I found this thread not only interesting, but it was also the kick in the pants that got me to do something about the repeatedly failing water intake valve/solenoid on my Miele Optima (G2420-SCI). The unit was installed new in 2008-2009. We moved into the house in early 2013, and by August that year we experienced our first failure. I do not know if the valve failed in the interval between 2009-2013. I called the local factory authorized installer, and they came out promptly. As I learned after the 2nd failure, they didn’t replace the entire hose/wire/valve, but simply cracked the case and wired-in a new valve. They charged me price of entire unit. Eighteen months later, same problem. I found some info on retrofitting the Miele valve with a GE valve, but I guess I was too timid to try it then. So, I called Miele and explained the problem. They comp’d me 33% on the new part, and this time they changed out the entire assembly. It worked fine until July ’16 when it developed same problem. This time they comp’d me the entire part and did another replacement. Every time they checked the inlet water temp it was below 130 degrees. The new part installed in August ’16 has barely lasted 8 months! We tried to use the machine over Easter weekend, and it came up with the same humming sounds of no water coming in and then popping off the “F12” fault code. After embarrassingly spending/wasting $1000 on 3 valve replacements, I finally decided to look back into the GE valve, and that’s how I got here. I was a GardenWeb member for years before Houzz, but lost touch, until I found this thread. Good x2. I followed the instructions on the YouTube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-LaqSO-Oyuw I opted to use the GE WD15X10003 valve as per the video, and not the WD15X93, mentioned earlier in this thread. As far as I could tell online, the two units are functionally comparable. The bracket and molded switch housing of the X93 are somewhat different, necessitated by the fact that the X93 is designed to be tucked into a cramped under-washer position in a GE system. It is also about $10 cheaper than the X10003, but the X10003 was available by Prime on Amazon, so I could fix it right away. I would guess that any of a number of these valves would be fine, since they would sit on the floor of the under-sink cabinet, and not require specific in-machine installation. The water inlet connection on the GE valve is a 3/8” Female iron pipe thread (FIP). My water source connector is a S/S flex hose with a 3/8” female compression fitting. To mate them I needed to pick up a 3/8” male-male brass connector with one end MIP and the other a compression thread. Connecting them was no problem, but getting them leak-free at the MIP-FIP connection was a bit of an issue. One has to hold the valve in one hand while tightening with the other and it’s hard to get a good grip on the valve portion. I used plumber’s tape first, but on the second try I used 1 wrap of plumber’s tape and a thread filler-sealer called “Hercules Block.” It’s a somewhat messy blue paste, but it did the trick. The wire connections were straightforward, just as explained in the video. I test ran it twice yesterday, and it worked normally, just as the OEM valve, and so far, there are no leaks. The time between failure and repair was only 3 days (not the typical Miele 3 weeks), and the out-of-pocket costs for valve, connector, sealer, electrical connectors was $40. (not $450+). The satisfaction of DIY, and un-shackling from the burdensome, confiscatory Miele system?....priceless. My only regret is that I should have done this after the 2nd failure...or the 3rd...slow learner, I guess.

Well, Miele hose would be better than a garden variety one because I think it is better quality than plain jane black rubber. But the plain version will still deliver the water to your machine. I think you can also buy better quality washer inlet hoses at some stores. If you love your Miele 1918 as much as I love mine, you might want to treat it to the generic (non-Miele) version of the better quality hose. This is particularly true if you aren't in the habit of actually turning the water off at the tap between washing sessions. I do turn my tap off, but if I routinely left it on I would spring for the better hose as insurance against it bursting. I don't know if the threads of the hose end are some European version of standard hose thread. I know I have both of my hoses (both hot and cold lines) connected to a garden variety Y, that in turn is connected to my cold tap. It's been that way for well more than a decade and I haven't noticed any subtle leakage, so I rather think the hose threads match whatever is commonly found in the US. But yes, you do have to make sure you harvest then re-use (or buy new ones) the filters on both ends of both of the hoses. Sometimes the in-board one (meaning one closest to the machine) gets kind of stuck in the hose; sometimes it's stuck in the inlet itself. Just unscrew the (original) hose carefully and take the time to find - and extract - both sets of filter cones. You defintely do not want tiny bits iof pipe rust to get into the machine because it will irretrievably block some of the tiny little emitters that deliver water above the detergent drawer. Those emitters have specific moments when they deliver water during the various fill, pre-wash, and rinse cycles. Having them blocked is ore than just not gettng enough water. It's more about ot getting enough water at the right point in the cycle. Good luck. L.

homechef -- Thanks for the input. This is a good way to look at the situation, in terms of financial cost/benefit. Glad that you "won" your own "gamble" with the Thermador! BTW -- Update on contact with Wolf: I had a very helpful conversation yesterday with a representative from the nearest Massachusetts Wolf/SubZero distributorship. She called me pursuant to an email I had sent to Wolf to ask about specific options for replacement ovens. This woman (Jennifer) took the time to speak with me and to (patiently) answer all my questions, even though I made it clear from the outset that my email had probably been referred to the wrong distributor, as I almost certainly live within the Albany, NY area, rather than within the central Massachusetts area that they cover, and she said that Albany is, indeed, outside her distribution area. Jennifer was very helpful, provided answers that were consistent with information I have read here, and seemed to be extremely knowledgeable. She was specific about installation issues where she had information on these, but also was careful to make sure that I understood what the limits of her expertise are, and also careful to note what the applicable legal requirements are that apply to installation (for example, electrical codes). She was generous with her time -- very professional.

Partout Closed. She's going away tomorrow. I remember when I had to replace just 1 shock off this thing. I looked everywhere - even cross reference *OEM*, etc. Ended up paying $200+ to the fine folks over at Princeton for one itty bitty shock.