AZEK Best Beadboard in Bath or Another?

15 years ago

I am in a quandary about beadboard wainscotting in my small bathroom. I have three walls I want it on, going half way up the wall, approximately 4 ft from floor. The width of one wall is 5 feet, the widest wall is 8 feet, and the very short wall is less than 2 feet wide. These measurements were made by me and may not be exact.

I read on the AZEK web site that it is to be used everywhere but inside. Did I read this correctly? I thought it WAS for inside areas that are exposed to moisture, i.e. bathrooms or kitchen back splashes, etc. If I read correctly, it is made of plastic. Are there better products for my bathroom walls? I want a smooth , clean look that will not need to be painted and will not be easily scraped or otherwise damaged. The bathroom is used by one adult.

What size(s) would be most cost effective for the areas I need to cover? Is there another product AS GOOD , but LESS EXPENSIVE that is a better option? It will be installed professionally.

( Last week beadboard was installed that was purchased at HD and there are visible seams as well as small nicks and dings that are unsightly.) I'm determined to have it re-done by the contractor, but I will have to pay for the more expensive material. Should I have to for pay all of the materials for the re-do? However, I would rather pay and be satisfied with it than be unhappy with the newly installed beadboard that doesn't look good. Any thoughts, suggestions, or advice will be greatly appreciated. (Sorry for the long post. It's my first.)

BTW-I am very satisfied with the other work that was done in the bathroom.

Thanks

Featured Answer

User

15 years ago

I also have heard of Azek trim for interior use. I would call the company and find out the reason behind the recommendation. I was considering the wainscoting in my BR too. Maybe it offgasses or something??

I agree that the beadboard/wainscoting from HD and Lowes is garbage. Go to your local lumber/building yard (where real contractors go). They have a much greater assortment of higher quality trims and wainscoting materials. Also ask about their special order millwork too. They actually may not cost that much more but are much higher quality. If you paint with a high quality semi or glossy paint, it should be maintenance free in your bathroom for years.

Good luck.

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Comments (6)

fivefootzero
15 years ago
We are almost done with our small master bath remodel. I wanted beadboard, but didn't want seams or other imperfections inherent with using 4 x 8 sheets. We found tung and groove beadboard and my husband said it was a dream to work with. We primed with a very good primer, and then painted with bathroom/kitchen paint. I love the way it turned out. The grooves are actually grooves, not just slight impressions. There are no seams and it was very easy to work with and cut around outlets, AC vent, etc. We got it at Lowe's.

The room is still unfinished, but you get the idea here.
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Mayflowers - Wow. Good to know. Thank you! I'll look for those photos showing the bb to the ceiling, but I don't think I want to do that. For the island, that's something I've thought about for a long time too. The toe kick area is 4-1/2" and the current base is 3"something. I couldn't find trim that size. I don't know how to finish that area off. " I might even look into framing the sides and backs with the same frame as around your door style to make it look more finished off." I've love to do that, but don't know how I'd get it to match. The easy way, I thought, was add the same bb that will be on the splash. I agree about the corbels and am going to change them to something wood and simple. Maybe something like this. (link) Also would love to change out the lighting in this room and that's going to happen with the next round of things I tackle. Athomeinva - Oh thank you so much for posting those photos. It looks really nice! Since mine will be paneling, I'm not sure what I'll do to finish off the side/edges. Maybe some type of chair moulding. Geez, I really need to get a plan together. So what's the right way to run the bb behind the refrigerator? Mine is in the middle of the cabinet run with cabinets & counter on the other side. Do you run the bb down past the counter and keep going with the trim the whole way across? Stop the bb at the counter and keep going with the trim? Stop the trim on each side leaving no trim in the space behind the fridge? I know we're not really going to see anything back there, but how should it be done? I am removing the microwave and running the bb to the top before the new one comes. Pattycakes - I've used the bb wallpaper in my laundry room on the insides of the cabinets and loved it. I think it would be very hard for me with all the cuts to do a backsplash. Since we're having someone do this, it'll be easy peasy for him. Here is a link that might be useful: possible corbels
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thull
15 years ago
I've only used Azek outdoors for trim. But we have a bathroom that we re-did with 'beadboard.' Our (lousy) GC used stuff that is a thin (maybe 1/4-inch thick) strip with the beads milled in it. On our walls, it's nailed over plywood. Depending on your perspective, it either looks rustic or crappy (lots of unfilled knots and imperfections). I'd avoid this stuff in favor of actual T&G boards with beaded edges.

As for the Azek, it's expensive and doesn't get you out of all the care/maintenance. You still ought to fill the nail holes and paint it, just like wood. It'll still scratch/dent.

If your current stuff is actual boards, I'd leave it, fill the nicks, and re-paint. Durham's water putty and a putty knife is cheap stuff.

If you're hell bent on replacing, I'd go with the real wood for less expense. Be sure it gets primed (after cutting) on all sides to help keep the T&G joints from moving so much with moisture/seasonal changes.

One of these days, I'm going to use the Azek beaded boards to replace a bad-looking plywood-and-batten ceiling on our porch.
cab3014
Original Author
15 years ago
All of your responses are greatly appreciated. I think I have decided to allow the contractor to make the corrections he said would solve the problems, the major one being able to see the two places where the boards are joined. I guess I can live with that as well as the painting he says will solve the other problems. I hope he's right. If not, I guess I can have the beadboard replaced later on down the road.

(Your bathroom and beadboard look beautiful fivefootzero.) I'd post pics of mine, but don't know how.

Thanks to all for your ideas and/or suggestions.
cab3014
Original Author
15 years ago
Picture showing the visible seams. Hope it works!

http://i352.photobucket.com/albums/r341/cab3014/P1010148.jpg
folkman
15 years ago
Its just my opinion but I would have the contractor take it down. No matter what he does to fix the seam or paint it, it will still look like the home center thin panels. I would hate for you to live with it for a few years. Go to one of the big box stores and you'll see the thicker stuff in boards. I just did mine (I used PVC since it does not react to water). Its a bit more expensive but if its a small bathroom its not that much money (I actually got mine from my local lumber yard-they all should carry it). Just do it once and do it right. I think it will bother you until it is done right. just my opinion.

AZEK Best Beadboard in Bath or Another?

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