staceyneil, I'm in the minority voting for the neo-angle shower. For me, bathing toddlers in a shower/tub combo with the faucet next to the toilet was not ideal, and within a few years they preferred showers anyway. My master bath has since been remodeled with a shower and a tub with easy access on 2 sides. If I had that when the kids were small, I would have bathed them in that tub instead. It might be helpful to get input from a realtor who specializes in your area and price range. Maybe your home appeals to the DINK couple or an about-to-be-empty-nester family. Both might prefer a shower in the hall bath. As far as gaining storage while retaining an airy rather than densely packed feel, the space next to the neo-angle shower looks like all you'd need to augment the large medicine cabinet and concealed storage in the vanity wall. Could you could anchor a 21" wide by 18" deep semi-floating vanity to the corner walls? I'm envisioning a scaled-down version of the vanity in your master, but without a sink and installed at kitchen height. Would that leave enough space between the side of the vanity and the short wall of the shower without looking awkward? Maybe the vanity should be only 18" wide, with a small towel bar or hook on the side of the vanity. Leaving a standard 18" above the new vanity, I would hang a 24" tall wall cabinet, possibly only about 9" deep, with glass doors in metal frame. If you have an 8' ceiling, that leaves 18" above the wall cabinet for storage or decorative items. Those are the general ~~height~~ dimensions of a 56" wide dry bar near my kitchen. My dry bar is installed in a 24" deep niche that used to be part of a standard 8' closet. On each side wall, the 12" deep wall cabinets are attached to the wall through a 12" wide piece of matching wood that runs from the ceiling to the bottoms of the wall cabinets. On the 56" x 12" strip of ceiling above the wall cabinets, there is a flyover of matching wood with a puck light in the center. The front edge of the flyover is finished with the same very simple crown molding used in the rest of the kitchen. In your case, maybe the molding could wrap around the corner back to the wall. I apologize if I come off as presumptuous by imposing my style preferences on your bathroom design! I've just noticed that we have similar taste in bathrooms, and I thought some elements of my dry bar might work for your bathroom. Seeing photos of your gorgeous master bath convinced me to go with a semi-recessed sink on a floating vanity. Good luck with your remodel. I can't wait to see pictures! docdom

Okay. I'll start right off with the part that you (and others) probably won't like to hear, to get it off my chest and out of the way. :-) When I see a home that has the exact same cabinetry and granite in the bathrooms as in the kitchen, I don't really get a "custom" vibe off it. To MY eye, it is a rather more builder-y look, like the leftovers from the kitchen counters were used up in the bathrooms (the "well, we paid for the whole d@mn slab, use it up!" philosophy) and the bathroom cabinets were lumped into the same order as the kitchen. If you are passionate enough about those cabinets that you want them in the bathrooms, by all means use them, but think about a different stain and a different top; conversely, if your heart is really set on the granite, put it on top of a slightly different cabinet. When I read your post and saw your pictures, though, what popped into my head were Jim Canton's custom "rustic" and "country" (which still has your beadboard door insert and I'm sure stained parts could be matched to the kitchen if you wanted to do that, but I like the mix of painted and stained parts) vanities. Yes, they're expensive - perhaps think of those as inspiration if your budget does not stretch that far. I admit to being a bit of a ho for the unfitted look but if you have the space a pine pie safe type cabinet would be great for storage, stained to match the trim. Since you adore copper as much as I do, copper sinks are almost a no-brainer, and ditto for lighting. Look at Arroyo Craftsman's offerings. I just LOVE their Simplicity series which is so very versatile. I have the "raw copper" SB-1 sconces and hate how they're patinating, so I would recommend the antique copper instead. Clawfoot Supply has some pretty and reasonably-priced copper towel bars etc. (the Aztec line), and this nameless one from A-Ball Plumbing is quite nifty as well. I like how they're all subtly different instead of being really matchy-matchy. For the floors, I think a slate-look porcelain mosaic would look excellent and be very durable/easy to take care of. I myself like a rather scaled-down tile size for a smaller room, and it does provide better traction and believe it or not it's not that busy if the grout is kept to the same color value as the tile. If the bathroom floor were going to actually touch the real slate flooring I would go in a different direction, but since they're separated by carpet and you can't stand on one and see the other, I think you're OK. Both Daltile and AO have very convincing slate-look "suites" in which there's a 12x12 tile and a mosaic; I think it would look great in the tub surround to use the larger tiles as a field with a listello of the mosaic tiles (three rows, say) at about shoulder height. American Olean's "Highland Ridge" has a fabulous mosaic of 1x3 tiles along with 12x12s. Yes, it would darken the tub alcove but that's easily enough rectified with a couple of recessed lights (about the only use I really like the things for! LOL). I think you're a very smart person for eliminating the whole subway-tile schtick, but if the dark tile is just too much for you, I'd think about a 8x8 or 12x12 white tile trimmed out with a slate-look mosaic, as a broad listello and perhaps vertically at the border of the tile. I think the embossed copper you're using for kitchen backsplash would be perfect on the ceilings. Rather than being "in your face" they would be something that you catch out of the corner of your eye, and perhaps don't even register consciously but just add to the whole sense of warmth and charm as well as reflecting light downwards. Think about using the plastic version though - they look very good and you won't have any problem at all with corrosion. Aluminum "tins" won't rust but are much more expensive. If you have leftovers that you want to use up and you're working with steel, make sure to backprime them with a rust inhibitor.

Hi GN F, this is what I had in mind. Sorry I am not better w mock up. Thought that would provide privacy for shower and toilet, and keep moisture confined to that area w fan. It depends on your real estate market what would make the most sense, and it may be worth exploring comparable real estate listings to see what type of competition you will face at resale. If this feels awkward and confined you may be better off w your original plan. If you move toilet to right of shower, will shower remain in its position or rotate 90 degrees? If you rotate shower you will have more space for Your toilet room.

Maybe something like this: The biggest concern is the space in front of the toilet. The code is that you need 22" clearance in front of the toilet. My powder room is 4'2" deep and I just barely have 22" clearance. In your case, with this layout you have 1" to spare (maybe less if the wall between the tub and the toilet is more than 4" thick). BTW, the space I used for this layout is 95"x138" (I added 4" for the wall between the closet and the bathroom). So I am not sure if in total you have 134 or 138 inches available. EDIT: If your japanese tub is slightly bigger than 40", a tankless toilet could help preserving the 22" required in front of the toilet: EDIT2: To make it more open, the wall separating the tub and the toilet does not need to be full height. It could be just high enough so that you don't see the toilet when seated in the tub.