Our current MBR is close to your first plan, just a bit longer. We have a 5' x 14' master bath with a pocket door between the toilet/shower room and the double vanity, and our ceiling is only 7' 6". We plan to redo the room (it's 1970s era) and remove the wall and pocket door between the "wet" room and vanity because it feels totally cramped. Our entry door is also pocket but is placed more like your second plan, so it limits how we can use the long wall. Have thought about something similar to Plan Two but have almost totally nixed the idea due to the reduction in size of the shower by almost 9 inches from its max potential. Our current shower is 48x30 and it feels cramped to me, which is also attributed to its dropped ceiling - I call it "the coffin." We have no windows in there, and that also makes it feel crowded. We want to do a "tub in shower" idea like the picture someone posted, so we can squeeze a separate tub and shower into the space, but will be compromising by losing the "toilet room" and taking our vanity from 8' to closer to 5'. Our closet is also accessed through the bathroom (door is placed like in Plan One, so we are actually dealing with two doors in our bath - three if you count the existing wet room door), and we have waffled for two years about the necessity of a separate "toilet room" to preserve access for the other person to use the vanity and the closet if someone is in the toilet. Frankly, we have decided that if one is using the toilet, the likelihood of the other trying to use the room at all is very low. We have two other bathrooms in the house and if one of us is using the shower and getting ready, the other would go on to one of the other baths to have privacy to use the toilet, and not depend on a pocket door! That's the reason we think we will nix a pony wall for "privacy" around the toilet, too. Our previous 1950s house had a toilet just next to the vanity and we never used the toilet at the same time as the other person was using the bath (again, we had a half bath as well so could use it if needed) so it's just eating up floor space and visually closing off a tiny room. We are going to have to move our toilet about 3 feet directly adjacent (joists are running in our favor so that is a small consolation) and possibly rerun some H&A ductwork in our dropped shower ceiling (yes, dropped lower than 7'6" - our house was constructed for very short people, I think!). Would love to see what you come up with as we are still in the savings mode to do this project. One other consideration is placing plumbing on the exterior wall if you are in a cold climate. 2/3 of our bath is piped through the exterior wall and I wish it wasn't because we have to be really careful during cold snaps to remember to drip the faucets. You can't "drip" a toilet, though, so I worry!

