When ever I go to any website the blue donut continues to blink.All this started when I deleated the weatherbug that somehow ended up on my computer uninvited.I have had so much trouble deleleting it.

I find this whole p!ss!ng contest amusing. Frankly, I think any differences between the BS and the CC are negligible. Both are fantastic ranges. When I first started looking for ranges, I had one requirement. I wanted to be able to do wok cooking in addition to conventional cooking. So much so that I even contemplated installing a wok burner right next to a conventional range or cooktop. One by one, I started ruling out Wolf, Viking, Thermadore. Until I zeroed in on the 48" Capital Precision with four sealed burners and a hefty wok burner that can be used as a stock pot burner. Plus it came with a rotisserie! I thought it was perfect until I found the BS cult here. What? I can wok cook AND grill indoors? But I had to lose the rotisserie. Let's just say I happily drank the Kool-Aid. But then my kitchen plans stalled due to unforeseen circumstances. A year later, I started revisiting my kitchen reno. To my surprise, there was a new cult in town. And this time is was another product from Capital, the Culinarian, but it was still in pre-release. It was everything the BS could do and I get the rotisserie back! Then I had to stall my project again for another six months to find a new contractor. By the time I restarted my project, the CC was already in production. Without hesitation, I plunked down the cash and now it's in my garage waiting to be installed. In the end, I would have been thrilled with either a BS or a CC. I wouldn't rate one as better over the other. Features and aesthetics are all relative. The Culinarian was the best choice for me. And that's what's most important. I think they're both in a class of their own. They both represent great value in a cooking appliance, especially for a cooking enthusiast like me.

I did replace the GFCI breaker with a normal one. I added a GFCI receptacle to the left of the kitchen sink. And I found out the master bath receptacle on the wall with the light switch, feeds the kitchen receptacle to the right of the sink. So I put a GFCI in the master bath and a GFCI label on the kitchen receptacle to the right of the sink. The oddball receptacle in the master bath down by the floor, got swapped for a GFCI. And the lower bath got a GFCI as well. So the main panel is all normal breakers now. I was busy painting the garage OSB and drywall. Finally getting around to the sub panel again. Found one on Ebay for a decent price. And it had all the breakers installed. The last guy was going to use it for a sub panel but decided to go with something else. This sub panel has screw down breakers. (see photos below) So I got 50ft 6/3 w/g NM-B cable. It is still wrapped up. The current sub panel "feed" is 12/2 romex coming out of the wall just a tad under the radon exhaust pvc.(see photo) Prior owners handy work. That exit hole is right by the out wall of the house. That 12-2 feed is routed through the double rim joist into the house lower level bedroom. The joists are perpendicular to that wall and run straight back to the utility room which has an open ceiling. The rest of the lower level is dropped ceiling tiles. The 12-2 feeder was routed diagonally across that lower room through all the 2x12 joists, across the doorway, and where the stairs are, and then 90 degrees to the right into the room with the main panel. In routing it, it was snaked through holes being used for other larger cables. I have my doubts about being able to route 6/3 through the same path. Many of those holes are going up on an angle. So I probably will wind up drilling new holes in the joists to run the 6/3. Another option presented itself today as far as the exit hole into the garage for the 6/3 feed. I removed the hose biib connection that was in the garage. See photo where drywall needs to be patched. (The hose biib was left there after the garage was put on. That wall was formerly the front of the house.) So that hose biib hole is closer to the main panel by a good 11 feet. The hole size is just under 1 inch. If I route the 6/3 cable through that spot, it would require less drilling of joists. But it would require me to run the cable to the right along the garage wall to get to the new sub panel. I have not decided if I am going to mount it just above the radon pipe in the corner, or the adjacent wall. They are both outside walls of the garage. So the question then is, if I route the 6/3 along the wall, can I enclose it in some leftover schedule 40 pvc conduit I have for protection? It would be about 51 inches off the floor and head to the right about 12 feet. Or do I need a different cable altogether since it is in a damp location? New sub panel Screw down breakers The romex with the horse shoe loop is the current sub panel feed New panel will mount either above the radon pipe exit on the right, or on the adjacent wall. Current sub panel up high to the right of door Former hose biib location. Can route 6/3 through the hole and save a lot of joist hole drilling versus the current 12-2 feed exit location.

>>> What are you trying to accomplish? To know how much the AC portion of our monthly bill is, obviously. hehe Reasons: 1) I-told-you-so factor. We've had unit for a long time and even though it ran like a champ with few problems, it's been very inefficient. We're running 13k kwh/yr (way too high for our home w/out any major appliances like pool, spa, etc). We've been told this by 2 energy auditors, local utility, and other folks. It was much higher until I personally made DIY changes over the years, incld insulation (r45+ avg), duct sealing (14% leakage), sealing the envelope (1000 @50pascals), radiant barrier, cfl bulbs, reflective windows, weather sealing, .... Let's just say the AC is the last item being replaced and it probably should've been the first. Oh, I'm married BTW. 2) Estimate sizing for a new SolarPV system. I'll be over-sized if I use my current kwh usage, since I'm upgrading the AC at the same time as the panels. Need a baseline of old AC to estimate new with x% more efficient unit.... >>> since he is measuring from neutral (or ground?) co The CT is the CB panel placed on L1 hot side just before it connects to the control switch on the dbl-pole breaker. In my (laymen) terms, it's a big blue donut on the wire a few inches from the breaker screw.