Owbist, the laptop is a Dell that I bought from their Website and just had things put on it that I wanted. Thanks for the comment. ravencajun: This laptop did come with Vista and was upgraded to Windows 7. Just a little while ago, the computer gave me a message saying: Windows must be activated today". Then it gave me an option to reenter the product key. However, the product key that I have is invalid and I do not know what the product key is that maybe came with the Windows 7, as a computer person did this updrade to Windows 7 for me as a favor. Does Windows 7 come with a different Product Key? There were no papers involved. I can get in touch with him maybe tomorrow, but in the meantime, what is going to happen to my laptop, if it says this must be done today?? Thanks again for responding. I'm using my son's laptop to send this message and am backing up everything on my laptop just in case. Any comment on what I should do now? Sorry, I don't know that much about the operation of the laptop.

Bob, I do really enjoy your statements as they are usually just downright funny. And, occasionally I'll respond as I'm about to do here. PCBs are NOT mini-computers. They are simply "printed circuit boards" that are used to mechanically support & electrically connect electronic components. Usually made of materials like FR-4 (woven glass & epoxy) along with copper foil these PCBs by themself have very, very low failure rates. They easily meet Six Sigma standards if you are familiar with that. It is the components placed on the PCBs which typically fail. But I imagine the Bryant engineers know the temperature, voltage, etc ratings of each individual component that goes onto the control board (temp ratings are typically 0 to 70 degrees C for consumer use, -40 to +85 degrees C for industrial use) and don't spec that for installations where temperatures get outside the range. Given it is a control board it probably comes from Honeywell or someone like that & it comes with its own specs which the Bryant engineers then approve for use within their equipment within a given environment. Mini-computers is mostly an obselete term that described a class of computers in the middle range, somewhere between mainframes & PCs. Originated by DEC & others like Data General, Wang, Prime, etc joined in that market those companies pretty much disappeared in the late 80's & 90's. You don't need a highly-controlled environment like computer rooms/labs for the typical control boards to operate as they should as you suggest above. Most microprocessors/microcomputers (like Intel, Motorola, etc) operate fine in the HVAC space. As mentioned above, the primary problem appears to be the "bozo" installation contractor. Maybe that is why you stated "I have replaced just about every common board and sometimes multiple times within a year.".

SUCCESS!! A half hour ago I was sitting down to report failure. For the record I'll report what I did. But the punch line is: google the real problem. I was not actually having F11 or F14 codes, I was having Sud and F02 codes and it does make a difference. There's a good thread about Sud/F02 codes here. And the moral is: While writing this I just had to jump up and check on my machine because it was spinning so audibly fast. It hasn't done that in a *loooong* time. Let me tell you why: The Sud/F02 code is apparently due to a blocked outlet. On retrospect, everything points to this simple answer. I didn't add things together before hand. It's been a long time since I've heard water leaving the drum. And it hasn't spun hard in ages either. The symptoms were longer and longer for the machine to finish its cycle until finally it just failed and started throwing codes eventually. And recently water is left in the drum a little bit too (when someone else used it; I manipulated things so that didn't happen). So all this adds up to: plugged drain. The drain is located behind the bottom panel, removed with three hex screws (see link above). There's a 3" plastic plug to remove and in mine was: ripped plastic hose, broken pen parts, many, many of them (I'm going to kill my teenager), and disposable dental floss picks (I'm going to kill dh), and eraser caps (I'm going to kill my tweenager), and a really, really thick plug of grease and hair and compressed lint and other gook that was just its own unique substance. Oh my. As suggested in the link above, do have many, many towels ready to sop up much, much water that will come out. Also in my water is about 2 TB at least of heavy white grains -- maybe that's just sand -- dh is a marine biologist and teen is a jr lifeguard, spending much time on the beach. Would sand that sits in water soften? I guess not -- don't know what that stuff is. It's kind of hydrated. Practically like oats. Ycccck. And so .... the machine seems fixed. And I'm thinking now that hydrated "sand" is maybe the backing to decaying plastic-backed rugs. What did I do prior to finding the fix? I took the circuit board out again as described by so many above with such luck. I didn't note very much before and want to set it down here for the record. I encountered many, many broken plastic clips, some sitting on the wires, some in the circuit board itself. The whole white plastic housing rattled on its clips even though those three large ones weren't visibly broken. When I replaced it I fixed that back on with duck tape too. Pry the three large white tabs holding the white housing box for the circuit board up with a thin screwdriver, a little bit on one side, then the other, back to the first side. Two people might help but would need to be very light-fingered. There are plastic clips holding the circuit board to the white box. Most of mine are broken (the machine is 10 years old now). Two thin screwdrivers are needed to pry the tabback and then with the other screwdriver, gently press the board up. This must happen back and forth at a couple spots (without touching any solders obviously). The backs of all my solders looked perfect. Two of the tops of my solders looked a little dark in color. Neither of the switches looked corroded. I resoldered all the contact strips. Some looked fine but when I went to remelt the solder, I discovered there just wasn't any there at all, so I added a touch more. I sprayed all the contact strips with electronic cleaner before soldering ; don't know if that was a mistake. Almost all the clips that hold the wiring housings in place are snapped off just from time and the vibration of the machine itself. It's possible a new board housing is in order. I think that's all I wanted to remember for next time. I had some vaseline ready but decided it wasn't necessary. Given how tough it was to slip on the cracky plastic wire housings, I'm thinking that might help the clips go on more smoothly on old machines. OTOH with no exterior plastic clips left to hold the wire harnesses in place, making that too smooth a contact might allow it to wriggle free easier. After I fit it all back in place I was relieved that the machine turned on just fine, only with the same characteristic noisy sound and non-rotation of the drum - another symptom that I forgot to mention (signifying, as it turns out, that plugged drain). Immediately after starting up again the Sud code got thrown again so that's when (duh) I started to google the other codes. This thread is a wonderful repository! In sum: Sud/F02 == plugged drain, remove bottom panel and clean trap F11/F14/door lock == bad circuit contacts, resolder, clean contacts, etc. Here is a link that might be useful: Sud/F02 code fix

Got the dreaded "No Power Cell 2" message (yes, it says "2" as well, vice NO Power Cell". Had Pinch a Penny check my under warranty T-CELL-15 - said it passed. Looked at several forums and found this one. Checked my fuses, appear ok - not broken/blown. Wish that was the case however. Notice Amazon sells a PCB board for 350 or so. Before ordering and doing this myself, I noticed a link for navyvet about the circular "fuse" for lack on a better term, specifically the Digi key pn# 570-1062-ND. Will need to take my board off to see if I can find burn marks, then try my hand at soldering (or call a friend). Anyone successful with the soldering, then have issues later on? Don't want to spend money on a new Circuit Board if I can prevent it, but don't really want to repeat the soldering work constantly. Any feedback is appreciated. I'm a newbie at the forum, so if the question has been asked, shoot me the link. Also, anyone else have issues going to www.nopowercell.com? sees down for me. Thank you for your time in advance fellow forum members and DIY repair techs.