You have a BIG problem with the width of the room - 84" is just not enough to have a door into the room and fixtures down both 96" walls. To move around comfortably - get out of tub or shower, stand up from the toilet, turn around from the sink - you really need to have at least 32 -36". (Realistically, not a code bare minimum which makes you feel like you are trapped in the space) 32" door way with basic trim will take up 36-37". That only leaves you with 47 inches to play with (assuming you are up for moving the door AND window.) The narrowest tub will be about 30". Now you only 17" on the opposite wall from door to wall for sink & toilet. You might sneak a narrow sink vanity in but not the standard depth 22 " and a 17" is very very iffy -doubt you would find one. Toilets come out from the wall 28". Than that would only leave 26" to the tub or shower. Impossible. Can NOT be done. Getting a 36 x 36 shower in there is impossible. That 84" wall - 37" door &trim = 47" left - 36" shower = 11 inches left = NO sink and NO toilet (they would be opposite the shower & tub) BTW 36" is the interior size on a shower. You might still have to allow for the framing on the shower side next to the tub - easily cost you 4 1/2".....a 55" tub? Definitely hard to find. Even if you come down a 96" wall with a shower and short tub and then across the 84" wall (with window) with the end of the tub, the toilet and sink, you still DO NOT have enough space. 84" - 30" tub end = 54" - 30" toilet (that is what is allowed from side to side so there is shoulder room - 24 inches. 24" is not enough to get into the sink without more shoulder space. Way way cramped. Going tub 30" then 24" sink (pedestal?) and then 30" for toilet space.......possible but that means moving the window somewhere else. You can not fit all that stuff in that room - it is impossible. To do what you want (36" x 36 shower, 5' tub, vanity & toilet on opposite wall) you would need a room that is minimum 95" -96" wide (not 84) and 101 1/2" (not 96) Now there might be way....and triple the cost because of semi-custom or specialty stuff (1) Move the door so from one 96" wall it is 28" to the door and from the other 96" wall it is 19" to the door (2) Move the window (do not put it in a shower - been there dealt with that and all the tile, mortar and caulking in the world won't keep water from leaking into the wall and window trim.) The window will end up over the end of the tub. (3) On the 96" wall that is 28" from the doorway it goes down the side from the door wall like this: 30" for toilet 66" long soaking tub (faucets on tub rim or wall) Don't waste space with a drop in that needs tile around its top edges - go with one that is stand-alone (double-ended clawfootish type maybe http://www.signaturehardware.com/67-aiden-cast-iron-dual-tub-on-beveled-plinth.html If you really want to go wild, Kohler makes whirlpool tubs that are 60x30 to 60 x 32 to 66x 32 http://www.us.kohler.com/us/browse/bathroom-bathing/_/N-255vZ4rZ4sZ5hZ5iZ1z141pw Some are apron front and others are drop in but you just frame under the lip and don't lose any space with tiling around the tub edges. (4) on the 96" wall that is 19" from the doorway it goes down the side from the door like this * 60" long 18" -19" deep vanity (yeah they make them - here is an example http://www.signaturehardware.com/bathroom/bathroom-vanities/59-dumont-double-basin-vanity-cabinet-wenge.html That is a double basin. They are called "Narrow vanities" That leaves 36" on that wall down to the 84" far wall. From the corner of that 96" wall and 84" back wall there is 51-52 inches to the tub across the 4" outside back wall * Here is where the custom built shower goes. It will 36 x 50/51 if you glass it in or 36 x 47 1/2 if the end next to the tub needs a supporting wall OR the standard 36x4 shower Now 36 x 50-52 is not standard. If you go to a standard 36 x48 tile ready base, you can get a standard 36 x 48 glass enclosure. Here is the base pan that you then tile http://www.tileredi.com/single-curb-shower-pan-with-center-drain-36x48-p3648cpvc and here is the enclosure http://www.build.com/vigo-vg605148/s741109?uid=1350617&gclid=COWgxsu5hcwCFYM2aQodATkBPQ&source=gg-gba-pla_1350617____49842552319&s_kwcid=AL!4215!3!49842552319!!!g!79246577688! (Plenty of room to get in the shower is 48" you vanity is 18 -19 and the shower door on the far left is 22 7/8. Vanity will not be in the way of the door opening. The shower 36 x 50-52 can have a door of 30 -32" but that means custom. ) Going with the standard 36 x48 leaves up to 36 inches to do a drop in tub and have a bit of tile show around it on top If you don't want the glass - way much windex - you could use the shower curtain ring like on clawfoot tubs that mounts on the long side of the tub. Maybe this kind of thing? http://www.signaturehardware.com/bathroom/shower/clawfoot-tub-shower-enclosures/side-mount-add-a-shower-kit-with-hand-shower-and-ring.html or this one http://www.signaturebath.com/shower-rods/122x-corner-shower-rods.html which - per its specs - can be cut down so it will be 36 x 48 Tileredi makes shower bases for all ready for tiling. Most big box stores have them. Another brand is KBRS - and while they have standard sizes, they will custom make them if you need something odd. (Very nice people to work with) This is way more work - moving a door and an exterior window but you get * 66" soaking tub or whirlpool * 36 x 50-52 " shower or 36 x 48 shower * 60" double vanity With all those specialty things, if you can steal 13" from a room parallel to the 96" walls, you would save money and be able to fit the 36 shower followed by 55" clawfootish type on one side and a 66" vanity on the other with the toilet at the end. Might be a lot cheaper as you could use standard off the shelf stuff instead of specialty things if you could move the wall if you can steal the space. You would only have to move the door and not the window.

A won't work because there isn't enough space between the shower and the toilet. Assuming you want a glass shower, I don't think you want to look out on the toilet. Plus, I have a thing against having closets in bathrooms. Steam, moisture and all. In B, how will the door to the shower open? C is really not good if one of you has a different wake/sleep cycle. Plus there's no relationship between bathroom and closet. While I don't like the closet in the bathroom, I do like there to be a close relationship so you can go from the bathroom to getting dressed. Also look how little room there is to move from the side of the bed into the closet. What I also don't like about B and C above is how the toilet is now further from the bedroom. Given a choice of C1 or C2, I prefer the one with the closet in the bathroom but really prefer neither.

Thank you! We hadn't thought of that arrangement, mainly because we were thinking the toilet behind the door was best because then you don't see it right away. But putting the shower there means we don't have to worry about overlapping with the window frame for the shower rod. Brilliant!