZQCFQgWiQodwHo4XA just 1 of hundreds.