Per Consumer Reports, for top freezers without icemakers, only 4 brands are rated, I would guess because the others don't make fridges w/o icemakers. Frigidaire & GE have the fewest repairs, as reported by consumers. Then Kenmore & Whirlpool follow. But Frigidaire & GE are 7%, while Kenmore & Whirlpool are at 8% repairs, so there's not much difference among any of them. Personally, I've read so many bad reviews about other models of GE that I wouldn't buy a GE unless it had the perfect dimensions and was cheaper than everything else. If you find one you love but it has an icemaker, you should be able to remove it easily. There's just a few screws there. Maybe a line to snip (but maybe not). There's probably instructions on Youtube. (That's what I plan to do. Like you, I don't care for icemakers.)

In our remodel we could not fit a full depth fridge, so we went we counter depth french door model instead. We picked the Elux CD and we really like it so far. I can only assume the FD would be as nice. Pros ==== - Nice borderless glass shelves - Led lights on the side and in each drawer instead of on the top - led lights are user replaceable (instructions in the manual) - Cool control panel (Wave touch) that shows the actual temp of the fridge and the freezer - Doors can be adjusted to not open to wide, which is a nice feature when the oven is located next to the fridge. - Not too noisy - Makes a tone of ice (dual ice maker model) - Drawers are self closing Cons ==== Water is not really cold, but this is minor since you have tones of ice, but still a bit annoying.

Thank you all! Sorry for the delayed response. We've been out of town and also a bit crazed with project management. Your points are well taken. We are going to bump the fridge space width up to 32." This means the sink will no longer be exactly centered between the outlets (which are already in the wall), but I think that's fine. One good thing, is that the model we are purchasing does not have a typical handle; it's flush with the top of the door. So, we don't have to worry about that, though the hinge sticks out a bit when opened. We are opting for a 17.6 cubic foot fridge, so it errs more toward "apartment sized." Not huge, but also not so small we can't use it for party platters, etc. The price point was less than smaller models, and not much difference in terms of energy savings. Thanks again!

"...36" between cabinets and island I believe..." I hope you're not saying it's 36" between the cabinets on the perimeter and the cabinets in the island. If so, you don't have a 36-inch aisle, you have a 33-inch aisle. What I hope you mean is that it's 36" between the items that stick out the farthest into the aisle on each side (other than the refrigerator, as you've already admitted you forgot about). Note that even that's 6" narrower than the minimum recommendation of 42" for a one-person (and always a one-person) work aisle (48" for two or more people working at the same time) -- assuming you're talking about a work aisle. The actual depth of a standard perimeter is 25.5" -- that includes the cabinet boxes (24" deep), doors/drawer fronts (1" deep), and counter overhangs (1.5" deep). The counter overhangs 1.5", so it covers the doors/drawer fronts. 24" + 1.5" = 25.5" The same counter overhang is on the non-seating sides of the island. Seating overhang should be a minimum of 15" of clear leg/knee space. If there are no workspaces or appliances behind the seats, there should be at least 44" behind the seats if you have a 15-inch seating overhang, more if the overhang is less than 15". If there are appliances or workspaces, then the aisle behind the seats should be 48" to 54", depending on how much thru-traffic there is.